Wednesday, December 29, 2010

You Say Potato, I Say Vodka: published 12/02/2010

In the immortal words of The Nanny theme song, it was ”style and flair” that got Fran Drescher the gig as nanny in the Sheffield’s home. So too, with the addition of style and flair to a common house gathering, can get you the gig as all-star host or hostess (hopefully sans the nasal voice) of a kick ass Cocktail Party.

I have been a guest at, and have hosted, some pretty amazing cocktail parties over the years but I have been to some egregious ones too. So, as I was putting a cocktail party together last week for my best girlfriend’s birthday celebration, I found myself outlining the elements and essentials one needs to make (or break) the party. Though a small list: atmosphere, food, cocktail supplies, and guest choice, any one of these items chosen poorly will surely throw your party off kilter and each contains many subtopics for delineation, however there will be one string that can tie them all together and that is the cocktail party theme.

Now don’t go out and buy a bunch of tiki items for a “winter beach party” theme (unless you really want to). When I develop ideas for parties I usually lean toward more abstract elements such as color and texture. One of my Christmas cocktail parties was planned with purple ostrich feathers and gold leaf in mind. Another, “baby cheetah” and no I was not high. Other elements that are a bit more concrete could include: a music genre, artist, song, time period, or even a book. Regardless of the inspiration is the ultimate maintenance of the idea in atmosphere, food and libation making you the ultimate party dominatrix (insert sinister laugh here).

Atmosphere: I could never touch on all elements associated with atmosphere nor should I try here since it is a food column but there are certain things I feel are the easiest to manipulate and are essential for me. I like to have a lot of candles burning with minimal if not any artificial light (except in the kitchen). I personally prefer a more sedate music choice such as jazz or the newer “lounge” mixes. A silent visual on the television can also provide a subtle distraction. I invite a mix of people that I know won’t be awkward and will socialize well. They don’t necessarily all need to be acquainted, as it’s nice to meet new people, but I use my best judgment with respect to individual personality types. Lastly, it is important to specify attire. You do not want a shorts and flip flop clad guest to feel out of place in a room full of cocktail dresses. For the most recent party I played Nina Simone with Metropolis, silent on the television in a tea-light lit apartment full of people dressed “sophisticated”. Easy, simple and fun.

Food: While developing this portion of your cocktail menu it is important to think three tiered. The first being stationary food plate(s) coupled to hors d’oeuvres. Having stationary food allows the guests to nosh on their own accord when they first arrive and start to socialize. The hors d’oeuvres provide an elapsed food experience during the cocktail party time frame. The second is the ease in preparation; you will want most everything prepared in advance so that you can enjoy the party too. Lastly is food volume with respect to time. A cocktail party is not designed to provide a meal but keep in mind that if you plan to throw it at six, guests may not have eaten dinner and be hungrier than at cocktail party with an eight o’clock start time.

For my stationary plate, I usually choose a wedge of brie topped with warmed compote whose ingredients match the season served with a couple roasted heads of garlic (that will make the place smell GREAT by the way) and some toasted crostini and crackers. I chose to make a persimmon and cranberry compote for the most recent cocktail party. Other stationary items I like to make are: steamed heads of artichoke with a house made aioli (mayonnaise); a soup is a nice self serve item (it can be kept warm in a crockpot but be careful of spillage and color of soup with respect to the chosen evening attire!!!); terrines and pates are simple to eat but require a bit more pre-party preparation; lastly, a plate of assorted cured olives or crudités is a very simple stationary item and can be purchased from your local market’s olive and salad bar. However elaborate or simple you choose, the stationary food is now out of your site and mind so that you can focus on the hors d’oeuvres.

I think the most manageable amount of hors d’oeuvres to plan on is three. Selecting choices of meat, vegetable and fish base will cover the gamete of picky guests’ dietary restrictions and gives a nice variety to those that will eat every one. I usually plan to do two “rounds” of each hors d’oeuvres, staggered to last the first third or half of the projected party time frame. Of course there are hors d’oeuvres that can be prepared and assembled hours in advance, but I like to give myself something active to do during the party so I usually have all my items prepared and separated into their respective containers (this is called mise en place in French cooking) so that I can assemble them, quickly, during the party. The last hors d’oeuvres I did were: shrimp and fennel ceviche on endive spears, seared fillet on a crostini with arugula and aioli, and small servings of butternut squash bisque.

Depending on the theme and space, you can choose to tray pass or set out the hors d’oeuvres in strategic places so that all guests can access them from where they are currently located. The later requires more trays with less food on them to cover the whole area of the party where the former can be placed on one tray and distributed to all the guests by someone carrying it around (I usually choose to do this myself but you could always outsource to a willing friend). Of course, all this is assuming you have serving trays. If you do not, many things in the kitchen can suffice including a cutting board or cookie sheet lined with a linen napkin. Be creative and don’t forget to provide cocktail napkins (or a close facsimile thereof).

Cocktail: I prefer to have a signature cocktail served to everyone as they arrive. Guests can bring booze they prefer or even decline the cocktail (how gosh) but the initial distribution is fun and initiates that they are in the hands of a good host. Wine spritzers are a good choice for ease, budget and general (non) intoxication of the guests but are not the most fancy of beverages. I used one at the aforementioned birthday celebration that mixed gewürztraminer, green tea, ginger ale and peach schnapps.

If you have a friend who considers themselves a mixologist, solicit them for cocktail recipe advice. If they have come up with the cocktail recipe, then they may be eager to bartend at the party too. While developing the cocktail flavor, keep your foods in mind giving a profile that will maintain the mood. There are so many artesian Liqueurs on the market now that you may have difficulty choosing. Great Liqueurs I have used often are: Canton (ginger flavor), St. Germain (elderflower infused brandy), Benedictine, Chartreuse and Poma (pomegranate flavor). The nice thing about Liqueurs is that they are not the primary ingredient in a cocktail so, although the bottle might be expensive, you will have quite a bit left over for the next endeavor. Under used mixers such as ginger ale, lemonade, iced rooibos or green tea, or coconut milk can also dress up otherwise boring cocktail.

Once the ingredients are decided, you’ll need ice. ICE, ICE, Baby!!! Did I mention ice? I have been to so many parties, cocktail or not, where the ice has run out or wasn’t even there to begin with. Cocktails need ice, whether provided or brought by guests, so stock the freezer or cooler to the brim, store it in sink; I don’t care how just have lots of ice and then enjoy a libation to help loosen up after all that planning.

So you have the idea, the outfit and the friends but not the digs to supply your ultimate vision. Why not throw a “mock”tail party at a local lounge type establishment that can provide the food, drinks and ambience. I was at the Tractor Room recently enjoying some small plates and cocktails on the patio when this idea struck me. I love the lighting, music and ultimate feel of the whole place and on the corner of the patio is a table that seats four next to a raised table that seats two (with a heat lamp in between) which would accommodate six to eight people comfortably chatting while sitting and standing on a not too busy night.

The Tractor Room has an array of game meat inspired small plates and sharable entrees that can be snacked on while drinking cocktails ordered from a very elaborate menu. When I was there last, my companion and I shared the mushroom and chicken liver pate followed by a duo of pheasant and rabbit sausage skewers. I have enjoyed the pate many times before and was not disappointed this evening. The pate itself is sealed under clarified butter until you pierce the layer with your knife and get to the creamy, rich, mousse-like consistency served in a cast iron bowl. The pate has a few crostinis as a delivery service from plate to mouth and some caramelized shallot and tomato on top but what I enjoy most is the massive quarter loaf of artisan grilled bread that should be ripped apart by hand. Truly inspiring the “breaking of the bread” with friends.

The sausage skewers were equally satisfying, satiating a different degree of my inner foodie: both sausages had a qualifying texture and subtle difference to their gamey taste. I can only describe the rabbit as being more smoky and “dark” in flavor than the pheasant while both were complemented by a creamy gorgonzola cheese and a roasted tomato confit on the plate. The skewers were also accompanied by polenta croutons that gave a contrast in texture to the tender meats and soft cheese-tomato mix.

From past visits, I have always liked their boar stew (can be made with buffalo as well), beef tenderloin skewers, and salmon served on a cedar plank. I think my preferred cocktail has left the menu but they were happy to reproduce it for me on my last visit. It is made with gin, dry vermouth, green chartreuse and a thyme sprig shaken then strained in a martini glass.

After the last cocktail party, Thanksgiving and Christmas around the corner, I probably won’t be planning another party chez moi for a while. But I’m sure I’ll find myself at the Tractor Room with more friends soon for an impromptu “mock”tail party to ease the holiday bustle with amazing cocktails, company, atmosphere and food.


Roasted Garlic

So simple and so delicious. Make this recipe to serve alone on toast points or as a side to a cheese plate. For 12 people:

Cut the tops off of 4 heads of garlic keeping the head intact while removing any excess paper.

Place each head of garlic on an aluminum foil square, drizzle with a tablespoon of oil and 1/8 teaspoon salt.

Wrap seal each aluminum square by simply squeezing together at the top making a little packet of each head.

Place directly on the upper over rack and place a tray on the lower to catch any dippings.

Roast garlic 45 minutes at 450° then let cool.

Serve warm with thinly sliced baguette rounds that have been drizzled with olive oil, sprinkled with salt and toasted in the oven for about 10 minutes.

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