Before Mastering the Art of French Cooking, food terms such as coq au vin, boeuf bourguignon, mirepoix, pot-au-feu, or even crème brulee were as esoteric to Americans as the column title this week. After its boom in popularity for nearly four decades, classic French cuisine, and with it fine dining, have again fallen out of foodie vogue. Now appreciated by those with a specific interest and knowledge, newer generations stray away from establishments offering fantastic service and painstakingly rich-delicious fare. Quelle Dommage!
Walking south on 5Th after a cocktail at Number One on Fifth Avenue, watching the buildings slowly grow taller as downtown approached, my date and I found ourselves at Hexagone. Referring to the six sided shape of France whose surface area can be calculated using the formula in this column’s title, Hexagone presents an atmosphere and French fare that is both elegant and comforting: Fine dining service, rich pan sauces, and classic preparations presented beautifully on white plates against tables clad in starched white linen. Although not for everyone, I continually hear from friends that they miss the fine dining that our neighborhood(s) once possessed.
Located in Banker’s Hill, on the corner of 5th and Laurel, Hexagone’s “L” shaped layout provides guests two separate areas to enjoy. Dining in the immediate front room would feel a bit more personable with the bar and table proximity while the length that runs down the west side of 5th is more intimate and out of the way. This section seems the better choice for a large party to reserve for a function but an even better choice for a pair of lovers to enjoy dinner together if no large parties are around.
Sitting adjacent to one another on the banquet of a corner table, we began with bubbles. It struck me funny that I noticed how the Champagne matched the golden-beige window treatments that framed the windows facing the busy street. We enjoyed the bubbly and the conversation with our waiter as we discussed and decided on dinner.
To start, I had to have the veal sweetbreads. It is so infrequent to find them on any menu; I order them whenever I see them. These were served on a veal demi glaze topped with a very tender chantrelle and cremini mushroom ragout. The crisp exterior of the sweetbread hid the smooth texture of the meat beneath and was an amazing combo with the textured mushrooms and intense pan sauce. A welcome reprieve from the abundance of sissy starters that have gained foodie sex appeal but I guess there is always a time a place for everything.
The second course was a good buffer between the rich starter and the entrees. My date ordered a spinach salad with grilled shrimp, tomato, and hearts of palm. I felt it necessary to try the French onion soup, well, because I was in a French establishment. It was sweet and very cheesy as it usually is. Both were good but overshadowed by the flanking courses.
Our main courses were really well played. I ordered the special: A filet, rare, on a truffle demi, served with brussel sprout leaf and haricot vert salad, and roasted fingerling potatoes. My dinner companion had the lamb shank nicoise on a white bean cassoulet. I did not find out where they source their meats but both were incredible; the lamb in its flavor and the filet with its texture. I especially liked the side of brussel sprout leaf and haricot vert. The blanched leaves of a brussel sprout are a very uncommon accompaniment yet gave a great texture and bright flavor contrast to the otherwise deep demi glaze.
Our bubbly lasted through until the entrees where we both had a glass of Chateauneuf-du-Pape suggested by the bartendress. Stuffed, we did not choose to enjoy desert which is now to my chagrin. I have been dying to get back to Hexagone and try their Tarte Tatin (which is basically a caramelized upside down cake) if only to round out my experience at the restaurant.
Though no longer having much sex appeal to the common diner, yet infused in almost all Western food encounters, the tradition of French cuisine and the essentials of fine dinning will continue to be omnipresent in our American cuisine. So, after being pampered by the service and satiated with the food, I would say that Hexagone has the right equation.
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