“Theese is Francisco, I huv caught the roooster”. In my Imaginarium, I hear these words as a cryptic incantation for elaborate spy stories’ segue. In the real world, it was a voice mail to a good friend of mine I call “poodle”. Poodle lives in Golden Hill and has had a rooster and chickens running feral in his backyard for months. Until he sought the assistance of an immigrant associate, who left the aforementioned voice message, the clucks, poops and otherwise annoying occurrences that the fowl manifested had bothered his solace.
These chickens were once domesticated, escaped, and have learned to survive wild in our tumultuous climate. I believe that the practice of urban chicken farming is far more prevalent than most would think in the San Diego area. By my understanding of the zoning laws, one household may keep up to eight chickens (no roosters) in an urban setting as long as the coop and all other accoutrements are kept outside of 50’ from residences’ abodes. In my research, a woman called Shelly Stewart is doing it in University Heights and has a video on the youtube’s.
So why am I talking about keeping chickens? Aside from an amazing feat of sustainable urban living, they lay eggs. A package of indisputable nutrition and, ultimately, life. The egg of any species is an amazing packet of life fuel and acts as a philosophical tool to mankind; was it the chicken or the egg? The mother life of earth is considered the egg and there are many analogies between life sustenance and the origin of the egg as a symbol for creation.
For the chef, the egg is an amazing tool because of its whole ubiquity and individual compartmentalization with respect to use: A whole egg is coddled then placed on toast for my breakfast; while yolks and whites are easily separated by hand, due to the membranes that bind them together. Each component can be used independently in numerous kitchen recipes or combined in an almost infinitesimal amount of variations and ratios. The yolk alone (which is used in the included recipe) is paramount in pastry creams, ice creams and hollandaise-like sauces while the whites are reserved for meringues, soufflés and an otherwise lower cholesterol breakfasts.
Keeping your ears perked while enjoying your next breakfast or pastrycream, perhaps you’ll hear the cockle-doodle-do of an unzoned rooster from a guerilla chicken farmer right next door. Unlike my Poodle, let the sound bring joy, instead of disdain, that sustainable-urban farming is so close at hand.
Fresh berry tart with pastry cream:
I usually reserve this recipe for my annual Easter Brunch, but present it here because it fits the bill so well. You will want to use the freshest berries in the market.
For the pastry cream:
Over low heat in a saucepan bring 3 cups milk to just under the boiling point (scalded).
In a kitchen stand mixer, fitted with the paddle attachment, beat 12 large eggs on low speed until the membranes have been broken. Add in 1 ½ cups sugar and beat on med-high until thick and pale yellow (about 4 minutes). Reduce speed to low and add in ¼ cup cornstarch until combined. Keeping the speed on low, slowly add in (temper) the scalded milk. While the kitchen appliance stirs, rinse and clean the saucepan. Return the tempered yolk mixture to the saucepan and heat over medium low. Constantly stir the mixture with a wooden spoon, scraping the bottom diligently until the mixture separates. DO NOT PANIC, swap to a whisk and beat the mixture until it comes to a thick-homogenous “pudding” consistency (about 2 minutes). Remove from the heat, stir in 2 tablespoons unsalted butter, 2 teaspoons cognac, teaspoon pure vanilla extract and 2 tablespoons heavy cream. Push through a fine mesh sieve and chill.
For the tart shell:
I used to make my own pate brisee but have found that store bought raw pastry dough works just as well and leaves the kitchen without a fine layer of flour. I use a tart pan, with a removable bottom, that is approximately 13.5”l. x 4”w. This recipe will make two of these tarts.
Preheat the oven to 375°.
On a floured surface, roll out the dough to fit in the pan. The dough should fit about 1/4” above the rim without stretching or it will shrink. Butter some aluminum foil and fit it directly on the dough in the pan. Fill the aluminum with dried beans or rice to weight down the dough. Bake for 10 minutes. Remove the aluminum weight and prick the bottom of the pastry shell over with a fork. Return to the oven and bake an additional 15 minutes or until golden brown. Allow to cool completely before removing the finished pastry shell from the pan.
Cut 2 pints of strawberries in half or in quarter depending on their size.
Fill the tart shells with the pastry cream and line the perimeter with the cut strawberries. Fill in the inside with blueberries then top the center with bright red raspberries.
Thursday, February 17, 2011
A new website
The San Diego LGBT Weekly has launched its new website. Check it, and me, out at:
http://lgbtweekly.com/category/arts/bobbyr/
http://lgbtweekly.com/category/arts/bobbyr/
Friday, February 11, 2011
A Bitter-Sweet Valentine's Day: published 02/10/2011
As arbitrary as the observance of Valentine’s Day is associated with Chauncer’s Parliament of Foules, so too is an amount of bitterness I have in participating in the holiday for the sake of another’s liking. I should not allow something so silly to consume me but with that said, in any relationship whether amorous or platonic, there must be concessions. I will be sweet to my lover by cooking us a Valentine’s Day dinner but get my own satisfaction by using bitter ingredients in the cache.
Of the five perceivable taste sensations, the taste of bitter is interesting to me because, as well as producing a certain satisfaction to some people’s taste buds as is, in some cases it can be transformed into the sweet by the application of certain cooking methods. Onions are caramelized by slowly sautéing over low heat, eggplant’s bitterness is softened by soaking it in milk and radicchio is transformed to a marvelous bitter-sweet side after is has been slowly roasted.
Radicchio is one of my favorite bitter vegetables for its brilliant color. I like it too because it’s another vegetable that is underused simply because people don’t know what to do with it, which seems to be a recurring theme in these columns. In the recipe included, the radicchio will lend a beautiful red-purple color to the dish that will look nice for the Valentine’s Day theme. Radicchio can also be halved and grilled followed up with a sprinkle of Gorgonzola or braised in chicken stock as a simple addition to a weeknight dinner.
Whatever vegetable you may be confronting in the market, whether bitter and foreign or sweet and familiar, be open to experimentation. It is a good way to increase your diet and overall kitchen know how. So now I take the route of the eggplant, fixing myself a hot bath with a half gallon of milk and some rose petals. Hopefully it will soften the skin and my otherwise alkaline disposition before it is time to cook dinner for my sweetie.
Recipe:
Grapefruit and Miso glazed salmon on Jasmine-tea rice with roasted radicchio:
The recipe here will serve six, so unless you’re having guests over for Valentines Day reduce the fish and radicchio portion of the recipe. The rice recipe is difficult to reduce with respect to the liquid volume so plan on having left overs to turn into sticky rice, rice balls or whatever your bitter heart desires. The radicchio can be baked on the lower third of the oven and can stay in while broiling the fish to keep hot. The tannins in the Jasmine tea present a slightly bitter flavor also, that is nicely offset by the addition of sweetened coconut milk.
For the Radicchio:
Quarter three large heads of radicchio, leaving the base intact, and place into a bowl of cold salted water for 30 minutes.
Dry off the radicchio and toss the quarters in olive oil.
Gently separate the leaves and sprinkle shredded mozzarella in between.
Drizzle balsamic vinegar on and in the crevices of the radicchio quarters.
Bake for 30 minutes at 375° (or until otherwise softened).
For the Fish:
Whisk together:
1/3 c. yellow miso (red works too)
2 Tb grapefruit juice
1 Tb mirin (Japanese rice wine)
2 Tsp. soy sauce
1 Tsp dark brown sugar
1 Tsp grapefruit zest
Line a baking sheet with aluminum foil and preheat the broiler.
Coat the baking sheet with some olive oil and place six 6 oz. salmon filets on the sheet, skin side down leaving room between the filets.
Paint the miso mixture evenly onto the tops of all fish filets. Place the fish 6” under the broiler. Allow the fish to broil undil the tops have become golden and caramelized (about 5 minutes). Loosely cover the fish with foil and continue to broil an additional 5 minutes until cooked through.
For the Rice:
Bring to a boil 1 ¾ c. water. Steap a jasmine tea bag in the boiling water for three minutes. Remove the bag, reduce water to a simmer and add 1 ¼ c. jasmine or long grain rice. Cover and cook over low heat until the rice is tender (about 15 minutes). Allow the rice to rest for an additional 15 minutes. Add in ¼ sweetened coconut milk and fluff with a fork.
Balsamic vinegar reduction:
In a small sauté pan reduce ½ c. balsamic vinegar and 2 Tb sugar to ¼ c.
Be sure to warm your plates in the oven for a few minutes. Serve the salmon on top of the rice with the radicchio wedges to the side. Finish off the plate with a drizzled of balsamic vinegar reduction.
Of the five perceivable taste sensations, the taste of bitter is interesting to me because, as well as producing a certain satisfaction to some people’s taste buds as is, in some cases it can be transformed into the sweet by the application of certain cooking methods. Onions are caramelized by slowly sautéing over low heat, eggplant’s bitterness is softened by soaking it in milk and radicchio is transformed to a marvelous bitter-sweet side after is has been slowly roasted.
Radicchio is one of my favorite bitter vegetables for its brilliant color. I like it too because it’s another vegetable that is underused simply because people don’t know what to do with it, which seems to be a recurring theme in these columns. In the recipe included, the radicchio will lend a beautiful red-purple color to the dish that will look nice for the Valentine’s Day theme. Radicchio can also be halved and grilled followed up with a sprinkle of Gorgonzola or braised in chicken stock as a simple addition to a weeknight dinner.
Whatever vegetable you may be confronting in the market, whether bitter and foreign or sweet and familiar, be open to experimentation. It is a good way to increase your diet and overall kitchen know how. So now I take the route of the eggplant, fixing myself a hot bath with a half gallon of milk and some rose petals. Hopefully it will soften the skin and my otherwise alkaline disposition before it is time to cook dinner for my sweetie.
Recipe:
Grapefruit and Miso glazed salmon on Jasmine-tea rice with roasted radicchio:
The recipe here will serve six, so unless you’re having guests over for Valentines Day reduce the fish and radicchio portion of the recipe. The rice recipe is difficult to reduce with respect to the liquid volume so plan on having left overs to turn into sticky rice, rice balls or whatever your bitter heart desires. The radicchio can be baked on the lower third of the oven and can stay in while broiling the fish to keep hot. The tannins in the Jasmine tea present a slightly bitter flavor also, that is nicely offset by the addition of sweetened coconut milk.
For the Radicchio:
Quarter three large heads of radicchio, leaving the base intact, and place into a bowl of cold salted water for 30 minutes.
Dry off the radicchio and toss the quarters in olive oil.
Gently separate the leaves and sprinkle shredded mozzarella in between.
Drizzle balsamic vinegar on and in the crevices of the radicchio quarters.
Bake for 30 minutes at 375° (or until otherwise softened).
For the Fish:
Whisk together:
1/3 c. yellow miso (red works too)
2 Tb grapefruit juice
1 Tb mirin (Japanese rice wine)
2 Tsp. soy sauce
1 Tsp dark brown sugar
1 Tsp grapefruit zest
Line a baking sheet with aluminum foil and preheat the broiler.
Coat the baking sheet with some olive oil and place six 6 oz. salmon filets on the sheet, skin side down leaving room between the filets.
Paint the miso mixture evenly onto the tops of all fish filets. Place the fish 6” under the broiler. Allow the fish to broil undil the tops have become golden and caramelized (about 5 minutes). Loosely cover the fish with foil and continue to broil an additional 5 minutes until cooked through.
For the Rice:
Bring to a boil 1 ¾ c. water. Steap a jasmine tea bag in the boiling water for three minutes. Remove the bag, reduce water to a simmer and add 1 ¼ c. jasmine or long grain rice. Cover and cook over low heat until the rice is tender (about 15 minutes). Allow the rice to rest for an additional 15 minutes. Add in ¼ sweetened coconut milk and fluff with a fork.
Balsamic vinegar reduction:
In a small sauté pan reduce ½ c. balsamic vinegar and 2 Tb sugar to ¼ c.
Be sure to warm your plates in the oven for a few minutes. Serve the salmon on top of the rice with the radicchio wedges to the side. Finish off the plate with a drizzled of balsamic vinegar reduction.
Wednesday, February 9, 2011
Tasting the Intangible: published 02/03/2011
Some cultures perform(ed) ritual cannibalism believing that the consumption of the dead would bestow the vitality associated with the organs eaten. I do not suggest gnawing on your casketed uncle’s brain to gain his keen stock market sense but here, describe looking toward your food for the soul of the cook.
I had just gotten off the BART at Powell station in Union Square, San Franscisco; starving and looking for a quick lunch that would be delicious but not take a chunk out of my wallet. Being unfamiliar with the city, I turned to the Yelp application on my iPhone for help. Searching through restaurants filtered by the least expensive, I was drawn to a place called Crepe o Chocolat, holding four stars based off of 238 reviews (my overall opinion of yelp will be addressed in a future column).
The woman behind the counter was exotic looking with a mild French accent. She was abrupt with the answers to my questions and I would have left if I was not otherwise famished. Looking behind her, I noticed a handwritten chalk board sign reading “arugula salad: $7.00” and ordered the seemingly simple salad. Sylvie, I found out later she is called, turned her back to me and in the fashion of the Muppets’ sweetish chef, tossed some ingredients in a bowl with gesticulation. She turned to present me an overstuffed cardboard to go container and fork, took my seven dollars and said nothing.
I walked outside the cafe, opened the container and almost fell out of the chair when I saw heaping amounts of scarlet quinoa mixed with the bright arugula. I had low expectations for the containers’ contents based on Sylvie’s curt disposition but seeing this beautiful display, my mood quickly changed. I have always loved the grain as a substitution for rice or cous cous and seeing it before me put an immediate smile on my face.
Quinoa, pronounced “keen-wah”, is known for its high protein and low carbohydrate content. It also contains all eight essential amino acids humans do not produce. With these characteristics, it has been known as a “super-grain” or as “the mother grain” to the Incas who were first to discover its benefits.
Working my way deeper into the salad I was presented with more hidden treasures of braised brussel sprouts, roasted baby eggplant and a thick hummus like dressing. Each bite made me happier than the last as the flavors and textures danced in my mouth. I don’t know what spices she used or techniques were applied to the ingredients but what I could tell was there was a bit of her culinary spirit present in each bite; that I was eating a tradition special to her which left me with a feeling in my heart that is very hard to describe.
I look back at Sylvie’s rough customer service skills as a nuance unique to her. It made the lunch more special thinking that she was probably just as quirky as I am and what a relief I did not have to take a bite out of her arm to be satiated with her culinary skills. I hope that you will or have had a truly moving Foodie experience such as mine; instilling an intangible flavor to your heart, mind and soul.
Basic quinoa preparation:
Rinse thoroughly 1c. quinoa.
In deep large skillet or kitchen pan heat 1Tb olive oil over a medium heat until shimmering. Add in Tb minced garlic and sauté until just golden. Add in the rinsed quinoa stirring constantly until the grains are slightly browned and separated. Stir in 2c. chicken (or vegetable) stock and bring to a boil over high heat. Once boiling, reduce the heat so the liquid is at a simmer and continue to cook until the liquid has been absorbed (about 15 minutes). Fluff the quinoa with a fork and salt to taste.
Two-step variation for a dryer, fluffier quinoa:
(I think this preparation is best with scarlet quinoa that looks fine without the browning step that is included in the above preparation)
Rinse thoroughly 1 ½ c. quinoa rubbing through to separate the grains. Do this with the quinoa in a sieve that is set in a bowl of cold water. Rinse the quinoa in a couple changes of the water for a thorough cleanse and separation.
Boil the quinoa in a 4 qt. sauce pan with enough water to cover the grains for 10 minutes. Drain the quinoa in a sieve and rinse with cold water. In the same sauce pan, bring about 2” of water to a boil. Set the sieve containing the quinoa onto the saucepan being sure the water does not touch the bottom (if you do not have a sieve that sets on the top of the sauce pan, a cheese lined colander will work also). Cover the quinoa with a thin kitchen towel and lid being sure the edges of the towel are not hanging over so they won’t burn. Steam the quinoa for 10-15 minutes until fluffy. Remove the quinoa to a bowl and toss with olive oil and whatever other herbs or spices you would like. Quinoa can be served hot as a side, or chilled and mixed with a salad or made into a cold dish as you would a pasta pesto &c…
I had just gotten off the BART at Powell station in Union Square, San Franscisco; starving and looking for a quick lunch that would be delicious but not take a chunk out of my wallet. Being unfamiliar with the city, I turned to the Yelp application on my iPhone for help. Searching through restaurants filtered by the least expensive, I was drawn to a place called Crepe o Chocolat, holding four stars based off of 238 reviews (my overall opinion of yelp will be addressed in a future column).
The woman behind the counter was exotic looking with a mild French accent. She was abrupt with the answers to my questions and I would have left if I was not otherwise famished. Looking behind her, I noticed a handwritten chalk board sign reading “arugula salad: $7.00” and ordered the seemingly simple salad. Sylvie, I found out later she is called, turned her back to me and in the fashion of the Muppets’ sweetish chef, tossed some ingredients in a bowl with gesticulation. She turned to present me an overstuffed cardboard to go container and fork, took my seven dollars and said nothing.
I walked outside the cafe, opened the container and almost fell out of the chair when I saw heaping amounts of scarlet quinoa mixed with the bright arugula. I had low expectations for the containers’ contents based on Sylvie’s curt disposition but seeing this beautiful display, my mood quickly changed. I have always loved the grain as a substitution for rice or cous cous and seeing it before me put an immediate smile on my face.
Quinoa, pronounced “keen-wah”, is known for its high protein and low carbohydrate content. It also contains all eight essential amino acids humans do not produce. With these characteristics, it has been known as a “super-grain” or as “the mother grain” to the Incas who were first to discover its benefits.
Working my way deeper into the salad I was presented with more hidden treasures of braised brussel sprouts, roasted baby eggplant and a thick hummus like dressing. Each bite made me happier than the last as the flavors and textures danced in my mouth. I don’t know what spices she used or techniques were applied to the ingredients but what I could tell was there was a bit of her culinary spirit present in each bite; that I was eating a tradition special to her which left me with a feeling in my heart that is very hard to describe.
I look back at Sylvie’s rough customer service skills as a nuance unique to her. It made the lunch more special thinking that she was probably just as quirky as I am and what a relief I did not have to take a bite out of her arm to be satiated with her culinary skills. I hope that you will or have had a truly moving Foodie experience such as mine; instilling an intangible flavor to your heart, mind and soul.
Basic quinoa preparation:
Rinse thoroughly 1c. quinoa.
In deep large skillet or kitchen pan heat 1Tb olive oil over a medium heat until shimmering. Add in Tb minced garlic and sauté until just golden. Add in the rinsed quinoa stirring constantly until the grains are slightly browned and separated. Stir in 2c. chicken (or vegetable) stock and bring to a boil over high heat. Once boiling, reduce the heat so the liquid is at a simmer and continue to cook until the liquid has been absorbed (about 15 minutes). Fluff the quinoa with a fork and salt to taste.
Two-step variation for a dryer, fluffier quinoa:
(I think this preparation is best with scarlet quinoa that looks fine without the browning step that is included in the above preparation)
Rinse thoroughly 1 ½ c. quinoa rubbing through to separate the grains. Do this with the quinoa in a sieve that is set in a bowl of cold water. Rinse the quinoa in a couple changes of the water for a thorough cleanse and separation.
Boil the quinoa in a 4 qt. sauce pan with enough water to cover the grains for 10 minutes. Drain the quinoa in a sieve and rinse with cold water. In the same sauce pan, bring about 2” of water to a boil. Set the sieve containing the quinoa onto the saucepan being sure the water does not touch the bottom (if you do not have a sieve that sets on the top of the sauce pan, a cheese lined colander will work also). Cover the quinoa with a thin kitchen towel and lid being sure the edges of the towel are not hanging over so they won’t burn. Steam the quinoa for 10-15 minutes until fluffy. Remove the quinoa to a bowl and toss with olive oil and whatever other herbs or spices you would like. Quinoa can be served hot as a side, or chilled and mixed with a salad or made into a cold dish as you would a pasta pesto &c…
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