Cukes not Nukes

In the next few weeks, if not already, we will see the beginning of the cucumber season that will last us through the summer. Being common to almost all Americans, the cucumber probably does not receive the recognition it deserves and falls easily to the background. Here, I look at different uses for the vegetable aside from placing rounds over the eyes to reduce heavy bags or the cold cucumber salad.

Cucumbers, or cukes as my grandmother called them, are part of the gourd family which is funny to me because they are softer skinned with such a soft flesh. For me, the cukes’ high water content and subtle melon flavor are the contributions that make them so refreshing. Aside from pickling and eating raw in salads or plain with some salt at the taco shop, I like to juice cucumbers. The water is then used in many applications such as cocktails and lemonade, emulsions for a fancy summer dish, a braising liquid for fish or used to make sorbet.

To juice a cucumber, simply peel off the skin, cut it into rounds and puree using an immersion blender or counter blender. The pulp and liquid once sieved will produce approximately ½ cup of juice for each common cucumber. An English cucumber, which is longer with less seeds, will give slightly more.

My two favorite cocktail recipes using cucumber are both gin based but vodka could easily be substituted. The first: I infuse a bottle of gin with cucumber flavor by soaking peeled, chopped cukes in the gin for three days then strain. Pour the gin over ice with the juice of half a lime and some simple syrup. I shake the heck out of it then top it off with club soda. I assure even someone who doesn’t like gin will fall in love. The second gives a stronger punch: I make a traditional gin martini using dry vermouth and Hendrick’s gin, which already has notes of cucumber, and muddle two cucumber rounds in the shaker with a very small sprig of thyme. After shaken and strained into a chilled martini glass, I garnish with a floating sprig of thyme and a cucumber round cut to fit on the side of the glass.

It may seem counter intuitive, and a little pretentious, to use cucumber water in a hot dish but used as an emulsion or cooking liquid, the cucumber water adds its flare to a nice fish dinner (recipe included) and wows your guests. I found another hot dish that uses the flesh of the cucumber written by James Beard in his book Beard on Food. He suggests peeling then cutting the cucumber into matchsticks (julienne cut), squeezing the water out of them with a kitchen towel and steaming them in butter with tarragon and lemon juice. I have tried this process a couple times which is very mild in flavor and best served as a starter garnished with sorbet.

The sorbet I make with the cucumber water is a throw back to Bath and Body Works’ line of cucumber and melon scented products. First make a simple syrup using ½ cup sugar, ½ cup light corn syrup and ¾ cup water. Once chilled; mix the simple syrup with 1½ cups cucumber water and ½ cup midori then apply to the ice cream maker per the manufacturer’s instructions. Once hardened, the sorbet is great on its own or as a garnish for a gazpacho. I have also seen it served with peppered, seared ahi called “Fire and Ice”.

We have looked at cucumber water used in drinks, as dessert and a savory main dish. I hope these examples have opened your mind to a new realm of cuke use and you will use the many days of spring and summer ahead to experiment. I know that I will keep myself refreshed with a cucumber cocktail and busy in the kitchen looking for other ways to utilize the many varieties I will find at the farmers’ market.

Pan Braised Hallibut with cucumber water emulsion:

In a small sauce pan sauté 2 tablespoons shallot until translucent.

Add in 2 teaspoons white pepper, 1 cup cucumber water, 1 cup chicken stock,. Bring to a simmer and reduce the volume by half. Remove from heat and swirl in 8 tablespoons of cubed butter.

Once the butter has melted, transfer the liquid to a blender, add in ¼ cup chicken stalk and blend to emulsify, about 30 seconds. Season to taste with salt and toss in 2 tablespoons chopped tarragon, mix with a spoon and set aside.

Start with 4 halibut steaks about 1 ½ inches thick. Pat dry and sprinkle with salt and pepper. In a heavy, oven-proof skillet, heat one tablespoon of vegetable oil until just before it smokes. Add the fish and allow to brown over the high heat for about 2-3 minutes. Turn the fish over and add in enough of the cucumber emulsion to cover the bottom third of the fish. Transfer the pan to the middle rack of a 400° oven and continue to cook for an additional 5 minutes. The fish is done when the flesh is opaque all the way through.

Serve the fish over risotto, or lentils in a shallow bowl with some of the cucumber emulsion, fresh chopped tomato and grilled asparagus. Garnish the top of the fish with a tarragon sprig and enjoy.

No Spring Chicken

Last weekend was my birthday and with it the reminder that I am not getting any younger. Reflecting on life and age, I looked to staples I have in my life such as family, friends and my love of cooking. I also thought of culinary staples for the column and decided that roasting a chicken was a good process to describe as an essential for any home cook becoming more August. So using the “spring chicken”, which I am not, let’s roast a bird.

The easiest method to roast a chicken is to use salt, herbs and butter as a rub. I use about pound of butter (which is greater than most recipes but yields a delicious bird) brought to room temperature mixed with lots of salt, dried thyme, pepper and lemon zest. You can incorporate any herbs and spices you like for a more specific flavor profile but I think simple is best. The butter mixture is used as a rub to massage the entire chicken; under the skin, over the skin and in the cavity of the bird. But before we can give the chicken a nice butter massage, we must first prepare it for use.

This is the most daunting aspect of a roast chicken but goes quickly after some practice. Begin with a completely clean and clear, non-porous, work surface close to the sink. Open the chicken package from the drumstick side in the sink. Turn on the cold water to a medium stream so it does not splash around the outer sink area. I have larger hands so grab the chicken by both drumsticks with one hand while I pull away the packaging with the other. Remove the giblet package from the chicken with your free hand and begin to rinse the bird thoroughly inside and out. Use paper towels to pat down the chicken with your free hand using as many as necessary to completely dry the bird inside and out then place on the work surface.

Although not necessary, I like to smooth butter underneath the skin as well as on top of it which ensures very moist meat. Being careful not to tear the skin, gently insert the handle of a spoon (or your finger) underneath the skin of the breast at the neck end and slide it back and forth breaking the seal between the two. Slide a tablespoon of the softened butter mixture under the skin of each side of the breast and massage it evenly under the surface. Repeat the process with the chicken thighs and legs using ½ tablespoon beneath the skin. The remaining butter can now be massaged on the outer surface of the bird thoroughly and evenly.

The last step in preparing the bird is stuffing and trussing. I recently watched an episode of the French Chef with Julia Child where she binds the bird like something out of an S&M movie then spanks it on the ass (no joke) which I assure you is unnecessary. First stuff the cavity of the bird with roughly chopped aromatics such as carrot, onion and celery. Take the small wing tips and bend them so that they are tucked underneath the neck end of the bird. Lastly, using kitchen twine, tie the legs as taunt to the body as possible crossing them at the ankle like a lady. You can spank the bird now if you wish but will not add anything to the flavor.

Once prepared for the oven, roasting the bird is easy. There are a couple choice methods I use depending on the size and my mood: The chicken can be placed on a flat rack in a shallow pan and cooked with little basting and one 180 degree turn half way through cooking. If you do not have a flat rack, a single layer of thickly chopped carrots and onions tossed in oil will do the trick. For a more evenly browned bird, place it in a V-rack and roast it in a deeper pan. I start with the bird on its side and rotate it 3 times until it is breast side up where it will finish roasting, registering an internal leg temperature of 175 degrees when done. If you find the bird to be browning too quickly, a loose aluminum foil tent will protect the skin as the meat finishes off.

Each year my birthday gets easier and easier to manage as will the roasted chicken with practice; yielding a wonderfully browned specimen speckled with spots of seasoning and juicy, flavorful meat. Perhaps I’ll start to massage myself with butter to secure my suppleness after being bound and smacked on the bottom to celebrate the next year of my life. So with Julia Child in mind, I bit you farewell with, “Bon Appetit”.

Simple Roasted Chicken:

Preheat the oven to 425 degrees and move the top rack to center.

Aside mix together:

6 tablespoons softened butter and one teaspoon each of:

kosher salt

freshly ground black pepper

dried thyme

lemon zest

Prepare one whole chicken (4-5 pounds) as described in the column, being sure any excess fat is pulled away from the neck cavity. Under each side of the breast skin, smooth one tablespoon of the butter mixture. Smooth ½ tablespoon under each thigh and leg. Sprinkle the chicken with a scant amount of salt and pepper, inside and out, and rub down with the remaining butter mixture Fill the cavity of the bird with unpeeled onion quarters, some thickly chopped carrot, two (optional) lemon quarter and some small celery stalks. Truss and place on a flat rack (or layer of thick cut onions and carrot) in a roasting pan and roast for 45 minutes. Rotate the pan 180 degrees and continue to roast for an additional 30-45 minutes periodically checking the browning of the skin. If the skin is becoming too brown, use a piece of tinfoil to loosely cover the breast cinching it to the sides of the roasting pan so it is not in direct contact.

Take the temperature of the chicken in the thickest part of the thigh after the last 30 minutes. The chicken is done when the temperature registers 175 degrees (cooking times will have to be adjusted for larger or smaller birds). Allow the chicken to sit covered for 15. The internal temperature will rise 10 degrease out of the oven and the juices will evenly redistribute through the meat.

Carve the chicken and serve with your favorite starch and vegetable. I prefer roasted potatoes that I throw in the oven with the bird the last 30 minutes and some pan sautéed zucchinis.

Green Thumbs are in Fashion this Spring: published 03/17/2011

Form vs. Function seems to be an omnipresent choice in my world: shoes, clothes, kitchen organization…vegetable planting. With spring next week, I will face a new wealth of these choices; a whole quarter of my closet to choose from again, spring cleaning, organizing and what kind of vegetables I will grow. Of all these choices, I have come to find that vegetable planting (like Ikea) can be a perfect marriage of both form and function.

I did not always think that the last statement could be true. In Massachusetts, we always had a vegetable garden but it wasn’t always the prettiest thing to look at. It wasn’t until the Spring of 2009, when I initiated an urban raised-bed garden on the back patio of California Cuisine, that I became painstakingly aware that an edible garden could (and in this case HAD TO) be aesthetically pleasing. We called it the “Avant-Garden” and by careful planning, diligent maintenance and 300+ ft³ of soil grew over 20 different types of vegetables.

Not everyone will have the space, time or desire to command such an intensive feat and I’d prefer you forego the leggy-herb garden and topsy-turvy upside down planters of past seasons. Instead, this year, try planting some simple, ornamental, edible, and container friendly vegetables combined for beauty while producing edible goods. The components are simple: a well designed container, soil, sunlight, plants and minimal care.

I prefer square containers made of redwood (plastic works too), at least 12” x 12” x 12” (any dimension larger is fine) having adequate drainage holes. One in the middle does not cut it; they need to be evenly spaced over the bottom surface area. Line the bottom with chicken wire purchased and cut to size at the hardware store. Fill the bottom about 2” deep with river rocks that will facilitate drainage. Lastly, fill the pot with pre-fertilized “vegetable” potting soil to just beneath the rim. These types of containers are ideal for larger, fruit bearing vegetables such as eggplants and tomatoes.

I go to the Hillcrest Farmer’s market to buy starter vegetables for planting. The growers are very knowledgeable and will tell you precisely what kind of light and soil the plants need. I prefer to grow vegetables that require full to medium sun to make my life easier. For small-apartment container gardening, I find that the most visually stimulating and easy to maintain are a combination of Malabar spinach, Asian varieties of eggplant and red-chard.

Malabar spinach is not part of the spinach family but named so because of its similar taste and appearance. It produces beautiful deep purple berries during its life cycle and instead of growing close to the soil like traditional spinach, Malabar spinach grows as thin red vines and works very well up trellises. With time, the spinach will fill a square trellis (plant 3-4 equally spaced in the container described) and act as an edible border for a street or condo facing balcony. Sauté the Malabar spinach as you would any other dark green or serve raw in salads.

Asian varieties of eggplants are good patio plants not only because they don’t generally grow over 3’ tall but continually produce both flowers and small fruit throughout the season. Choosing multiple heirloom varieties for several different containers provides the growing space color diversity without the hassle of different growing conditions. Be sure to pick the fruit when it has reached three-quarters its full maturity to encourage new flower growth and provide you with the main ingredient for the included recipe.

Red-chard can be planted alone in a slightly smaller container than the one described or as a border for either the Malabar spinach or eggplant. The chard will use the top soil while the larger plants root deeper, called underplanting, utilizing all the soils nutrients. The red-chard produces very dramatic red stalks against its dark green leaves filling in the perimeter of the planting container in a very short period of time. Once mature (about 10” long leaves) cut the chard 4” above the soil and it will grow back multiple times throughout the growing season.

As with all plants, they will only grow as well as they are provided for, please do not neglect watering them. In the heat of the summer, patio vegetable plants will probably need to be watered daily before the heat of the noon sun. Stick your finger deep down there. If the soil is dry more than 4” below the surface, its time to spray ‘em down. Water the soil until it is completely saturated and water is draining from the bottom holes.

While choosing to till the soil, design an edible patio garden or wear white shoes before Memorial Day let’s keep in mind the balance of form and function. Looking for an equilibrium between the two in our lives and, perhaps, in ourselves during this time of new growth and emerging life.

Pan seared baby eggplant with herbed goat cheese spread:

With the mention of California Cuisine (1987-2009), I was reminded of this dish they served when I first started working there, under Chef Chris Walsh, in 1999. This is a simple derivation from memory to show off the true flavor of the small, sweeter eggplant.

For the eggplant:

Pre-heat an iron skillet over high heat.

Leaving the stem intact: carefully slice a baby eggplant lengthwise in 1/4” slices. Salt, pepper and oil the fruit being sure to coat all the exposed surfaces without breaking the stem. Fan out the eggplant and apply to the grill or skillet. Cook until the eggplant is darkened to golden brown. Turn the eggplant and cook until the same coloring is achieved. Set aside on an oven proof sheet and repeat with as many eggplants as desired. Transfer the eggplants to a 350° oven and warm until the fruit reaches the desired softness and temperature (approximately 5 minutes). Serve a whole eggplant per person with one heaping tablespoon of herbed goat cheese spread.

For the goat cheese spread (serves 6):

In a small bowl mix together:

5 ounces softened goat cheese at room temperature

2 teaspoons fresh chopped thyme

½ teaspoon lemon zest

1 garlic clove finely minced

2 teaspoons olive oil

¼ teaspoon salt (or to taste)

¼ teaspoon pepper

Everything is going to pot: published 03/10/2011

The essence of a one-pot meal is that it is economical, dishwasher friendly and (if the recipe is right) brings people together. In this time of a subdued economy, the one-pot meal has brought my household savings and communion over the stove; both of which provide relief from what can otherwise be an unnerving time. So, with catharsis at stake, the choice of the pot in which the meal will be made is of utmost importance.

I bought my first Dutch oven in 2006 and have not stopped using it since. Aside from the sauté pans, this is the most used piece of equipment in my kitchen. I use it for sauces, risottos, soups, deep frying, browning meats, braising and even making rice. Its qualities are the same as those found in a cast iron skillet because beneath its shiny enameled exterior is in fact cast iron which conducts heat evenly; its temperature reduces little when contents are added and it can go from stove top to oven.

The Dutch oven wins out over the cast iron skillet because of its high sides and smooth surface. The former quality, allows for the one pot meal (where the skillet is good for only one dish really). It also utilizes quite a few cooking methods from start to finish. One can sauté aromatics, brown meat, deglaze the pot, then put a lid on it and move it to the oven where it will finish cooking with a slow braise. One of my favorite one-pot dishes (presented here) uses all these methods and has been repeated time and again by friends because of its ease in preparation and wealth of flavor.

The choice of a Dutch oven is easy, be sure it is made of cast iron and has a quality enamel seal. I have seen aluminum stock pots sold under the name of a Dutch oven so buyers beware! The other nuances of Dutch ovens are cost and design which are subject to the cooks pocketbook and preferences. Mine is an avocado green, 6 quart, Mario Batali Italian Essentials weighing in at 15.2 pounds and a price tag of $89.99. Also, the lid has self basting spikes which allow the steam to condense back into the pot during cooking. Both the lid and price is what won me over the Le Creuset which rings in at $230 sans the “basting” spikes.

Whichever Dutch oven you choose and recipes that are made in it, know that it will stand as a cornerstone of the kitchen; providing a place for food friends and family to commune. And during rough times, it is this that keeps my moral up and stomach full.

Chicken Bouillabaisse:
This recipe is derived from an Ina Garten recipe on The Barefoot Contessa and although these contents are not that of a traditional bouillabaisse, the recipe protocols are the same.

In a 6 quart Dutch oven over medium heat melt 2 tablespoons butter with 2 tablespoons olive oil. Increase heat to medium high and add in 6 chicken thighs (about 2 lbs) smooth side down. Brown the thighs on both sides (about 5 minutes per side) adjusting the heat as necessary, until golden brown and fond has formed on the bottom of the pot. Remove chicken thighs to a side plate, reduce heat to medium and add to the pot one large diced onion. Sauté the onions, stirring occasionally, until translucent and slightly golden (about 10 minutes). Add in 4 chopped cloves of garlic and continue to sauté 3 minutes.

Separate the contents and liquid from a 14.5 ounce can of diced tomato.

Add in the diced tomato and sauté over high heat until the tomato has darkened in color (less than 5 minutes) adjusting the heat so that the onions and garlic will not burn.

Deglaze the pan with ½ cup dry vermouth, releasing all brown bits from the bottom of the pot with a wooden spoon. Add in 14 ounces chicken stock, canned tomato liquid, ¼ teaspoon saffron threads, one tablespoon fresh thyme, and the zest of ¼ orange. Bring the liquid to a simmer; add back all the chicken thighs in a single layer being sure they are submerged (adding more chicken stock if necessary). Put the lid on the pot and transfer to the middle rack of a 375° oven. Bake for 45 minutes

In the meantime make a faux rouille and crostinis:

Mix together:
¼ cup mayonnaise
¼ cup sour cream
2 teaspoons lemon juice
2 minced cloves of garlic
½ teaspoon paprika
Salt and pepper to taste.

Cut ¼ to ½ inch slices (on the bias) of a French baguette. Arrange in a single layer on a baking sheet and paint (or drizzle) with olive oil. Set aside.

If you like a thicker stew, make a roux to add to the liquid:
Gently melt 2 tablespoons butter in a small sauté pan until the foam subsides. Add in 3 tablespoons flour and sauté over medium heat until just barely browned. Set aside.

Remove the dutch oven to the stove top uncovered. Adjust the heat so that the liquid is at a simmer, add in the roux and simmer until thickened.

Place the bread into the oven and bake until they reach the desired crispness (about 4-6 minutes for my liking).

To serve: remove a chicken thigh to a shallow bowl using thongs. Spoon bouillabaisse liquid over the chicken thigh and top (in the middle) with a tablespoon of the faux rouille. Place three crostinis on the side of the bowl and serve.

All Hail Caesar Salad: published 02/24/2011

While watching the Academy Awards and deciding who are the best and worst dressed, here is some food for thought: How do you think the celebs were looking at the Hotel Caesar on Revolucion in Tijuana back in the 20’s and early 30’s? Dashing south of the border to whoop it up, skirting the U.S.’s prohibition, at the birth place of the Caesar salad. I might say that the salad, of all involved, may have very well been the most put together and best dressed at the end of the evenings.

Caesar salad is a restaurant staple and, as previously mentioned, has its origins in southern California. Caesar Cardini, an Italian born Mexican began operating restaurants in SoCal in the early 1920’s. His first in San Diego was in the Kahn building on the corner of 6^th and University from 1923 until 1972; better known today as housing The City Deli. Cardini operated the sister restaurant in Tijuana so that he could sell wine and spirits outside of the United State’s Prohibition laws. The tale goes that when a fourth of July rush had depleted his restaurant of ingredients, Cardini gathered rogue items still available in the kitchen and made the salad table-side to otherwise distract the guests that this house special was in fact a hodge-podge of pantry wallflowers.

These days, the Caesar salad is found with all types of permutations from the original: chopped romaine, polenta croutons, anchovy fillets, cotija cheese, a chicken breast or even grilled lettuce. From what I gather, the original Caesar was made of whole leaf hearts of romaine, lightly tossed in a dressing composed of garlic, acids, egg yolks, olive oil and parmesan cheese, served with a coddled egg and supposed to be eaten with your fingers. That is not to say that other variations are not good, just different. As you will see in the recipe, I substitute regular croutons for those made of cornbread and I do love whole anchovy fillets.

So let’s deconstruct the ingredients’ contribution to the full outfit and see how it fares on the red carpet (I guess here, that would be your tongue): The garlic provides a perfume that wafts into each nook of the golden blonde yolk which stretches itself out thin to provide a silky layer for the other flavors to lay against. The dressing begins to glisten after being whisked around a bit with its olive oil counterpart. And the whole ensemble hangs brilliantly on the smooth thin legs of the heart of Romaine. Food never sounded so sexy!

As with any tale, there are refutes and other claims as to the origin of the Caesar salad but I like a dramatic story. I entertain myself with an unperturbed idea that the owner himself created the salad amidst a bunch of sloppy drunk celebrities on a busy Fourth of July evening in his restaurant at the Caesar Hotel, Tijuana. Perhaps that night both Caesar Cardini and his inventive salad were, truly, the best dressed.

Caesar Salad:

I follow the traditional serving suggestion of using the whole hearts of romaine, with a coddled egg and eating it with your fingers however stray from the original recipe by using anchovy and cornbread croutons. This recipe will be easier made with a food processor but a whisk and strong wrist will work just fine.

Serves 6.

For the Dressing:

In a food processor (or using a mortar and pistil), combine until a paste:

3 crushed cloves of garlic

2 anchovy fillets

¼ teaspoon salt

¾ teaspoon fresh ground black pepper

Combine the above paste (using a whisk if necessary) with:

3 egg yolks

2 tablespoons red wine vinegar

5 dashes of Tabasco

3 tablespoons lemon juice

Once combined, slowly add in (emulsify):

Approximately ½ cups olive oil until you have reached the desired consistency.

Stir in ½ cups finely grated Parmesan cheese.

For cornbread croutons:

(This will make more than is necessary for the six servings of salad above)

Preheat oven to 450°

Sift Together:

1 ¾ cups cornmeal

tablespoon sugar

teaspoon salt

teaspoon baking powder

teaspoon baking soda

Aside, whisk together:

2 cups buttermilk and 2 eggs

Combine the wet mixture to the dry.

Coat the sides and bottom of an 8”x8” Pyrex (or any other pan with the same volume) with a thin layer of bacon fat or Crisco. Place in the oven until the fat starts to smoke then remove. Pour in the cornbread mixture evenly and bake for 25 minutes (or until otherwise set). Allow to cool. Remove from pan and cut into ¾” cubes. Allow to dry out in a single layer uncovered over night.

Toss the cubes in 4 tablespoons melted butter and 2 tablespoons olive oil. Sprinkle with 2 teaspoons salt and 1 teaspoon pepper (plus any herbs you may desire). Bake in a single layer at 400° for 15 minutes, turning frequently. Once at room temperature, the croutons can be stored in an airtight container for up to 2 weeks.

Assembly:

Separate 4-5 hearts of Romaine depending on size and desired salad size. Rinse the leaves and dry thoroughly.

Working in two batches with a large bowl, drizzle the dressing over the romaine heart leave and gently toss in a circular motion.

Plate the tossed leaves on chilled plates and top with fresh, course-grated, Parmesan cheese and cornbread croutons being sure to reserve a strategically small space for the coddled egg. Be the first to show your dinner companions that the salad should be eaten with their fingers.

To coddle an egg:

Bring enough water to a boil that will cover a cracked egg. Reduce the water to a simmer and crack the eggs into the water one at a time, immediately swirling the water around them with a slotted spoon. Coddle only a few eggs at a time so they have plenty of room and won’t break while cooking (probably two batches if doing six). Remove the eggs with a slotted spoon to a shallow bowl after 2-3 minutes depending on your preferred doneness. Again, you don’t want to crowd or break the yolks. Simply slide the eggs out of the shallow bowl atop the prepared salad when ready.