In As Good as it Gets, Jack Nicholson tells a woman to, “Sell crazy someplace else, we’re all stocked up here.” Although I might be stocked up on crazy, I certainly found myself needing to stock up on other items for the upcoming Thanksgiving holiday, such as stock itself… Chicken stock that is.
With so many items on the Thanksgiving menu that require the use of chicken, vegetable or turkey stock, I find it nice to make my own a week or two ahead of time and freeze it for use later. Aside from the Thanksgiving table, the stock can be used for many other kitchen endeavors: it acts as the base for many pan sauces; it is a great substitute for water when making rices or other grains such as couscous; it is the base for most soups; and is paramount to making a great risotto. I choose to make chicken stock rather than the others of its unassertive flavor, meaning I can dress it up within whatever recipe it is used by the addition of spices, reduction to concentrate the aromatic flavors, or use it to deglaze a roasting pan containing meats (turkey) or vegetables ultimately infusing these roasted flavors. Stock is such an important kitchen staple that Auguste Escoffier, the father of French cuisine ( and therefore the grandfather of American nouveau) places stocks under the heading Fundamental Elements of Cooking and states, “Indeed, stock is everything in cooking…without it, nothing can be done. If one’s stock is good, what remains of the work is easy; if on the other hand, it is bad or mediocre, it is quite hopeless to expect anything approaching a satisfactory result.” Jeez, no pressure right! But with a little care, a good stock is reproducible at anytime.
The elements of stock are the simple balance between flavor, body and clarity. The choice of older, more mature ingredients impart a robust flavor. The body of a stock is given primarily by the bones that distribute a smooth, rich texture whereas a broth is prepared from meat alone, the later having a far more subtle flavor. Lastly, clarity: a clear stock will have a clean fresh taste versus one that is greasy, cloudy or otherwise muddled and can be produced from just a bit of attentiveness in the first thirty minutes of preparation.
So, with so much at stake with something that is going to make or break the day, why do I promote a homemade stock while the market provides us with nicely packaged and inexpensive product? First is the ingredient list and quality of these packaged goods. I was very hard pressed to find a STOCK in the first place, amidst an abundance of “low sodium” and “organic” BROTHS whose ingredient lists include: “flavor”, maltodextrin (a wheat based thickener), modified cornstarch, and soy lecithin. Celiacs beware! Your wheat based allergy can flare up if a stock or broth is used containing some of these stabilizers not to mention these products may come from GMO strains (genetically modified organisms). Besides, who wants to buy something with an ingredient called “flavor”? Of the only STOCK I found amidst a plethora of BROTHS at my neighborhood market, Kitchen Basic Stock, it is rated poorly by Cook’s Illustrated product test and described as “medicinal and beefy” (the winner, by the way, was Swanson Certified Organic Free Range Chicken Broth). The second reason borders on the bohemian. Simply stated, a stock slowly extracts the basic alimentary essences of ingredients placed in a pot and submerged in water with the application of heat (extracting essences sounds like a subplot to a B-horror movie). Using an ingredient that is as promiscuous as a stock that is home made just feels better.
Alright, now all that mumbo jumbo is aside we can begin the stock. First the ingredients: begin with five pounds of chicken meat and bones that have been trimmed of excess fat, I go for a 3.5 lbs whole bird (that I eighth) and 1.5 lbs leg quarters or bone-in half-breasts. If you don’t know how to eighth a bird, be sure your purchase has a variety of both white and dark meat. The vegetables that you use do need to be washed but do not have to be peeled; this saves a good amount of time and energy. Be sure to use mature aromatic vegetables and try for uniformity in size when cutting them into smaller pieces. For a darker stock, ingredients can be roasted beforehand and the pan deglazed with water and added to the stock pot. As for special equipment, there are a few items that are absolutely necessary: first you’ll need a stock pot (der!). I use the 16 quart, black “lobster” pot speckled with white dots. You’ll also need a colander with handle to remove all the large ingredients from the pot, a fat skimmer, although not required, is an amazing tool to aid in the clarity of the stock or as a microphone while singing in the kitchen. Lastly, you’ll need a fine mesh sieve and some cheesecloth. I have found the initial investment to be completely worth while especially if you adopt stock making as a regular kitchen practice. The recipe here can be halved if you only have an 8qt. soup pot (which most kitchens do) and the completed stock stores nicely in the freezer for later uses (I usually separate it into 2-4 cup portions). I think you’ll be pleased with the end result and be surprised at just how easy it is.
For those of you who want to get out of the house for Thanksgiving, make your reservations immediately. Of all the American Traditional restaurants I called in Hillcrest, Banker’s Hill, North Park, University Heights and Mission Hills, I found less than a handful that will be open.
The Hash House a Go Go (or the HHAGG to locals) is offering a 3 course pre-fixe for $34pp plus a 19% gratuity that includes: a starter choice of Pumpkin Bisque or Caesar Salad, four main course options that include two traditional turkey dishes, a pork tenderloin entrée and a linguini option for our pescetarian friends. All of which are inspired by traditional flavors of sage, rosemary (of course, it’s the hash house!), butternut squash, stuffings and mashed potatoes. The dessert is an option between an apple cobbler and a pumpkin bread pudding. The menu is hidden under the “news” button in the upper right corner of the website’s home page.
Dinner, 2p-8p. Open Seating
3628 Fifth Ave. 92103
619.298.4646
hashhouseagogo.com
Eden will be open and offers a dinner for $39.95pp. Although Eden was not able to supply me with a menu or further information, I’m confident that chef Scotty Wagner will deliver a well realized menu in the tradition that comes from his inspiring creativity.
1220 University Ave. 92103
619.269.3336 x209
edensandiego.com
Bertrand at Mr. A’s is having a 3 course pre-fixe for $55pp plus an 18% gratuity that includes a mélange of options including a black truffle mac and cheese or calamari paella, two soups and a few salads as a starter. Four main dishes to choose from that include only one traditional American Thanksgiving item, and a choice of four different desserts that, again, only include one American traditional choice. The holiday menu is hidden in the upper-upper right hand corner under a small font button reading “holiday info”.
Dinner, 11:30a-8p. Open Seating
2550 Fifth Ave. 92103
619.239.1377
bertrandatmisteras.com
Terra is providing a 3 course pre-fixe for $35pp which does not include an added gratuity and is by far the most Thanksgiving traditional inspired menu I found. Choose between a winter squash bisque or caramelized fennel and bibb salad as your starter, five main entrée selections that include a traditional turkey dinner, pork chop, sea bass, prime rib or vegetable terrine that are all inspired by fall ingredients and are more friendly to our vegetarian and pescetarian friends. Dessert choices include: an apple-persimmon cobbler with winter squash ice cream, maple cheese cake with candied yam cream, or a chocolate torte that still maintains the holiday flare with a star anise infused anglaise and roasted hazelnuts. Although the most comprehensive TDay menu, make your reservations with reservations, from experience Terra often does not pull through with quality and service with these pre fixed holiday endeavors. Holiday menu is directly on the home page of the website.
Dinner, 12p-7p. Four seatings at 12:30, 2:30, 4:30 and 6:30.
1270 Cleveland Ave. 92103 (in the Uptown Shopping Plaza)
619.293.7088
terrasd.com
Or, go and get hammered at Urban Mo’s. Amidst the booze, smoke and boisterous chatter they will be offering a Thanksgiving plate for somewhere around $10 (sorry I can’t be more specific, that’s all I got from the phone conversation).
Dinner, 2p-11p. Open Seating.
308 University Ave. 92103
619.491.0400
urbanmos.com
Whether stock making, bar hoping, friend visiting, or what have you, please just keep in mind that we are all truly blest and be thankful for all that we have.
Chicken Stock:
3 large onions halved (skins on)
1 lbs large carrots cut in thirds
1 lbs large parsnips cut in quarters (optional)
4 celery stalks and the heart cut in half
2 whole heads of garlic, tops cut off
5 lbs chicken bones and meat
Half bunch of parsley and 15 sprigs of thyme tied together with kitchen string
Tb black peppercorns
Place all ingredients in a 16qt. stock pot and cover with 6qt of COLD water (should be enough to cover the ingredients in the pot by 2 inches).
Bring the water up to a simmer over medium heat, skimming off grease and foam with a fat skimmer (or spoon) during the first 30-45 min. Reduce heat to low and allow to barely simmer for 4 hours, skimming the surface intermittently. Turn off heat, remove all large ingredients with a handled colander and pour hot stock through a fine mesh sieve lined with 2 layer of dampened cheese cloth into a container that will hold 5qt. (20 cups). Allow to come to room temperature before chilling. Stock will remain good in the fridge for 4 days or can be stored in the freezer for one
No comments:
Post a Comment