With the amounts of people that come over to my place for the holiday and the prerequisite that all bring Tupperware with them, the only thing usually left over is a hangover and the need for some nerve pills. But I’m not like everyone, and I’m here to address what to do with your leftovers instead of the usual (and delicious) ultra layered manwich of turkey, stuffing, mashed potato, cranberry sauce, and gravy. I mean, let’s face it, leftovers are boring (especially Thanksgiving Day leftovers). But I know what’s not boring, a makeover. So here, let’s try to give these homely refrigerator rejects a new image, bringing them to brilliant from the banal.
Let’s start at the beginning: Prepared at the abode while listening to Christmas music (a family tradition I cannot do without), was an orange-mustard and apple cider basted turkey, apple-walnut stuffing, chestnut and cauliflower gratin, a house made green bean casserole (cream of mushroom soup from scratch atop sautéed green beans and topped with frizzled leeks), a roasted vegetable stew (baked in a sweet pumpkin), whipped yams, and lastly pumpkin, apple and pecan pie. All these items are now staples on my holiday table yet all began as foodie experiments over the years. Now, yearly, cooking with my best friend in the kitchen, we focus on “our” traditional menu items while never ruling out a new dish or different preparation to an existing. As with this article, perhaps you will find a new tradition by experimenting with the thoughts and recipes included. I don’t want to leave anything out here, so also on the table brought in by friends were: two roasted ducks, garlic mashed potatoes, brussel sprouts with lardon (fatty bacon pieces), caramelized shallot-cranberry sauce and a bourbon-spiked mulled apple cider. Jealous much? So, who cares what was on my table? What was on your table? I will assume, at the very least, you have leftover turkey, mashed potatoes, yams, and stuffing.
A complete makeover requires more than just what you have in the closet and makeup bag. Too, with a Thanksgiving leftover-makeover, you might have to purchase some items that are not in your cupboards and look toward The Joy of Cooking for some inspiration. The turkey will lend itself nicely to a variety of dishes: Soups and stews such as Tortilla, Turkey Vegetable, and Mole; creamed turkey is the base for multiple recipes including tetrazzini, a la king, pot pies, and casseroles; the turkey can also be used as the content for a derivation of the shepherd’s pie that also utilizes those mashed potatoes as the topping; or more interestingly, used in a fall inspired spring roll which sounds a bit oxymoronic but could be wonderful with some roasted carrot slivers, cabbage, green onion and a soy-cranberry dipping sauce (thanks to Chef Todd Atcheson of California Cuisine Catering for this idea). With all the ideas included in this article, thoughtful adjustments may have to be applied depending on your ingredient list and preparation.
My suggestion for the yams leans more avant garde: I think that a sweet potato (sounds better than “yam”) ice cream is both intriguing and ingenuitive. Because the leftover yams are already spiced and partially sweetened, the only thing left to do is incorporate some dairy and egg yolks then apply the mixture to your ice cream spinner. This recipe is based on using whipped yams (If you have baked yam wedges, you will need to puree them before use). First: puree 1.5c. whipped yams and ½c. whole milk using a food processor, stand or immersion blender (the latter is the most convenient). Then, in a sauce pan, combine: 2c. heavy cream, 1c. whole milk, ¾c. light brown sugar and heat over medium, stirring occasionally until sugar has dissolved and the liquid is hot. Slowly pour 1c. of the hot liquid into a side bowl containing 5 beaten egg yolks, whisking constantly. Slowly add the egg yolk mixture back to the hot liquid and cook, stirring constantly, until the mixture has thickened and coats the back of the spoon (about 8 minutes). Never let the mixture come to a boil, this will curdle the yolks. Strain the mixture through a sieve and incorporate the sweet potato/milk puree. Chill until the mixture is just above freezing. Apply to the ice cream spinner per manufacturer’s instructions then harden in the freezer at least 6 hours. Ice cream can be served alone, with candied pecans or caramel (or both) on top, or a small scoop as the garnish on a butternut squash soup.
Albeit not as interesting or technically difficult to execute as the above ice cream, I think my idea for the leftover stuffing makeover is the real winner here and the most user friendly, so Bobby R. presents (drum roll, drum roll, fanfare): An Ultimate Savory Bread Pudding. A bread pudding utilizes two very easy ingredients: stale or dry breads and a custard mix. After it has sat on the dinner table, the counter, then stored in the fridge, I’m assuming that your leftover stuffing will be pretty dry and hopefully you still have some eggs and dairy left over in the fridge. I like to make savory bread puddings for a few reasons, the first being that they are wicked easy to prepare and easily feed a small crowd. You can (thoughtfully) incorporate a slew of items that you might have laying around the counter, fridge or pantry that include but are not limited to: dry mustard, herbs, Tabasco, Dijon, tomatoes, fennel, artichoke hearts, cooked bacon, or even left over (raw) greens such as spinach, arugula or kale. My only caution with using leftover stuffing in the bread pudding is with respect to what kind you have made. A turkey giblet and oyster stuffing bread pudding does not sound as appealing as one made with sausage and caramelized fennel. But hey, whatever floats your boat, right? Depending on how much stuffing you have left over, you may have to substantiate the bread content with a stale baguette or rolls (whether left over from dinner or purchased). If using purchased bread, dry it out (sliced) in the oven on 250° for about 20 minutes. You could also adjust the recipe to the amount of stuffing you have with your choice of baking dish. Here, I choose a deep Corning ware that could very well be swapped out for a 9”x 14” x 3” Pyrex. Use the recipe below as a guide to the amount of custard you will need with respect to bread when adjusting it to your specific needs.
Realistically, the above recipes sound good in theory but not in practice. The last thing I want after Thanksgiving is a heavy meal and the leftovers will keep until Sunday brunch (or Monday, if in industry) chez vous. So, let’s take Friday and Saturday off, get out of the neighborhood, do a little shopping, a light lunch, nice dinner and some drinks to help that hangover wane. Let’s start in Ocean Beach, looking for nick-knack like items at any of the antique stores or get your pot-head friend a bong or patchouli at The Black followed up with oyster shooters, fried baby octopus and a bloody mary at South Beach Bar and Grill. Jaunt just east on the 8 freeway to Fashion Valley mall where you can get in a good game of “elbow granny” within the crowd. Sneak away to Bing Crosby’s and enjoy a martini with their Steak Tartar and Baby Spinach Salad. End the day in Downtown visiting the Levis Store at Horton Plaza and Urban Outfitters on 5th and G St., catch a quick film across the street at The Reading Cinemas Gaslamp 15, followed by a nice dinner over at Confidential on 4th and E St. or the new Searsucker Restaurant, as reviewed in last weeks dining section, on 5th and Market.
Whatever you choose to do, at the very least, I hope you are off the couch and away from the Food Network’s “leftover” themed lineup, shedding some of the calories and anxiety either out in the city or active in the kitchen. At the end of the day (here, that day being Thanksgiving), I try to relish in the nostalgia of past traditions and excite myself with the idea that I might be building a new tradition while this is being read. Cheer’s to the beginning of the holiday season, however it might be celebrated.
Made-Over Thanksgiving Stuffing Bread Pudding
For the custard mixture, combine:
5 eggs
2 ½ c. half and half
1/3 c. honey
(The following ingredients are variable with respect to your stuffing’s flavor profile):
2 tsp orange zest
2 tsp Dijon
10 dashes of Tabasco
1 ½ tsp pure vanilla
¼ c. grated parmesan cheese
Combine all ingredients using a whisk
Using a serrated knife, cut a challah loaf (available Fridays at Bread and Cie or the gay Ralph’s) width wise into ½” slices. Line the sides first then bottom of a 2.5 qt. round or oval baking dish. Cube the remaining challah slices and mix into your leftover stuffing for a 50:50 ratio providing enough to fill the remainder of the baking dish. Pour the custard mixture over the bread. Using clean hands, press down on the contents to release the air from the challah bread. Fill the baking dish to the top with the custard mixture and let set for 15 minutes to one hour. Bake the bread pudding on the middle rack of the oven at 350° for one hour (or until the top is puffed and golden brown). Allow to cool 15 minutes and top with a drizzle of maple syrup before serving. If you were not lucky enough to pick up a challah loaf, a baguette or rolls will do in a pinch.
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