A = (3√3÷2) ∙s2

Before Mastering the Art of French Cooking, food terms such as coq au vin, boeuf bourguignon, mirepoix, pot-au-feu, or even crème brulee were as esoteric to Americans as the column title this week. After its boom in popularity for nearly four decades, classic French cuisine, and with it fine dining, have again fallen out of foodie vogue. Now appreciated by those with a specific interest and knowledge, newer generations stray away from establishments offering fantastic service and painstakingly rich-delicious fare. Quelle Dommage!

Walking south on 5^Th after a cocktail at Number One on Fifth Avenue, watching the buildings slowly grow taller as downtown approached, my date and I found ourselves at Hexagone. Referring to the six sided shape of France whose surface area can be calculated using the formula in this column’s title, Hexagone presents an atmosphere and French fare that is both elegant and comforting: Fine dining service, rich pan sauces, and classic preparations presented beautifully on white plates against tables clad in starched white linen. Although not for everyone, I continually hear from friends that they miss the fine dining that our neighborhood(s) once possessed.

Located in Banker’s Hill, on the corner of 5^th and Laurel, Hexagone’s “L” shaped layout provides guests two separate areas to enjoy. Dining in the immediate front room would feel a bit more personable with the bar and table proximity while the length that runs down the west side of 5^th is more intimate and out of the way. This section seems the better choice for a large party to reserve for a function but an even better choice for a pair of lovers to enjoy dinner together if no large parties are around.

Sitting adjacent to one another on the banquet of a corner table, we began with bubbles. It struck me funny that I noticed how the Champagne matched the golden-beige window treatments that framed the windows facing the busy street. We enjoyed the bubbly and the conversation with our waiter as we discussed and decided on dinner.

To start, I had to have the veal sweetbreads. It is so infrequent to find them on any menu; I order them whenever I see them. These were served on a veal demi glaze topped with a very tender chantrelle and cremini mushroom ragout. The crisp exterior of the sweetbread hid the smooth texture of the meat beneath and was an amazing combo with the textured mushrooms and intense pan sauce. A welcome reprieve from the abundance of sissy starters that have gained foodie sex appeal but I guess there is always a time a place for everything.

The second course was a good buffer between the rich starter and the entrees. My date ordered a spinach salad with grilled shrimp, tomato, and hearts of palm. I felt it necessary to try the French onion soup, well, because I was in a French establishment. It was sweet and very cheesy as it usually is. Both were good but overshadowed by the flanking courses.

Our main courses were really well played. I ordered the special: A filet, rare, on a truffle demi, served with brussel sprout leaf and haricot vert salad, and roasted fingerling potatoes. My dinner companion had the lamb shank nicoise on a white bean cassoulet. I did not find out where they source their meats but both were incredible; the lamb in its flavor and the filet with its texture. I especially liked the side of brussel sprout leaf and haricot vert. The blanched leaves of a brussel sprout are a very uncommon accompaniment yet gave a great texture and bright flavor contrast to the otherwise deep demi glaze.

Our bubbly lasted through until the entrees where we both had a glass of Chateauneuf-du-Pape suggested by the bartendress. Stuffed, we did not choose to enjoy desert which is now to my chagrin. I have been dying to get back to Hexagone and try their Tarte Tatin (which is basically a caramelized upside down cake) if only to round out my experience at the restaurant.

Though no longer having much sex appeal to the common diner, yet infused in almost all Western food encounters, the tradition of French cuisine and the essentials of fine dinning will continue to be omnipresent in our American cuisine. So, after being pampered by the service and satiated with the food, I would say that Hexagone has the right equation.

A gift that keeps on giving: published 12/23/2010

Really, make this even for New Years!!!

We have many gifts that are not recognized as such because they do not posses a receipt or the gift tag reading “To: Suzy, Love: Santa”. This column is a gift from me to those of you who enjoy reading it and it is also a gift to me with respect to the enjoyment I get writing it. This is just the most blatant example, literally in front of our faces, but what of others? I don’t want to be too trite but good health, friends, the fact that its 80° as I’m writing this in December are all gifts I have right now.

I used to feel that homemade gifts were pretty hokey, especially food specific ones. As time goes on, I still think that there are ones that are hokey but there are ones that are truly well deserved. Take, for instance, a family traditional recipe: It is something that is time honored and appreciated by the giver and then passed on to the recipient who will hopefully like it as much as you and pass it on to someone else.

I like to bring a food or beverage item to a holiday party and give a handwritten recipe card as the physical gift. I have done this in the past with an Eggnog Recipe passed down to me from my grandmother. She said she had originally found it in a Home and Garden magazine in the ‘70’s and has been making it ever since. The side recipe has been adjusted from the original to fit my specifications of more brown booze and less cream but it is the spirit that is passed down with it.

Though very impressive and amazing in taste, a house made eggnog can be a bit daunting in its preparation. I was given a recipe a few years ago for an almond-chocolate liqueur that is far easier to execute and, unlike eggnog, will keep in the fridge up to two weeks so can be given as a present in addition to the handwritten recipe card. Simply combine the following ingredients, put in a sealed bottle, and attach a ribbon: 1c. Non-dairy creamer, 14 oz. condensed milk, 1 ¾c. Whisky, 2 Tb. quality chocolate syrup, tsp pure vanilla extract, tsp almond extract, tsp instant espresso dissolved in water.

House-Made Eggnog:

This recipe will serve 30 people conservatively. You will need a large container with a sealed lid. The use of milk and ½ and ½ instead of heavy cream makes this version lighter and easier to drink. It is very boozy but after the first few sips, goes down quick and smooth.

2 dozen eggs separated

It is very important here that no yolks get into the egg whites. I think the best way to separate the eggs is to simply use your hand and allow the whites to flow through the cracks between your fingers into a small bowl. You can then toss the yolks into a larger bowl and the collected whites too, as long as there is no yolk present in the smaller bowl.

Beat the egg yolk in a stand mixer with the paddle attachment on low until all the yolks have been broken.

Slowly add in:

4c. confectioner’s (powdered) sugar, then increase the speed to medium high. Beat the mixture until the yolks turn a pale yellow. About 7 minutes.

Aside, mix together:

1c. spiced rum

1c. peach schnapps

1c. amaretto

2c. bourbon

3c. brandy

6c. ½ and ½

8c. milk

Combine the liquid mixture with the egg mixture in a sealed container and steep, shaking every 30 minutes or so, for 2 hours.

Using the whisk attachment of the stand mixer, begin to beat the egg whites on low in a very clean bowl with a teaspoon of lemon juice. Once the whites have begun to froth, slowly increase the speed of the mixer until at medium high. Beat the whites to a stiff peak (meaning the whites hold a point that does not flop over if pulled up with the whisk).

Incorporate 1/3 of the beaten egg whites to the liquid mixture using a rubber spatula. Using a circular over hand motion, fold the whites into the liquid until completely combined. Then add in the remaining whites and continue to fold them into the liquid gently as not to deflate the stiff peaks.

Allow the mixture to sit for at least 12 hours.

The Eggnog will keep, tightly sealed, up to 4 days.

You Say Potato, I Say Vodka: published 12/02/2010

In the immortal words of The Nanny theme song, it was ”style and flair” that got Fran Drescher the gig as nanny in the Sheffield’s home. So too, with the addition of style and flair to a common house gathering, can get you the gig as all-star host or hostess (hopefully sans the nasal voice) of a kick ass Cocktail Party.

I have been a guest at, and have hosted, some pretty amazing cocktail parties over the years but I have been to some egregious ones too. So, as I was putting a cocktail party together last week for my best girlfriend’s birthday celebration, I found myself outlining the elements and essentials one needs to make (or break) the party. Though a small list: atmosphere, food, cocktail supplies, and guest choice, any one of these items chosen poorly will surely throw your party off kilter and each contains many subtopics for delineation, however there will be one string that can tie them all together and that is the cocktail party theme.

Now don’t go out and buy a bunch of tiki items for a “winter beach party” theme (unless you really want to). When I develop ideas for parties I usually lean toward more abstract elements such as color and texture. One of my Christmas cocktail parties was planned with purple ostrich feathers and gold leaf in mind. Another, “baby cheetah” and no I was not high. Other elements that are a bit more concrete could include: a music genre, artist, song, time period, or even a book. Regardless of the inspiration is the ultimate maintenance of the idea in atmosphere, food and libation making you the ultimate party dominatrix (insert sinister laugh here).

Atmosphere: I could never touch on all elements associated with atmosphere nor should I try here since it is a food column but there are certain things I feel are the easiest to manipulate and are essential for me. I like to have a lot of candles burning with minimal if not any artificial light (except in the kitchen). I personally prefer a more sedate music choice such as jazz or the newer “lounge” mixes. A silent visual on the television can also provide a subtle distraction. I invite a mix of people that I know won’t be awkward and will socialize well. They don’t necessarily all need to be acquainted, as it’s nice to meet new people, but I use my best judgment with respect to individual personality types. Lastly, it is important to specify attire. You do not want a shorts and flip flop clad guest to feel out of place in a room full of cocktail dresses. For the most recent party I played Nina Simone with Metropolis, silent on the television in a tea-light lit apartment full of people dressed “sophisticated”. Easy, simple and fun.

Food: While developing this portion of your cocktail menu it is important to think three tiered. The first being stationary food plate(s) coupled to hors d’oeuvres. Having stationary food allows the guests to nosh on their own accord when they first arrive and start to socialize. The hors d’oeuvres provide an elapsed food experience during the cocktail party time frame. The second is the ease in preparation; you will want most everything prepared in advance so that you can enjoy the party too. Lastly is food volume with respect to time. A cocktail party is not designed to provide a meal but keep in mind that if you plan to throw it at six, guests may not have eaten dinner and be hungrier than at cocktail party with an eight o’clock start time.

For my stationary plate, I usually choose a wedge of brie topped with warmed compote whose ingredients match the season served with a couple roasted heads of garlic (that will make the place smell GREAT by the way) and some toasted crostini and crackers. I chose to make a persimmon and cranberry compote for the most recent cocktail party. Other stationary items I like to make are: steamed heads of artichoke with a house made aioli (mayonnaise); a soup is a nice self serve item (it can be kept warm in a crockpot but be careful of spillage and color of soup with respect to the chosen evening attire!!!); terrines and pates are simple to eat but require a bit more pre-party preparation; lastly, a plate of assorted cured olives or crudités is a very simple stationary item and can be purchased from your local market’s olive and salad bar. However elaborate or simple you choose, the stationary food is now out of your site and mind so that you can focus on the hors d’oeuvres.

I think the most manageable amount of hors d’oeuvres to plan on is three. Selecting choices of meat, vegetable and fish base will cover the gamete of picky guests’ dietary restrictions and gives a nice variety to those that will eat every one. I usually plan to do two “rounds” of each hors d’oeuvres, staggered to last the first third or half of the projected party time frame. Of course there are hors d’oeuvres that can be prepared and assembled hours in advance, but I like to give myself something active to do during the party so I usually have all my items prepared and separated into their respective containers (this is called mise en place in French cooking) so that I can assemble them, quickly, during the party. The last hors d’oeuvres I did were: shrimp and fennel ceviche on endive spears, seared fillet on a crostini with arugula and aioli, and small servings of butternut squash bisque.

Depending on the theme and space, you can choose to tray pass or set out the hors d’oeuvres in strategic places so that all guests can access them from where they are currently located. The later requires more trays with less food on them to cover the whole area of the party where the former can be placed on one tray and distributed to all the guests by someone carrying it around (I usually choose to do this myself but you could always outsource to a willing friend). Of course, all this is assuming you have serving trays. If you do not, many things in the kitchen can suffice including a cutting board or cookie sheet lined with a linen napkin. Be creative and don’t forget to provide cocktail napkins (or a close facsimile thereof).

Cocktail: I prefer to have a signature cocktail served to everyone as they arrive. Guests can bring booze they prefer or even decline the cocktail (how gosh) but the initial distribution is fun and initiates that they are in the hands of a good host. Wine spritzers are a good choice for ease, budget and general (non) intoxication of the guests but are not the most fancy of beverages. I used one at the aforementioned birthday celebration that mixed gewürztraminer, green tea, ginger ale and peach schnapps.

If you have a friend who considers themselves a mixologist, solicit them for cocktail recipe advice. If they have come up with the cocktail recipe, then they may be eager to bartend at the party too. While developing the cocktail flavor, keep your foods in mind giving a profile that will maintain the mood. There are so many artesian Liqueurs on the market now that you may have difficulty choosing. Great Liqueurs I have used often are: Canton (ginger flavor), St. Germain (elderflower infused brandy), Benedictine, Chartreuse and Poma (pomegranate flavor). The nice thing about Liqueurs is that they are not the primary ingredient in a cocktail so, although the bottle might be expensive, you will have quite a bit left over for the next endeavor. Under used mixers such as ginger ale, lemonade, iced rooibos or green tea, or coconut milk can also dress up otherwise boring cocktail.

Once the ingredients are decided, you’ll need ice. ICE, ICE, Baby!!! Did I mention ice? I have been to so many parties, cocktail or not, where the ice has run out or wasn’t even there to begin with. Cocktails need ice, whether provided or brought by guests, so stock the freezer or cooler to the brim, store it in sink; I don’t care how just have lots of ice and then enjoy a libation to help loosen up after all that planning.

So you have the idea, the outfit and the friends but not the digs to supply your ultimate vision. Why not throw a “mock”tail party at a local lounge type establishment that can provide the food, drinks and ambience. I was at the Tractor Room recently enjoying some small plates and cocktails on the patio when this idea struck me. I love the lighting, music and ultimate feel of the whole place and on the corner of the patio is a table that seats four next to a raised table that seats two (with a heat lamp in between) which would accommodate six to eight people comfortably chatting while sitting and standing on a not too busy night.

The Tractor Room has an array of game meat inspired small plates and sharable entrees that can be snacked on while drinking cocktails ordered from a very elaborate menu. When I was there last, my companion and I shared the mushroom and chicken liver pate followed by a duo of pheasant and rabbit sausage skewers. I have enjoyed the pate many times before and was not disappointed this evening. The pate itself is sealed under clarified butter until you pierce the layer with your knife and get to the creamy, rich, mousse-like consistency served in a cast iron bowl. The pate has a few crostinis as a delivery service from plate to mouth and some caramelized shallot and tomato on top but what I enjoy most is the massive quarter loaf of artisan grilled bread that should be ripped apart by hand. Truly inspiring the “breaking of the bread” with friends.

The sausage skewers were equally satisfying, satiating a different degree of my inner foodie: both sausages had a qualifying texture and subtle difference to their gamey taste. I can only describe the rabbit as being more smoky and “dark” in flavor than the pheasant while both were complemented by a creamy gorgonzola cheese and a roasted tomato confit on the plate. The skewers were also accompanied by polenta croutons that gave a contrast in texture to the tender meats and soft cheese-tomato mix.

From past visits, I have always liked their boar stew (can be made with buffalo as well), beef tenderloin skewers, and salmon served on a cedar plank. I think my preferred cocktail has left the menu but they were happy to reproduce it for me on my last visit. It is made with gin, dry vermouth, green chartreuse and a thyme sprig shaken then strained in a martini glass.

After the last cocktail party, Thanksgiving and Christmas around the corner, I probably won’t be planning another party chez moi for a while. But I’m sure I’ll find myself at the Tractor Room with more friends soon for an impromptu “mock”tail party to ease the holiday bustle with amazing cocktails, company, atmosphere and food.

Roasted Garlic

So simple and so delicious. Make this recipe to serve alone on toast points or as a side to a cheese plate. For 12 people:

Cut the tops off of 4 heads of garlic keeping the head intact while removing any excess paper.

Place each head of garlic on an aluminum foil square, drizzle with a tablespoon of oil and 1/8 teaspoon salt.

Wrap seal each aluminum square by simply squeezing together at the top making a little packet of each head.

Place directly on the upper over rack and place a tray on the lower to catch any dippings.

Roast garlic 45 minutes at 450° then let cool.

Serve warm with thinly sliced baguette rounds that have been drizzled with olive oil, sprinkled with salt and toasted in the oven for about 10 minutes.

Leftover-Makeover: published 11/25/2010

With the amounts of people that come over to my place for the holiday and the prerequisite that all bring Tupperware with them, the only thing usually left over is a hangover and the need for some nerve pills. But I’m not like everyone, and I’m here to address what to do with your leftovers instead of the usual (and delicious) ultra layered manwich of turkey, stuffing, mashed potato, cranberry sauce, and gravy. I mean, let’s face it, leftovers are boring (especially Thanksgiving Day leftovers). But I know what’s not boring, a makeover. So here, let’s try to give these homely refrigerator rejects a new image, bringing them to brilliant from the banal.

Let’s start at the beginning: Prepared at the abode while listening to Christmas music (a family tradition I cannot do without), was an orange-mustard and apple cider basted turkey, apple-walnut stuffing, chestnut and cauliflower gratin, a house made green bean casserole (cream of mushroom soup from scratch atop sautéed green beans and topped with frizzled leeks), a roasted vegetable stew (baked in a sweet pumpkin), whipped yams, and lastly pumpkin, apple and pecan pie. All these items are now staples on my holiday table yet all began as foodie experiments over the years. Now, yearly, cooking with my best friend in the kitchen, we focus on “our” traditional menu items while never ruling out a new dish or different preparation to an existing. As with this article, perhaps you will find a new tradition by experimenting with the thoughts and recipes included. I don’t want to leave anything out here, so also on the table brought in by friends were: two roasted ducks, garlic mashed potatoes, brussel sprouts with lardon (fatty bacon pieces), caramelized shallot-cranberry sauce and a bourbon-spiked mulled apple cider. Jealous much? So, who cares what was on my table? What was on your table? I will assume, at the very least, you have leftover turkey, mashed potatoes, yams, and stuffing.

A complete makeover requires more than just what you have in the closet and makeup bag. Too, with a Thanksgiving leftover-makeover, you might have to purchase some items that are not in your cupboards and look toward The Joy of Cooking for some inspiration. The turkey will lend itself nicely to a variety of dishes: Soups and stews such as Tortilla, Turkey Vegetable, and Mole; creamed turkey is the base for multiple recipes including tetrazzini, a la king, pot pies, and casseroles; the turkey can also be used as the content for a derivation of the shepherd’s pie that also utilizes those mashed potatoes as the topping; or more interestingly, used in a fall inspired spring roll which sounds a bit oxymoronic but could be wonderful with some roasted carrot slivers, cabbage, green onion and a soy-cranberry dipping sauce (thanks to Chef Todd Atcheson of California Cuisine Catering for this idea). With all the ideas included in this article, thoughtful adjustments may have to be applied depending on your ingredient list and preparation.

My suggestion for the yams leans more avant garde: I think that a sweet potato (sounds better than “yam”) ice cream is both intriguing and ingenuitive. Because the leftover yams are already spiced and partially sweetened, the only thing left to do is incorporate some dairy and egg yolks then apply the mixture to your ice cream spinner. This recipe is based on using whipped yams (If you have baked yam wedges, you will need to puree them before use). First: puree 1.5c. whipped yams and ½c. whole milk using a food processor, stand or immersion blender (the latter is the most convenient). Then, in a sauce pan, combine: 2c. heavy cream, 1c. whole milk, ¾c. light brown sugar and heat over medium, stirring occasionally until sugar has dissolved and the liquid is hot. Slowly pour 1c. of the hot liquid into a side bowl containing 5 beaten egg yolks, whisking constantly. Slowly add the egg yolk mixture back to the hot liquid and cook, stirring constantly, until the mixture has thickened and coats the back of the spoon (about 8 minutes). Never let the mixture come to a boil, this will curdle the yolks. Strain the mixture through a sieve and incorporate the sweet potato/milk puree. Chill until the mixture is just above freezing. Apply to the ice cream spinner per manufacturer’s instructions then harden in the freezer at least 6 hours. Ice cream can be served alone, with candied pecans or caramel (or both) on top, or a small scoop as the garnish on a butternut squash soup.

Albeit not as interesting or technically difficult to execute as the above ice cream, I think my idea for the leftover stuffing makeover is the real winner here and the most user friendly, so Bobby R. presents (drum roll, drum roll, fanfare): An Ultimate Savory Bread Pudding. A bread pudding utilizes two very easy ingredients: stale or dry breads and a custard mix. After it has sat on the dinner table, the counter, then stored in the fridge, I’m assuming that your leftover stuffing will be pretty dry and hopefully you still have some eggs and dairy left over in the fridge. I like to make savory bread puddings for a few reasons, the first being that they are wicked easy to prepare and easily feed a small crowd. You can (thoughtfully) incorporate a slew of items that you might have laying around the counter, fridge or pantry that include but are not limited to: dry mustard, herbs, Tabasco, Dijon, tomatoes, fennel, artichoke hearts, cooked bacon, or even left over (raw) greens such as spinach, arugula or kale. My only caution with using leftover stuffing in the bread pudding is with respect to what kind you have made. A turkey giblet and oyster stuffing bread pudding does not sound as appealing as one made with sausage and caramelized fennel. But hey, whatever floats your boat, right? Depending on how much stuffing you have left over, you may have to substantiate the bread content with a stale baguette or rolls (whether left over from dinner or purchased). If using purchased bread, dry it out (sliced) in the oven on 250° for about 20 minutes. You could also adjust the recipe to the amount of stuffing you have with your choice of baking dish. Here, I choose a deep Corning ware that could very well be swapped out for a 9”x 14” x 3” Pyrex. Use the recipe below as a guide to the amount of custard you will need with respect to bread when adjusting it to your specific needs.

Realistically, the above recipes sound good in theory but not in practice. The last thing I want after Thanksgiving is a heavy meal and the leftovers will keep until Sunday brunch (or Monday, if in industry) chez vous. So, let’s take Friday and Saturday off, get out of the neighborhood, do a little shopping, a light lunch, nice dinner and some drinks to help that hangover wane. Let’s start in Ocean Beach, looking for nick-knack like items at any of the antique stores or get your pot-head friend a bong or patchouli at The Black followed up with oyster shooters, fried baby octopus and a bloody mary at South Beach Bar and Grill. Jaunt just east on the 8 freeway to Fashion Valley mall where you can get in a good game of “elbow granny” within the crowd. Sneak away to Bing Crosby’s and enjoy a martini with their Steak Tartar and Baby Spinach Salad. End the day in Downtown visiting the Levis Store at Horton Plaza and Urban Outfitters on 5^th and G St., catch a quick film across the street at The Reading Cinemas Gaslamp 15, followed by a nice dinner over at Confidential on 4^th and E St. or the new Searsucker Restaurant, as reviewed in last weeks dining section, on 5^th and Market.

Whatever you choose to do, at the very least, I hope you are off the couch and away from the Food Network’s “leftover” themed lineup, shedding some of the calories and anxiety either out in the city or active in the kitchen. At the end of the day (here, that day being Thanksgiving), I try to relish in the nostalgia of past traditions and excite myself with the idea that I might be building a new tradition while this is being read. Cheer’s to the beginning of the holiday season, however it might be celebrated.

Made-Over Thanksgiving Stuffing Bread Pudding

For the custard mixture, combine:

5 eggs

2 ½ c. half and half

1/3 c. honey

(The following ingredients are variable with respect to your stuffing’s flavor profile):

2 tsp orange zest

2 tsp Dijon

10 dashes of Tabasco

1 ½ tsp pure vanilla

¼ c. grated parmesan cheese

Combine all ingredients using a whisk

Using a serrated knife, cut a challah loaf (available Fridays at Bread and Cie or the gay Ralph’s) width wise into ½” slices. Line the sides first then bottom of a 2.5 qt. round or oval baking dish. Cube the remaining challah slices and mix into your leftover stuffing for a 50:50 ratio providing enough to fill the remainder of the baking dish. Pour the custard mixture over the bread. Using clean hands, press down on the contents to release the air from the challah bread. Fill the baking dish to the top with the custard mixture and let set for 15 minutes to one hour. Bake the bread pudding on the middle rack of the oven at 350° for one hour (or until the top is puffed and golden brown). Allow to cool 15 minutes and top with a drizzle of maple syrup before serving. If you were not lucky enough to pick up a challah loaf, a baguette or rolls will do in a pinch.

"Stock"ing up: published 11/18/2010

In As Good as it Gets, Jack Nicholson tells a woman to, “Sell crazy someplace else, we’re all stocked up here.” Although I might be stocked up on crazy, I certainly found myself needing to stock up on other items for the upcoming Thanksgiving holiday, such as stock itself… Chicken stock that is.

With so many items on the Thanksgiving menu that require the use of chicken, vegetable or turkey stock, I find it nice to make my own a week or two ahead of time and freeze it for use later. Aside from the Thanksgiving table, the stock can be used for many other kitchen endeavors: it acts as the base for many pan sauces; it is a great substitute for water when making rices or other grains such as couscous; it is the base for most soups; and is paramount to making a great risotto. I choose to make chicken stock rather than the others of its unassertive flavor, meaning I can dress it up within whatever recipe it is used by the addition of spices, reduction to concentrate the aromatic flavors, or use it to deglaze a roasting pan containing meats (turkey) or vegetables ultimately infusing these roasted flavors. Stock is such an important kitchen staple that Auguste Escoffier, the father of French cuisine ( and therefore the grandfather of American nouveau) places stocks under the heading Fundamental Elements of Cooking and states, “Indeed, stock is everything in cooking…without it, nothing can be done. If one’s stock is good, what remains of the work is easy; if on the other hand, it is bad or mediocre, it is quite hopeless to expect anything approaching a satisfactory result.” Jeez, no pressure right! But with a little care, a good stock is reproducible at anytime.

The elements of stock are the simple balance between flavor, body and clarity. The choice of older, more mature ingredients impart a robust flavor. The body of a stock is given primarily by the bones that distribute a smooth, rich texture whereas a broth is prepared from meat alone, the later having a far more subtle flavor. Lastly, clarity: a clear stock will have a clean fresh taste versus one that is greasy, cloudy or otherwise muddled and can be produced from just a bit of attentiveness in the first thirty minutes of preparation.

So, with so much at stake with something that is going to make or break the day, why do I promote a homemade stock while the market provides us with nicely packaged and inexpensive product? First is the ingredient list and quality of these packaged goods. I was very hard pressed to find a STOCK in the first place, amidst an abundance of “low sodium” and “organic” BROTHS whose ingredient lists include: “flavor”, maltodextrin (a wheat based thickener), modified cornstarch, and soy lecithin. Celiacs beware! Your wheat based allergy can flare up if a stock or broth is used containing some of these stabilizers not to mention these products may come from GMO strains (genetically modified organisms). Besides, who wants to buy something with an ingredient called “flavor”? Of the only STOCK I found amidst a plethora of BROTHS at my neighborhood market, Kitchen Basic Stock, it is rated poorly by Cook’s Illustrated product test and described as “medicinal and beefy” (the winner, by the way, was Swanson Certified Organic Free Range Chicken Broth). The second reason borders on the bohemian. Simply stated, a stock slowly extracts the basic alimentary essences of ingredients placed in a pot and submerged in water with the application of heat (extracting essences sounds like a subplot to a B-horror movie). Using an ingredient that is as promiscuous as a stock that is home made just feels better.

Alright, now all that mumbo jumbo is aside we can begin the stock. First the ingredients: begin with five pounds of chicken meat and bones that have been trimmed of excess fat, I go for a 3.5 lbs whole bird (that I eighth) and 1.5 lbs leg quarters or bone-in half-breasts. If you don’t know how to eighth a bird, be sure your purchase has a variety of both white and dark meat. The vegetables that you use do need to be washed but do not have to be peeled; this saves a good amount of time and energy. Be sure to use mature aromatic vegetables and try for uniformity in size when cutting them into smaller pieces. For a darker stock, ingredients can be roasted beforehand and the pan deglazed with water and added to the stock pot. As for special equipment, there are a few items that are absolutely necessary: first you’ll need a stock pot (der!). I use the 16 quart, black “lobster” pot speckled with white dots. You’ll also need a colander with handle to remove all the large ingredients from the pot, a fat skimmer, although not required, is an amazing tool to aid in the clarity of the stock or as a microphone while singing in the kitchen. Lastly, you’ll need a fine mesh sieve and some cheesecloth. I have found the initial investment to be completely worth while especially if you adopt stock making as a regular kitchen practice. The recipe here can be halved if you only have an 8qt. soup pot (which most kitchens do) and the completed stock stores nicely in the freezer for later uses (I usually separate it into 2-4 cup portions). I think you’ll be pleased with the end result and be surprised at just how easy it is.

For those of you who want to get out of the house for Thanksgiving, make your reservations immediately. Of all the American Traditional restaurants I called in Hillcrest, Banker’s Hill, North Park, University Heights and Mission Hills, I found less than a handful that will be open.

The Hash House a Go Go (or the HHAGG to locals) is offering a 3 course pre-fixe for $34pp plus a 19% gratuity that includes: a starter choice of Pumpkin Bisque or Caesar Salad, four main course options that include two traditional turkey dishes, a pork tenderloin entrée and a linguini option for our pescetarian friends. All of which are inspired by traditional flavors of sage, rosemary (of course, it’s the hash house!), butternut squash, stuffings and mashed potatoes. The dessert is an option between an apple cobbler and a pumpkin bread pudding. The menu is hidden under the “news” button in the upper right corner of the website’s home page.

Dinner, 2p-8p. Open Seating

3628 Fifth Ave. 92103

619.298.4646

hashhouseagogo.com

Eden will be open and offers a dinner for $39.95pp. Although Eden was not able to supply me with a menu or further information, I’m confident that chef Scotty Wagner will deliver a well realized menu in the tradition that comes from his inspiring creativity.

1220 University Ave. 92103

619.269.3336 x209

edensandiego.com

Bertrand at Mr. A’s is having a 3 course pre-fixe for $55pp plus an 18% gratuity that includes a mélange of options including a black truffle mac and cheese or calamari paella, two soups and a few salads as a starter. Four main dishes to choose from that include only one traditional American Thanksgiving item, and a choice of four different desserts that, again, only include one American traditional choice. The holiday menu is hidden in the upper-upper right hand corner under a small font button reading “holiday info”.

Dinner, 11:30a-8p. Open Seating

2550 Fifth Ave. 92103

619.239.1377

bertrandatmisteras.com

Terra is providing a 3 course pre-fixe for $35pp which does not include an added gratuity and is by far the most Thanksgiving traditional inspired menu I found. Choose between a winter squash bisque or caramelized fennel and bibb salad as your starter, five main entrée selections that include a traditional turkey dinner, pork chop, sea bass, prime rib or vegetable terrine that are all inspired by fall ingredients and are more friendly to our vegetarian and pescetarian friends. Dessert choices include: an apple-persimmon cobbler with winter squash ice cream, maple cheese cake with candied yam cream, or a chocolate torte that still maintains the holiday flare with a star anise infused anglaise and roasted hazelnuts. Although the most comprehensive TDay menu, make your reservations with reservations, from experience Terra often does not pull through with quality and service with these pre fixed holiday endeavors. Holiday menu is directly on the home page of the website.

Dinner, 12p-7p. Four seatings at 12:30, 2:30, 4:30 and 6:30.

1270 Cleveland Ave. 92103 (in the Uptown Shopping Plaza)

619.293.7088

terrasd.com

Or, go and get hammered at Urban Mo’s. Amidst the booze, smoke and boisterous chatter they will be offering a Thanksgiving plate for somewhere around $10 (sorry I can’t be more specific, that’s all I got from the phone conversation).

Dinner, 2p-11p. Open Seating.

308 University Ave. 92103

619.491.0400

urbanmos.com

Whether stock making, bar hoping, friend visiting, or what have you, please just keep in mind that we are all truly blest and be thankful for all that we have.

Chicken Stock:

3 large onions halved (skins on)

1 lbs large carrots cut in thirds

1 lbs large parsnips cut in quarters (optional)

4 celery stalks and the heart cut in half

2 whole heads of garlic, tops cut off

5 lbs chicken bones and meat

Half bunch of parsley and 15 sprigs of thyme tied together with kitchen string

Tb black peppercorns

Place all ingredients in a 16qt. stock pot and cover with 6qt of COLD water (should be enough to cover the ingredients in the pot by 2 inches).

Bring the water up to a simmer over medium heat, skimming off grease and foam with a fat skimmer (or spoon) during the first 30-45 min. Reduce heat to low and allow to barely simmer for 4 hours, skimming the surface intermittently. Turn off heat, remove all large ingredients with a handled colander and pour hot stock through a fine mesh sieve lined with 2 layer of dampened cheese cloth into a container that will hold 5qt. (20 cups). Allow to come to room temperature before chilling. Stock will remain good in the fridge for 4 days or can be stored in the freezer for one

Pleasures with Squash: published 11/11/2010

Get your mind out of the gutter!!! I’m talking gastronomic pleasures that require a knife, maybe a box grater and some olive oil not a tub of lube, rubber gloves and an enema (but now that I look at it, the former could probably be construed sexually too).

When I was asked to write a food article, I was immediately struck with what I should write about and why people would listen to me. Then I figured I would just write about whatever I wanted and let the reader decide whether to read me or not. As a self proclaimed foodie and avid home cook, I felt that to hold my own with new audience, the most honest and truthful place for me to gain inspiration for a topic should be my own kitchen.

My philosophy is to eat as local and healthy as possible within reason of budget, convenience and ultimate desire: all of which take a certain rationalization at each food choice juncture, but that is the wonder of our Western diet, right? We can choose how far we want to go with a food trend until it takes too much work. I understand this may seem like I have compromised myself to the end goal but I believe in applied thought and moderation to (almost) everything. Because if the regiment begins to undermine the ultimate joy of cooking food, you’re left with just as sterile an item as the over processed foods in which you are trying to avoid. The bottom line for me is getting people back in the kitchen, applying an artistry, direct interest and love of food. So if a strict “organic” diet is going to compromise these things than I believe one should expand the repertoire intelligently.

While wondering and wandering about the kitchen for an aha! moment I couldn’t help but realize that I was staring at six pounds of fresh zucchini which I recently purchased at Poncho Villa.

Fresh and Local can only go so far, so when I wanted to go only so far to find fresh, I found myself at the local Mexican market, Pancho Villa located at 3245 El Cajon Blvd. 92104 (on the corner of 33^rd). The produce department covers about forty percent of the store which is remarkable compared to that of other markets in the area. Although this produce department does not or cannot advertise a completely organic selection, they are sourcing from mostly local California providers (so says Gerardo in produce) and delivering very competitively priced fruits and vegetables. Unfortunately, I was unable to speak with the produce manager, but during my last visit I found some very inexpensive produce items including tomatillos for $0.33/lbs; oranges, limes and seedless watermelon for $0.11/lbs; cucumbers for $0.17 each and zucchinis for $0.16/lbs.

I have always loved summer squashes: zucchinis, crookneck, pattypan, or any other heirloom variety of the “soft” skinned cousin to the pumpkin because of their simple flavor, delicate texture, ease of preparation and aesthetic. Unlike the winter squashes (butternut, acorn, spaghetti, turban, etc.), the “summer” variety have a higher water content, edible seeds, do not require long cooking times, and most importantly are available practically all year in a warmer climate such as southern California. Not only are they ubiquitous to our produce departments but also benefit the eater with bursts of vitamins A and C as well as niacin (a B vitamin that lowers LDL, “bad” cholesterol, and increases HDL, “good” cholesterol, levels). Whether sautéed, baked, deep fried or steamed, these little suckers find their way into many meals aside from just being an afterthought vegetable with dinner. During breakfast we find zucchini muffins, as snacks they’re found raw on crudités platters (raw vegetables with dip), in the bar they are served breaded and deep fried (thank you Urban Mo’s!) to soak up some of those alcohol vapors, even as a sophisticated hors d’oeuvres you can find gravlox with crème fraiche (smoked salmon and fancy sour cream) topped with caviar on a zucchini pancake instead of the traditional potato cake variety. Here, I adventure out into the community and also back to the kitchen to find some tasty preparations.

Wondering where I could go and find a zucchini-centric menu item, I remembered a summer squash appetizer I had a couple months ago on a summer evening in North Park at El Take it Easy located at 3926 30^th St. 92104 (Linkery’s new sister restaurant). So I trotted off hoping to rediscover what I remembered as a delicious small plate and maybe find a few other items on the menu to stimulate the palate. EZ, as it is known to locals, calls itself a Gastro Cantina, which is, by their own definition, a Social Club with excellent, Mexican-inspired food.

I walked into EZ on a Saturday evening, welcomed by a dimly lit, open room with a high ceiling and a certain asymmetrical allure of the room’s design. There was a good crowd giving the place a buzz of white noise beneath the beats of modern Spanish/Mexican music spun by the DJ. Assessing the room to find a place to sit, I was drawn by the design to a seat in front of a table-level bar area. A flat screen TV silently showing a closed-captioned Aventurera (a campy black and white film set in Guadalajara), a well thought beer and wine menu, and closely sat patrons afforded the comfort that I would leave there with a buzz and the satisfaction of being part of this “Social Club”.

I promptly ordered a draft of pale ale from Mexicali, the Summer Squash Tostada I was happy to find still on the menu, and the Egg and Squash Consuela. I sat back and enjoyed the ambiance, the movie, the music, and beer as I waited for my small plates. I bided my time with quick conversations with patrons around me and a server Courtney, who was very natural and pleasant while we discussed whether or not I should order the Sweet and Sour Fried Chicken Heads and Sautéed Chicken Spleens to quench my inner foodie’s sense of adventure, which I did. The tostada arrived looking just as I had remembered it, layered (from bottom to top) with: a crisp fried flour tortilla, house made sour cream, shredded lettuce, thinly sliced radishes, three large rounds of grilled summer squash and finally topped with a chunky guacamole. This small plate is very remarkable, delivering both fresh flavors and great texture: the crispness of the tortilla was smoothed by the perfectly salted guacamole and silky squash rounds while the tongue was tickled with the subtle heat of the radishes then cooled by the shredded lettuce. A quality was there that one doesn’t taste often which can only be attributed to their produce sourcing (I later found out the squash came from Wing Shadow Hacienda in Warner Springs, CA) and passion for good food. Tonight, the Egg and Squash Consuela was prepared with a red mole instead of the menu description of a mole verde which was fine by me because this dish was superb. A small crock of diced summer squash and over medium fried eggs swimming in the mole served with warmed tortillas on the side; the flavors of the sauce were smoky and bold without over powering the main ingredients. By the time I was done, there was mole dripping down my fingers and dotting the counter top. My bottom line: come here for the ambience, beer, consuelas and vegetable dishes (forgo the fried chicken heads and sautéed spleen). Enjoy the high quality products and don’t complain about the price or the 18% added gratuity. You get what you pay for and this “revenue share” gratuity goes not only to the servers but those that are preparing the food and washing the dishes. Thank you to El Take it Easy.

So what did I do with the six pounds of zucchini on my counter? Two pounds were used to make cranberry-zucchini muffins, two pounds were used for the following recipe and I’ll let the readers use their imagination as to what I did with the remaining summer squashes.

Zucchini and Thyme “Omelet”:

Using the rougher side of that oval Ikea cheese grater we all own:

Grate 2 lbs (four small) zucchini

Sprinkle with 1 Tb salt and let sit 30 minutes.

Using a clean kitchen towel, wring out the grated zucchini of all excess liquid (your hands would work too). Then in a 12 inch skillet:

Heat 2 Tb olive oil over high heat until the oil is glossy. Add in the zucchini and sauté until browned (about 7 minutes) stirring occasionally. Remove from heat.

In a large bowl:

Whisk together 4 large eggs, ½ tsp. pepper, and 1 Tb fresh thyme. Stir in the browned zucchini.

In the same skillet:

Heat 2 Tb butter over medium high heat until the foam subsides. Add in egg and zucchini mixture distributing evenly over the surface and cook 1 minute. Reduce heat to medium low and cook an additional 3 minutes. Using a plate and spatula, carefully flip the “omelet”. Cook for an additional 1 minute then set aside.

If your skillet is oven safe, pre heat the broiler to low and skip the above flipping step. Instead, finish the preparation under the broiler until golden brown.

Serve at room temperature while pondering what you’ll be doing with all the other produce you picked up from Pancho Villa.

Bobby R. is back, and presenting!!!

At this point, hi to me. It is good to have my Foodie persona back in action. I was recently offered the opportunity to begin a food column in my neighborhoods weekly column and jumped at the opportunity. I am initiating this blog as a platform for my columns and ideas. At this point, I have been writing (relatively) weekly for two months so I will be posting all of them, to date, now. The entries here are not exactly as presented in the San Diego LGBT Weekly, but are relatively close and yield a solid final product as presented by Bobby R.. Thank you in advance.