“Theese is Francisco, I huv caught the roooster”. In my Imaginarium, I hear these words as a cryptic incantation for elaborate spy stories’ segue. In the real world, it was a voice mail to a good friend of mine I call “poodle”. Poodle lives in Golden Hill and has had a rooster and chickens running feral in his backyard for months. Until he sought the assistance of an immigrant associate, who left the aforementioned voice message, the clucks, poops and otherwise annoying occurrences that the fowl manifested had bothered his solace.
These chickens were once domesticated, escaped, and have learned to survive wild in our tumultuous climate. I believe that the practice of urban chicken farming is far more prevalent than most would think in the San Diego area. By my understanding of the zoning laws, one household may keep up to eight chickens (no roosters) in an urban setting as long as the coop and all other accoutrements are kept outside of 50’ from residences’ abodes. In my research, a woman called Shelly Stewart is doing it in University Heights and has a video on the youtube’s.
So why am I talking about keeping chickens? Aside from an amazing feat of sustainable urban living, they lay eggs. A package of indisputable nutrition and, ultimately, life. The egg of any species is an amazing packet of life fuel and acts as a philosophical tool to mankind; was it the chicken or the egg? The mother life of earth is considered the egg and there are many analogies between life sustenance and the origin of the egg as a symbol for creation.
For the chef, the egg is an amazing tool because of its whole ubiquity and individual compartmentalization with respect to use: A whole egg is coddled then placed on toast for my breakfast; while yolks and whites are easily separated by hand, due to the membranes that bind them together. Each component can be used independently in numerous kitchen recipes or combined in an almost infinitesimal amount of variations and ratios. The yolk alone (which is used in the included recipe) is paramount in pastry creams, ice creams and hollandaise-like sauces while the whites are reserved for meringues, soufflés and an otherwise lower cholesterol breakfasts.
Keeping your ears perked while enjoying your next breakfast or pastrycream, perhaps you’ll hear the cockle-doodle-do of an unzoned rooster from a guerilla chicken farmer right next door. Unlike my Poodle, let the sound bring joy, instead of disdain, that sustainable-urban farming is so close at hand.
Fresh berry tart with pastry cream:
I usually reserve this recipe for my annual Easter Brunch, but present it here because it fits the bill so well. You will want to use the freshest berries in the market.
For the pastry cream:
Over low heat in a saucepan bring 3 cups milk to just under the boiling point (scalded).
In a kitchen stand mixer, fitted with the paddle attachment, beat 12 large eggs on low speed until the membranes have been broken. Add in 1 ½ cups sugar and beat on med-high until thick and pale yellow (about 4 minutes). Reduce speed to low and add in ¼ cup cornstarch until combined. Keeping the speed on low, slowly add in (temper) the scalded milk. While the kitchen appliance stirs, rinse and clean the saucepan. Return the tempered yolk mixture to the saucepan and heat over medium low. Constantly stir the mixture with a wooden spoon, scraping the bottom diligently until the mixture separates. DO NOT PANIC, swap to a whisk and beat the mixture until it comes to a thick-homogenous “pudding” consistency (about 2 minutes). Remove from the heat, stir in 2 tablespoons unsalted butter, 2 teaspoons cognac, teaspoon pure vanilla extract and 2 tablespoons heavy cream. Push through a fine mesh sieve and chill.
For the tart shell:
I used to make my own pate brisee but have found that store bought raw pastry dough works just as well and leaves the kitchen without a fine layer of flour. I use a tart pan, with a removable bottom, that is approximately 13.5”l. x 4”w. This recipe will make two of these tarts.
Preheat the oven to 375°.
On a floured surface, roll out the dough to fit in the pan. The dough should fit about 1/4” above the rim without stretching or it will shrink. Butter some aluminum foil and fit it directly on the dough in the pan. Fill the aluminum with dried beans or rice to weight down the dough. Bake for 10 minutes. Remove the aluminum weight and prick the bottom of the pastry shell over with a fork. Return to the oven and bake an additional 15 minutes or until golden brown. Allow to cool completely before removing the finished pastry shell from the pan.
Cut 2 pints of strawberries in half or in quarter depending on their size.
Fill the tart shells with the pastry cream and line the perimeter with the cut strawberries. Fill in the inside with blueberries then top the center with bright red raspberries.
Thursday, February 17, 2011
A new website
The San Diego LGBT Weekly has launched its new website. Check it, and me, out at:
http://lgbtweekly.com/category/arts/bobbyr/
http://lgbtweekly.com/category/arts/bobbyr/
Friday, February 11, 2011
A Bitter-Sweet Valentine's Day: published 02/10/2011
As arbitrary as the observance of Valentine’s Day is associated with Chauncer’s Parliament of Foules, so too is an amount of bitterness I have in participating in the holiday for the sake of another’s liking. I should not allow something so silly to consume me but with that said, in any relationship whether amorous or platonic, there must be concessions. I will be sweet to my lover by cooking us a Valentine’s Day dinner but get my own satisfaction by using bitter ingredients in the cache.
Of the five perceivable taste sensations, the taste of bitter is interesting to me because, as well as producing a certain satisfaction to some people’s taste buds as is, in some cases it can be transformed into the sweet by the application of certain cooking methods. Onions are caramelized by slowly sautéing over low heat, eggplant’s bitterness is softened by soaking it in milk and radicchio is transformed to a marvelous bitter-sweet side after is has been slowly roasted.
Radicchio is one of my favorite bitter vegetables for its brilliant color. I like it too because it’s another vegetable that is underused simply because people don’t know what to do with it, which seems to be a recurring theme in these columns. In the recipe included, the radicchio will lend a beautiful red-purple color to the dish that will look nice for the Valentine’s Day theme. Radicchio can also be halved and grilled followed up with a sprinkle of Gorgonzola or braised in chicken stock as a simple addition to a weeknight dinner.
Whatever vegetable you may be confronting in the market, whether bitter and foreign or sweet and familiar, be open to experimentation. It is a good way to increase your diet and overall kitchen know how. So now I take the route of the eggplant, fixing myself a hot bath with a half gallon of milk and some rose petals. Hopefully it will soften the skin and my otherwise alkaline disposition before it is time to cook dinner for my sweetie.
Recipe:
Grapefruit and Miso glazed salmon on Jasmine-tea rice with roasted radicchio:
The recipe here will serve six, so unless you’re having guests over for Valentines Day reduce the fish and radicchio portion of the recipe. The rice recipe is difficult to reduce with respect to the liquid volume so plan on having left overs to turn into sticky rice, rice balls or whatever your bitter heart desires. The radicchio can be baked on the lower third of the oven and can stay in while broiling the fish to keep hot. The tannins in the Jasmine tea present a slightly bitter flavor also, that is nicely offset by the addition of sweetened coconut milk.
For the Radicchio:
Quarter three large heads of radicchio, leaving the base intact, and place into a bowl of cold salted water for 30 minutes.
Dry off the radicchio and toss the quarters in olive oil.
Gently separate the leaves and sprinkle shredded mozzarella in between.
Drizzle balsamic vinegar on and in the crevices of the radicchio quarters.
Bake for 30 minutes at 375° (or until otherwise softened).
For the Fish:
Whisk together:
1/3 c. yellow miso (red works too)
2 Tb grapefruit juice
1 Tb mirin (Japanese rice wine)
2 Tsp. soy sauce
1 Tsp dark brown sugar
1 Tsp grapefruit zest
Line a baking sheet with aluminum foil and preheat the broiler.
Coat the baking sheet with some olive oil and place six 6 oz. salmon filets on the sheet, skin side down leaving room between the filets.
Paint the miso mixture evenly onto the tops of all fish filets. Place the fish 6” under the broiler. Allow the fish to broil undil the tops have become golden and caramelized (about 5 minutes). Loosely cover the fish with foil and continue to broil an additional 5 minutes until cooked through.
For the Rice:
Bring to a boil 1 ¾ c. water. Steap a jasmine tea bag in the boiling water for three minutes. Remove the bag, reduce water to a simmer and add 1 ¼ c. jasmine or long grain rice. Cover and cook over low heat until the rice is tender (about 15 minutes). Allow the rice to rest for an additional 15 minutes. Add in ¼ sweetened coconut milk and fluff with a fork.
Balsamic vinegar reduction:
In a small sauté pan reduce ½ c. balsamic vinegar and 2 Tb sugar to ¼ c.
Be sure to warm your plates in the oven for a few minutes. Serve the salmon on top of the rice with the radicchio wedges to the side. Finish off the plate with a drizzled of balsamic vinegar reduction.
Of the five perceivable taste sensations, the taste of bitter is interesting to me because, as well as producing a certain satisfaction to some people’s taste buds as is, in some cases it can be transformed into the sweet by the application of certain cooking methods. Onions are caramelized by slowly sautéing over low heat, eggplant’s bitterness is softened by soaking it in milk and radicchio is transformed to a marvelous bitter-sweet side after is has been slowly roasted.
Radicchio is one of my favorite bitter vegetables for its brilliant color. I like it too because it’s another vegetable that is underused simply because people don’t know what to do with it, which seems to be a recurring theme in these columns. In the recipe included, the radicchio will lend a beautiful red-purple color to the dish that will look nice for the Valentine’s Day theme. Radicchio can also be halved and grilled followed up with a sprinkle of Gorgonzola or braised in chicken stock as a simple addition to a weeknight dinner.
Whatever vegetable you may be confronting in the market, whether bitter and foreign or sweet and familiar, be open to experimentation. It is a good way to increase your diet and overall kitchen know how. So now I take the route of the eggplant, fixing myself a hot bath with a half gallon of milk and some rose petals. Hopefully it will soften the skin and my otherwise alkaline disposition before it is time to cook dinner for my sweetie.
Recipe:
Grapefruit and Miso glazed salmon on Jasmine-tea rice with roasted radicchio:
The recipe here will serve six, so unless you’re having guests over for Valentines Day reduce the fish and radicchio portion of the recipe. The rice recipe is difficult to reduce with respect to the liquid volume so plan on having left overs to turn into sticky rice, rice balls or whatever your bitter heart desires. The radicchio can be baked on the lower third of the oven and can stay in while broiling the fish to keep hot. The tannins in the Jasmine tea present a slightly bitter flavor also, that is nicely offset by the addition of sweetened coconut milk.
For the Radicchio:
Quarter three large heads of radicchio, leaving the base intact, and place into a bowl of cold salted water for 30 minutes.
Dry off the radicchio and toss the quarters in olive oil.
Gently separate the leaves and sprinkle shredded mozzarella in between.
Drizzle balsamic vinegar on and in the crevices of the radicchio quarters.
Bake for 30 minutes at 375° (or until otherwise softened).
For the Fish:
Whisk together:
1/3 c. yellow miso (red works too)
2 Tb grapefruit juice
1 Tb mirin (Japanese rice wine)
2 Tsp. soy sauce
1 Tsp dark brown sugar
1 Tsp grapefruit zest
Line a baking sheet with aluminum foil and preheat the broiler.
Coat the baking sheet with some olive oil and place six 6 oz. salmon filets on the sheet, skin side down leaving room between the filets.
Paint the miso mixture evenly onto the tops of all fish filets. Place the fish 6” under the broiler. Allow the fish to broil undil the tops have become golden and caramelized (about 5 minutes). Loosely cover the fish with foil and continue to broil an additional 5 minutes until cooked through.
For the Rice:
Bring to a boil 1 ¾ c. water. Steap a jasmine tea bag in the boiling water for three minutes. Remove the bag, reduce water to a simmer and add 1 ¼ c. jasmine or long grain rice. Cover and cook over low heat until the rice is tender (about 15 minutes). Allow the rice to rest for an additional 15 minutes. Add in ¼ sweetened coconut milk and fluff with a fork.
Balsamic vinegar reduction:
In a small sauté pan reduce ½ c. balsamic vinegar and 2 Tb sugar to ¼ c.
Be sure to warm your plates in the oven for a few minutes. Serve the salmon on top of the rice with the radicchio wedges to the side. Finish off the plate with a drizzled of balsamic vinegar reduction.
Wednesday, February 9, 2011
Tasting the Intangible: published 02/03/2011
Some cultures perform(ed) ritual cannibalism believing that the consumption of the dead would bestow the vitality associated with the organs eaten. I do not suggest gnawing on your casketed uncle’s brain to gain his keen stock market sense but here, describe looking toward your food for the soul of the cook.
I had just gotten off the BART at Powell station in Union Square, San Franscisco; starving and looking for a quick lunch that would be delicious but not take a chunk out of my wallet. Being unfamiliar with the city, I turned to the Yelp application on my iPhone for help. Searching through restaurants filtered by the least expensive, I was drawn to a place called Crepe o Chocolat, holding four stars based off of 238 reviews (my overall opinion of yelp will be addressed in a future column).
The woman behind the counter was exotic looking with a mild French accent. She was abrupt with the answers to my questions and I would have left if I was not otherwise famished. Looking behind her, I noticed a handwritten chalk board sign reading “arugula salad: $7.00” and ordered the seemingly simple salad. Sylvie, I found out later she is called, turned her back to me and in the fashion of the Muppets’ sweetish chef, tossed some ingredients in a bowl with gesticulation. She turned to present me an overstuffed cardboard to go container and fork, took my seven dollars and said nothing.
I walked outside the cafe, opened the container and almost fell out of the chair when I saw heaping amounts of scarlet quinoa mixed with the bright arugula. I had low expectations for the containers’ contents based on Sylvie’s curt disposition but seeing this beautiful display, my mood quickly changed. I have always loved the grain as a substitution for rice or cous cous and seeing it before me put an immediate smile on my face.
Quinoa, pronounced “keen-wah”, is known for its high protein and low carbohydrate content. It also contains all eight essential amino acids humans do not produce. With these characteristics, it has been known as a “super-grain” or as “the mother grain” to the Incas who were first to discover its benefits.
Working my way deeper into the salad I was presented with more hidden treasures of braised brussel sprouts, roasted baby eggplant and a thick hummus like dressing. Each bite made me happier than the last as the flavors and textures danced in my mouth. I don’t know what spices she used or techniques were applied to the ingredients but what I could tell was there was a bit of her culinary spirit present in each bite; that I was eating a tradition special to her which left me with a feeling in my heart that is very hard to describe.
I look back at Sylvie’s rough customer service skills as a nuance unique to her. It made the lunch more special thinking that she was probably just as quirky as I am and what a relief I did not have to take a bite out of her arm to be satiated with her culinary skills. I hope that you will or have had a truly moving Foodie experience such as mine; instilling an intangible flavor to your heart, mind and soul.
Basic quinoa preparation:
Rinse thoroughly 1c. quinoa.
In deep large skillet or kitchen pan heat 1Tb olive oil over a medium heat until shimmering. Add in Tb minced garlic and sauté until just golden. Add in the rinsed quinoa stirring constantly until the grains are slightly browned and separated. Stir in 2c. chicken (or vegetable) stock and bring to a boil over high heat. Once boiling, reduce the heat so the liquid is at a simmer and continue to cook until the liquid has been absorbed (about 15 minutes). Fluff the quinoa with a fork and salt to taste.
Two-step variation for a dryer, fluffier quinoa:
(I think this preparation is best with scarlet quinoa that looks fine without the browning step that is included in the above preparation)
Rinse thoroughly 1 ½ c. quinoa rubbing through to separate the grains. Do this with the quinoa in a sieve that is set in a bowl of cold water. Rinse the quinoa in a couple changes of the water for a thorough cleanse and separation.
Boil the quinoa in a 4 qt. sauce pan with enough water to cover the grains for 10 minutes. Drain the quinoa in a sieve and rinse with cold water. In the same sauce pan, bring about 2” of water to a boil. Set the sieve containing the quinoa onto the saucepan being sure the water does not touch the bottom (if you do not have a sieve that sets on the top of the sauce pan, a cheese lined colander will work also). Cover the quinoa with a thin kitchen towel and lid being sure the edges of the towel are not hanging over so they won’t burn. Steam the quinoa for 10-15 minutes until fluffy. Remove the quinoa to a bowl and toss with olive oil and whatever other herbs or spices you would like. Quinoa can be served hot as a side, or chilled and mixed with a salad or made into a cold dish as you would a pasta pesto &c…
I had just gotten off the BART at Powell station in Union Square, San Franscisco; starving and looking for a quick lunch that would be delicious but not take a chunk out of my wallet. Being unfamiliar with the city, I turned to the Yelp application on my iPhone for help. Searching through restaurants filtered by the least expensive, I was drawn to a place called Crepe o Chocolat, holding four stars based off of 238 reviews (my overall opinion of yelp will be addressed in a future column).
The woman behind the counter was exotic looking with a mild French accent. She was abrupt with the answers to my questions and I would have left if I was not otherwise famished. Looking behind her, I noticed a handwritten chalk board sign reading “arugula salad: $7.00” and ordered the seemingly simple salad. Sylvie, I found out later she is called, turned her back to me and in the fashion of the Muppets’ sweetish chef, tossed some ingredients in a bowl with gesticulation. She turned to present me an overstuffed cardboard to go container and fork, took my seven dollars and said nothing.
I walked outside the cafe, opened the container and almost fell out of the chair when I saw heaping amounts of scarlet quinoa mixed with the bright arugula. I had low expectations for the containers’ contents based on Sylvie’s curt disposition but seeing this beautiful display, my mood quickly changed. I have always loved the grain as a substitution for rice or cous cous and seeing it before me put an immediate smile on my face.
Quinoa, pronounced “keen-wah”, is known for its high protein and low carbohydrate content. It also contains all eight essential amino acids humans do not produce. With these characteristics, it has been known as a “super-grain” or as “the mother grain” to the Incas who were first to discover its benefits.
Working my way deeper into the salad I was presented with more hidden treasures of braised brussel sprouts, roasted baby eggplant and a thick hummus like dressing. Each bite made me happier than the last as the flavors and textures danced in my mouth. I don’t know what spices she used or techniques were applied to the ingredients but what I could tell was there was a bit of her culinary spirit present in each bite; that I was eating a tradition special to her which left me with a feeling in my heart that is very hard to describe.
I look back at Sylvie’s rough customer service skills as a nuance unique to her. It made the lunch more special thinking that she was probably just as quirky as I am and what a relief I did not have to take a bite out of her arm to be satiated with her culinary skills. I hope that you will or have had a truly moving Foodie experience such as mine; instilling an intangible flavor to your heart, mind and soul.
Basic quinoa preparation:
Rinse thoroughly 1c. quinoa.
In deep large skillet or kitchen pan heat 1Tb olive oil over a medium heat until shimmering. Add in Tb minced garlic and sauté until just golden. Add in the rinsed quinoa stirring constantly until the grains are slightly browned and separated. Stir in 2c. chicken (or vegetable) stock and bring to a boil over high heat. Once boiling, reduce the heat so the liquid is at a simmer and continue to cook until the liquid has been absorbed (about 15 minutes). Fluff the quinoa with a fork and salt to taste.
Two-step variation for a dryer, fluffier quinoa:
(I think this preparation is best with scarlet quinoa that looks fine without the browning step that is included in the above preparation)
Rinse thoroughly 1 ½ c. quinoa rubbing through to separate the grains. Do this with the quinoa in a sieve that is set in a bowl of cold water. Rinse the quinoa in a couple changes of the water for a thorough cleanse and separation.
Boil the quinoa in a 4 qt. sauce pan with enough water to cover the grains for 10 minutes. Drain the quinoa in a sieve and rinse with cold water. In the same sauce pan, bring about 2” of water to a boil. Set the sieve containing the quinoa onto the saucepan being sure the water does not touch the bottom (if you do not have a sieve that sets on the top of the sauce pan, a cheese lined colander will work also). Cover the quinoa with a thin kitchen towel and lid being sure the edges of the towel are not hanging over so they won’t burn. Steam the quinoa for 10-15 minutes until fluffy. Remove the quinoa to a bowl and toss with olive oil and whatever other herbs or spices you would like. Quinoa can be served hot as a side, or chilled and mixed with a salad or made into a cold dish as you would a pasta pesto &c…
Thursday, January 27, 2011
Choke on This: published 01/27/2011
A much underused vegetable available local year round in San Diego is the artichoke. Initially, the prehistoric appearance is intimidating but once this column is read, will be as easy to prepare as a side dish of mashed potatoes.
The two most common types of the globe artichoke found in our markets are baby and adult. Baby artichokes can be steamed, sautéed, braised and fried after the outer leaves are removed exposing the bright green inner leaves. Adult artichokes require a little more work because of their size but give a far earthier flavor once steamed plain or stuffed.
Baby artichokes are eaten whole as long as cooked until very tender. The adult artichoke is a little more involved with respect to consumption: each of the outer leaves have a bit of “meat” on the base which is scraped off using your top teeth. A plain artichoke leaf can be dipped in butter or mayonnaise while a stuffed artichoke will distribute whichever flavors you chose for the filling.
Once all the leaves have been plucked and consumed of their “meat”, there remains the artichoke heart which is a bit like the prize at the bottom of a Cracker Jack box. The heart can be eaten whole with your fingers or cut with a fork and knife. Either way is a feeling of accomplishment but before get to the “heart” of the matter, the vegetable requires some preparation.
Cleaning the artichoke:
Once cut, the exposed surfaces of an artichoke will begin to oxidize, turning the flesh brown. Prevent the discoloration by having a bowl of cold, acidulated water close by; that is water that has had some lemon or vinegar mixed into it. Drop the artichokes in the water once they are cleaned or rub the surface with a halved lemon if they begin to brown too quickly.
Cut off the top ¼ of the artichoke using a serrated knife.
Snap back the outer most layers of leaves until you get to the very pale green ones.
Using kitchen shears, cut off any remaining hard, pointed tips from leaves.
Using a vegetable peeler or paring knife, shave off the outer layers of the base (and stem if still attached) until the softer flesh beneath is exposed.
For baby artichokes: cut in half length wise and remove any fuzz or purple leaves from the center. They are now ready to cook. For adult artichokes: invert the vegetable top down on your work surface. Gently push down in a circular motion spreading all the leaves away from the center. First pull out the purple leaves using your fingers as best you can then remove the remaining purple leaves and fuzz with a soup spoon or melon-baller.
I believe that the Jerusalem artichoke deserves a notable mention too. Also know as a Sunchoke, it is not an artichoke at all, instead a tuber from the sunflower family. It has a nutty-sweet flavor that is nice in salad and soups as well as numerous other applications. I bring it up here so that you may impress your friends by identifying this erroneous moniker the next time you are in the produce section.
Included here is a soup recipe using both globe and Jerusalem artichokes, giving an overall roundness to the flavor profile. Hurry up and prepare it before spring is here and hot soups are out.
Cream of Artichoke(s) Soup:
You will want to purchase 3 large globe artichokes with the longest stems you can find.
First squeeze the juice of ½ lemon into a large bowl of water and drop the lemon half in. Reserve the other half of the lemon to rub down all cut pieces of the artichoke and stem before dropping them into the acidulated water.
Working one at a time, cut off the stem of an artichoke. Using a vegetable peeler, strip away the outer layer of the stem until the pale core is exposed. Continue cleaning the artichoke as described in the column text. It is important to remove a bit more of the outer leave layers for this recipe so the soup will not be too fibrous. Here, cutting the artichoke into 8 wedges facilitates the removal of the purple leaves and remaining fuzz. Continue the process with the remaining two artichokes.
Peel ½ lbs of Jerusalem artichokes as you would a carrot and cut into ¼ inch pieces.
Using a 4-6 quart heavy pot or dutch oven, heat 2Tb butter and 2Tb olive oil over medium heat until the foam subsides. Add in:
½ c. diced onion
¼ c. diced celery stalks
and the Jerusalem artichoke pieces.
Sauté until tender (about 5 minutes)
Add in 1Tb chopped garlic and continue to sauté until the garlic is just golden (about 3 minutes)
Add in the trimmed artichoke wedges and stems drained from the acidulated water. Stir to coat all ingredients and add in a Tb more of oil if necessary. Continue to sauté until the Jerusalem artichokes are crisp and the globe artichoke pieces begin to slightly brown (an additional 5 minutes).
Add in ¾ c. dry vermouth, increase heat to medium high, release any browned bits from the bottom of the pot and reduce the volume by half (about 5 minutes).
Add in 4 c. of chicken stock (reference “stock”ing up at bobbyrpresents.blogspot.com) and simmer until the artichoke wedges are VERY tender which will take about 30 minutes. If you like a thicker soup, reduce the chicken stock volume to 3½ c.
Remove from the heat and puree the soup either in the pot with an immersion blender or in small batches using a counter blender being extremely cautious with the hot liquid.
Return the pot to medium heat and add in: 3/4 – 1c. heavy cream, depending on the consistency you like, plus salt and pepper to taste.
The two most common types of the globe artichoke found in our markets are baby and adult. Baby artichokes can be steamed, sautéed, braised and fried after the outer leaves are removed exposing the bright green inner leaves. Adult artichokes require a little more work because of their size but give a far earthier flavor once steamed plain or stuffed.
Baby artichokes are eaten whole as long as cooked until very tender. The adult artichoke is a little more involved with respect to consumption: each of the outer leaves have a bit of “meat” on the base which is scraped off using your top teeth. A plain artichoke leaf can be dipped in butter or mayonnaise while a stuffed artichoke will distribute whichever flavors you chose for the filling.
Once all the leaves have been plucked and consumed of their “meat”, there remains the artichoke heart which is a bit like the prize at the bottom of a Cracker Jack box. The heart can be eaten whole with your fingers or cut with a fork and knife. Either way is a feeling of accomplishment but before get to the “heart” of the matter, the vegetable requires some preparation.
Cleaning the artichoke:
Once cut, the exposed surfaces of an artichoke will begin to oxidize, turning the flesh brown. Prevent the discoloration by having a bowl of cold, acidulated water close by; that is water that has had some lemon or vinegar mixed into it. Drop the artichokes in the water once they are cleaned or rub the surface with a halved lemon if they begin to brown too quickly.
Cut off the top ¼ of the artichoke using a serrated knife.
Snap back the outer most layers of leaves until you get to the very pale green ones.
Using kitchen shears, cut off any remaining hard, pointed tips from leaves.
Using a vegetable peeler or paring knife, shave off the outer layers of the base (and stem if still attached) until the softer flesh beneath is exposed.
For baby artichokes: cut in half length wise and remove any fuzz or purple leaves from the center. They are now ready to cook. For adult artichokes: invert the vegetable top down on your work surface. Gently push down in a circular motion spreading all the leaves away from the center. First pull out the purple leaves using your fingers as best you can then remove the remaining purple leaves and fuzz with a soup spoon or melon-baller.
I believe that the Jerusalem artichoke deserves a notable mention too. Also know as a Sunchoke, it is not an artichoke at all, instead a tuber from the sunflower family. It has a nutty-sweet flavor that is nice in salad and soups as well as numerous other applications. I bring it up here so that you may impress your friends by identifying this erroneous moniker the next time you are in the produce section.
Included here is a soup recipe using both globe and Jerusalem artichokes, giving an overall roundness to the flavor profile. Hurry up and prepare it before spring is here and hot soups are out.
Cream of Artichoke(s) Soup:
You will want to purchase 3 large globe artichokes with the longest stems you can find.
First squeeze the juice of ½ lemon into a large bowl of water and drop the lemon half in. Reserve the other half of the lemon to rub down all cut pieces of the artichoke and stem before dropping them into the acidulated water.
Working one at a time, cut off the stem of an artichoke. Using a vegetable peeler, strip away the outer layer of the stem until the pale core is exposed. Continue cleaning the artichoke as described in the column text. It is important to remove a bit more of the outer leave layers for this recipe so the soup will not be too fibrous. Here, cutting the artichoke into 8 wedges facilitates the removal of the purple leaves and remaining fuzz. Continue the process with the remaining two artichokes.
Peel ½ lbs of Jerusalem artichokes as you would a carrot and cut into ¼ inch pieces.
Using a 4-6 quart heavy pot or dutch oven, heat 2Tb butter and 2Tb olive oil over medium heat until the foam subsides. Add in:
½ c. diced onion
¼ c. diced celery stalks
and the Jerusalem artichoke pieces.
Sauté until tender (about 5 minutes)
Add in 1Tb chopped garlic and continue to sauté until the garlic is just golden (about 3 minutes)
Add in the trimmed artichoke wedges and stems drained from the acidulated water. Stir to coat all ingredients and add in a Tb more of oil if necessary. Continue to sauté until the Jerusalem artichokes are crisp and the globe artichoke pieces begin to slightly brown (an additional 5 minutes).
Add in ¾ c. dry vermouth, increase heat to medium high, release any browned bits from the bottom of the pot and reduce the volume by half (about 5 minutes).
Add in 4 c. of chicken stock (reference “stock”ing up at bobbyrpresents.blogspot.com) and simmer until the artichoke wedges are VERY tender which will take about 30 minutes. If you like a thicker soup, reduce the chicken stock volume to 3½ c.
Remove from the heat and puree the soup either in the pot with an immersion blender or in small batches using a counter blender being extremely cautious with the hot liquid.
Return the pot to medium heat and add in: 3/4 – 1c. heavy cream, depending on the consistency you like, plus salt and pepper to taste.
Saturday, January 8, 2011
A Well Seasoned Veteran
While shopping for a cast-iron skillet, I found myself looking for the thickest bottom with the lowest weight (seriously). I now use this as a joke with respect to boyfriend shopping and luckily have found both, a perfect skillet and a perfect man.
What struck my interest to go after a cast-iron skillet? Maybe I was bored with my sauté pans or maybe I wanted to get back to basic, time-tested cookware. I definitely have enough pans in my kitchen and needed to asses the productivity this item would bestow. So, looking at the many things that I could do with the cast-iron, I was drawn by the overall usefulness and ubiquities this kitchen tool presents.
Aside from its simple yet elegant aesthetic, the cast-iron skillet is a kitchen work horse and a (personal) piece of nostalgia. It can be used to create almost everything in the kitchen that would otherwise require multiple pieces of cookware: Cornbread, soufflés, upside-down cakes, dumplings, seared meats and all things breakfast. The later item is where the nostalgia kicks in; growing up on a farm in Massachusetts, almost all our breakfasts were prepared in a cast-iron skillet. First, the bacon was cooked, rendering the fat that polymerizes with the metal surface, continually “seasoning” the pan. Then the eggs would be fried in the fat, spooning the residual grease over the tops of the eggs as to not have to flip them. It’s a wonder I did not grow up a fat kid.
Seasoning the pan is of much interest and importance to the maintenance and non-stick quality of the surface. Seasoning is nothing more than baking fat into the, otherwise, porous surface of the metal; creating a smooth coating that also prevents rust. This can be done by initially coating the pan with a thin layer of solid fat (I prefer bacon fat or lard but Crisco will work too), bake the pan upside down in a 350° oven with the windows open because it will smoke a little, for one hour.
Although purchased pre-seasoned and seasoned again at home, food materials have still been sticking to the pan mildly. This will subside after more time spent cooking fatty foods, the use of oil and proper cleaning. After use, I use water and a scrub brush to remove the residual food stuffs. After every use and gentle cleaning, rub the pan with a drizzle of olive oil and a pinch of coarse salt using a paper towel.
As mentioned before, when choosing a cast-iron skillet, you want to find one that has the thickest bottom but also the lowest weight. Although all are fairly heavy, one that is overly heavy can be cumbersome to a smaller cook when they need to swirl butter or even clean it. As for the bottom, the cast-iron skillet acts as an equilibrating liaison between the heat of the range and the food that you are cooking. The material itself conducts and holds heat, contributing an evenly heated work surface. The thicker the pan, the more heat it will hold, dropping fewer degrees in temperature when food is applied. I found a 12” Lodge Logic skillet at Crate and Barrel for $27.00 weighing in at 7.2 lbs with a bottom thickness of 5.5 millimeters.
With the greater amount of heat that the skillet will hold, it is important to adjust your cooking temperatures accordingly. This usually means using a lower heat for a longer time which will require a bit more patience. But any well seasoned veteran of the kitchen, like the cast-iron skillet, will persevere and withstand the test of time.
Cast-Iron Skillet Frittata with Bacon, Spinach and Parmesan:
Although my youth breakfasts were mostly fried or scrambled eggs, I now like to do something a bit fancier. The finished bubbling-browned frittata here is enough to feed eight people a conservative portion or a moderate breakfast/brunch (or even lunch) for six. I served it for some friends and my lover, with mimosas, when he was down for New Year’s weekend.
Pre heat broiler to low with the rack 6” from the heat source.
Heat a 10-12’ cast-iron skillet over medium-high and add in:
1 lbs bacon cut into ½ inch squares, stirring occasionally with a wooden spoon until just crisp. Remove with a slotted spoon and pour off all but ¼ c. of the fat. Reduce heat to medium-low, wait until the temperature drops, and sauté 3 minced cloves of garlic until barely golden*.
While cooking the bacon, rinse, remove stems and rough chop one large bunch of adult spinach.
In a separate bowl combine:
12 eggs
1 ½ c. half and half
¾ c. powdered parmesan cheese (picked through for lumps)
Small pinch of salt (the bacon will salt the dish greatly)
Tsp ground pepper
*Add in the spinach once the garlic is sautéed, turning over in the oil and cooking until barely wilted. Add in the egg mixture and the cooked bacon pieces, stir with the wooden spoon to combine and cook over medium heat until ¾ of the outer circumference is set (about 20 min.). Sprinkle the top of the frittata with ¼ - ½ c. thinly SHAVED parmesan cheese. Transfer the skillet to the broiler and allow to broil until the top is set and golden brown (about 7 min.). Allow to cool slightly before cutting it into slices like a pie. I served mine with some roasted fingerling potatoes, chopped parsley and sriracha hot chili sauce.
What struck my interest to go after a cast-iron skillet? Maybe I was bored with my sauté pans or maybe I wanted to get back to basic, time-tested cookware. I definitely have enough pans in my kitchen and needed to asses the productivity this item would bestow. So, looking at the many things that I could do with the cast-iron, I was drawn by the overall usefulness and ubiquities this kitchen tool presents.
Aside from its simple yet elegant aesthetic, the cast-iron skillet is a kitchen work horse and a (personal) piece of nostalgia. It can be used to create almost everything in the kitchen that would otherwise require multiple pieces of cookware: Cornbread, soufflés, upside-down cakes, dumplings, seared meats and all things breakfast. The later item is where the nostalgia kicks in; growing up on a farm in Massachusetts, almost all our breakfasts were prepared in a cast-iron skillet. First, the bacon was cooked, rendering the fat that polymerizes with the metal surface, continually “seasoning” the pan. Then the eggs would be fried in the fat, spooning the residual grease over the tops of the eggs as to not have to flip them. It’s a wonder I did not grow up a fat kid.
Seasoning the pan is of much interest and importance to the maintenance and non-stick quality of the surface. Seasoning is nothing more than baking fat into the, otherwise, porous surface of the metal; creating a smooth coating that also prevents rust. This can be done by initially coating the pan with a thin layer of solid fat (I prefer bacon fat or lard but Crisco will work too), bake the pan upside down in a 350° oven with the windows open because it will smoke a little, for one hour.
Although purchased pre-seasoned and seasoned again at home, food materials have still been sticking to the pan mildly. This will subside after more time spent cooking fatty foods, the use of oil and proper cleaning. After use, I use water and a scrub brush to remove the residual food stuffs. After every use and gentle cleaning, rub the pan with a drizzle of olive oil and a pinch of coarse salt using a paper towel.
As mentioned before, when choosing a cast-iron skillet, you want to find one that has the thickest bottom but also the lowest weight. Although all are fairly heavy, one that is overly heavy can be cumbersome to a smaller cook when they need to swirl butter or even clean it. As for the bottom, the cast-iron skillet acts as an equilibrating liaison between the heat of the range and the food that you are cooking. The material itself conducts and holds heat, contributing an evenly heated work surface. The thicker the pan, the more heat it will hold, dropping fewer degrees in temperature when food is applied. I found a 12” Lodge Logic skillet at Crate and Barrel for $27.00 weighing in at 7.2 lbs with a bottom thickness of 5.5 millimeters.
With the greater amount of heat that the skillet will hold, it is important to adjust your cooking temperatures accordingly. This usually means using a lower heat for a longer time which will require a bit more patience. But any well seasoned veteran of the kitchen, like the cast-iron skillet, will persevere and withstand the test of time.
Cast-Iron Skillet Frittata with Bacon, Spinach and Parmesan:
Although my youth breakfasts were mostly fried or scrambled eggs, I now like to do something a bit fancier. The finished bubbling-browned frittata here is enough to feed eight people a conservative portion or a moderate breakfast/brunch (or even lunch) for six. I served it for some friends and my lover, with mimosas, when he was down for New Year’s weekend.
Pre heat broiler to low with the rack 6” from the heat source.
Heat a 10-12’ cast-iron skillet over medium-high and add in:
1 lbs bacon cut into ½ inch squares, stirring occasionally with a wooden spoon until just crisp. Remove with a slotted spoon and pour off all but ¼ c. of the fat. Reduce heat to medium-low, wait until the temperature drops, and sauté 3 minced cloves of garlic until barely golden*.
While cooking the bacon, rinse, remove stems and rough chop one large bunch of adult spinach.
In a separate bowl combine:
12 eggs
1 ½ c. half and half
¾ c. powdered parmesan cheese (picked through for lumps)
Small pinch of salt (the bacon will salt the dish greatly)
Tsp ground pepper
*Add in the spinach once the garlic is sautéed, turning over in the oil and cooking until barely wilted. Add in the egg mixture and the cooked bacon pieces, stir with the wooden spoon to combine and cook over medium heat until ¾ of the outer circumference is set (about 20 min.). Sprinkle the top of the frittata with ¼ - ½ c. thinly SHAVED parmesan cheese. Transfer the skillet to the broiler and allow to broil until the top is set and golden brown (about 7 min.). Allow to cool slightly before cutting it into slices like a pie. I served mine with some roasted fingerling potatoes, chopped parsley and sriracha hot chili sauce.
Tuesday, January 4, 2011
Diet Rehab
The time period just after the turn of the year always cracks me up. Every food magazine boasting healthy recipes for 20XX, new exercise regimes at every turn, a spike in new or renewed gym memberships and an increased attendance at AA meetings. Of all these things, the tag line “Eat Better in 2011” on the cover of Bon Appetit reached out to me the most.
Eating better is not necessarily a complete change of your diet but can be an alteration of the diet one already eats; slowly incorporating subtle changes that are practical, plausible and tasty may be the key to fulfilling the goal. Instead of a 12 step program, to eat better one could, focus on ingredient quality, portions, and the environment in which the meals are eaten.
When was it that we forgot that the periphery of the supermarket is the best place to shop? If shoppers focus their basket contents to this region, it supplies fresher meat, breads, dairy and vegetables than the processed foods occupying the bulk of the center. And as a side note, processed foods boasting “low fat” will usually be higher in sugar than their regular counterpart.
There is a general theory called the French Paradox which presents the conundrum that, although French culture eats rich food high in fat, they have lower incidence of obesity and heart disease than Americans. The consensus is that the French eat less food more frequently and the food consumed is of better quality, less sugar and fewer processed ingredients. The easiest way to apply this to a diet is to include more vegetables and less meat and starch.
The inclusion of more vegetables to the plate immediately reduces the caloric intake and increases the nutritional content of the meal. Underused vegetables, easy to prepare and very good for the liver, are dark greens such as kale and chard. They can be braised in some stock or sautéed in oil with salt to substantiate the meal. An easy recipe is presented here in the side box.
Whether as a supplement or an addition to your diet, drinking juiced fruits and vegetables will increase the amounts of nutrients to your uptake naturally, foregoing supplements that may or may not be able to be absorbed by your body. And not all juicing requires a specialized fruit juicer. Many recipes that have a liquid base such as orange or pineapple juice can be easily made using a counter top or hand held immersion blender.
At the Farmer’s Market a guy sells juiced dark greens with whole apple and apple juice called GreenFix Organic Smoothie. The greens are Kale, Dandelion, Collard, Chard, Spinach, Romaine Lettuce, and Parsley. Also included are banana and Flax seed. I buy one 32 oz. bottle each Friday at the Mission Hills Farmers’ Market that lasts me the four days of its shelf life.
Eating on the go is probably one of the most deleterious habits to a healthy diet. When your mind is multitasking during food consumption, it is not free to asses your body’s doneness. When on the go, the only goal is to consume what you have in hand to fill you up; meaning, you will eat everything in front of you because that is the only goal. No enjoyment, no time spent for you. If you must eat on the go, use a homemade smoothie or the GreenFix from the farmers’ market to supply the necessary nutrition.
I suggest reading In Defense of Food by Michael Pollan as an easy to understand manifesto of how to eat better. It has greatly helped me understand and improve my eating habits as well as supply many wonderful references for further reading. I hope this column sees you well and all your resolutions are successful.
Braised Greens
One bunch of dark greens at the super market will be enough for three people. The only caveat to the greens is that they initially take up a lot of space in the pan until they are heated through and reduce in volume.
Run a knife down the sides of the greens’ stalks, separating the stalks from the leafy product.
Half the stalk lengthwise and run your knife down the stalk chopping ¼ inch thick pieces.
Roughly chop the greens and set aside.
In a large sauté pan heat 3Tb oil over a medium high heat until shimmering. Add the stalk pieces and sauté until tender, about 5 minutes.
Add in 2 minced cloves of garlic and sauté until slightly golden, about 2 minutes.
Add in ¼ c. of chicken or vegetable stock, turn heat to high and add the leafy greens. The greens will probably overflow over the sides of the pan but. Throw a lid over the greens and let sit undisturbed 3 minutes. Remove the lid, give a good turn with thongs and reduce the heat to medium low. Continue to braise until the leaves are wilted. Sprinkle with salt and pepper and serve.
Eating better is not necessarily a complete change of your diet but can be an alteration of the diet one already eats; slowly incorporating subtle changes that are practical, plausible and tasty may be the key to fulfilling the goal. Instead of a 12 step program, to eat better one could, focus on ingredient quality, portions, and the environment in which the meals are eaten.
When was it that we forgot that the periphery of the supermarket is the best place to shop? If shoppers focus their basket contents to this region, it supplies fresher meat, breads, dairy and vegetables than the processed foods occupying the bulk of the center. And as a side note, processed foods boasting “low fat” will usually be higher in sugar than their regular counterpart.
There is a general theory called the French Paradox which presents the conundrum that, although French culture eats rich food high in fat, they have lower incidence of obesity and heart disease than Americans. The consensus is that the French eat less food more frequently and the food consumed is of better quality, less sugar and fewer processed ingredients. The easiest way to apply this to a diet is to include more vegetables and less meat and starch.
The inclusion of more vegetables to the plate immediately reduces the caloric intake and increases the nutritional content of the meal. Underused vegetables, easy to prepare and very good for the liver, are dark greens such as kale and chard. They can be braised in some stock or sautéed in oil with salt to substantiate the meal. An easy recipe is presented here in the side box.
Whether as a supplement or an addition to your diet, drinking juiced fruits and vegetables will increase the amounts of nutrients to your uptake naturally, foregoing supplements that may or may not be able to be absorbed by your body. And not all juicing requires a specialized fruit juicer. Many recipes that have a liquid base such as orange or pineapple juice can be easily made using a counter top or hand held immersion blender.
At the Farmer’s Market a guy sells juiced dark greens with whole apple and apple juice called GreenFix Organic Smoothie. The greens are Kale, Dandelion, Collard, Chard, Spinach, Romaine Lettuce, and Parsley. Also included are banana and Flax seed. I buy one 32 oz. bottle each Friday at the Mission Hills Farmers’ Market that lasts me the four days of its shelf life.
Eating on the go is probably one of the most deleterious habits to a healthy diet. When your mind is multitasking during food consumption, it is not free to asses your body’s doneness. When on the go, the only goal is to consume what you have in hand to fill you up; meaning, you will eat everything in front of you because that is the only goal. No enjoyment, no time spent for you. If you must eat on the go, use a homemade smoothie or the GreenFix from the farmers’ market to supply the necessary nutrition.
I suggest reading In Defense of Food by Michael Pollan as an easy to understand manifesto of how to eat better. It has greatly helped me understand and improve my eating habits as well as supply many wonderful references for further reading. I hope this column sees you well and all your resolutions are successful.
Braised Greens
One bunch of dark greens at the super market will be enough for three people. The only caveat to the greens is that they initially take up a lot of space in the pan until they are heated through and reduce in volume.
Run a knife down the sides of the greens’ stalks, separating the stalks from the leafy product.
Half the stalk lengthwise and run your knife down the stalk chopping ¼ inch thick pieces.
Roughly chop the greens and set aside.
In a large sauté pan heat 3Tb oil over a medium high heat until shimmering. Add the stalk pieces and sauté until tender, about 5 minutes.
Add in 2 minced cloves of garlic and sauté until slightly golden, about 2 minutes.
Add in ¼ c. of chicken or vegetable stock, turn heat to high and add the leafy greens. The greens will probably overflow over the sides of the pan but. Throw a lid over the greens and let sit undisturbed 3 minutes. Remove the lid, give a good turn with thongs and reduce the heat to medium low. Continue to braise until the leaves are wilted. Sprinkle with salt and pepper and serve.
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