A Bitter-Sweet Valentine's Day: published 02/10/2011

As arbitrary as the observance of Valentine’s Day is associated with Chauncer’s Parliament of Foules, so too is an amount of bitterness I have in participating in the holiday for the sake of another’s liking. I should not allow something so silly to consume me but with that said, in any relationship whether amorous or platonic, there must be concessions. I will be sweet to my lover by cooking us a Valentine’s Day dinner but get my own satisfaction by using bitter ingredients in the cache.

Of the five perceivable taste sensations, the taste of bitter is interesting to me because, as well as producing a certain satisfaction to some people’s taste buds as is, in some cases it can be transformed into the sweet by the application of certain cooking methods. Onions are caramelized by slowly sautéing over low heat, eggplant’s bitterness is softened by soaking it in milk and radicchio is transformed to a marvelous bitter-sweet side after is has been slowly roasted.

Radicchio is one of my favorite bitter vegetables for its brilliant color. I like it too because it’s another vegetable that is underused simply because people don’t know what to do with it, which seems to be a recurring theme in these columns. In the recipe included, the radicchio will lend a beautiful red-purple color to the dish that will look nice for the Valentine’s Day theme. Radicchio can also be halved and grilled followed up with a sprinkle of Gorgonzola or braised in chicken stock as a simple addition to a weeknight dinner.

Whatever vegetable you may be confronting in the market, whether bitter and foreign or sweet and familiar, be open to experimentation. It is a good way to increase your diet and overall kitchen know how. So now I take the route of the eggplant, fixing myself a hot bath with a half gallon of milk and some rose petals. Hopefully it will soften the skin and my otherwise alkaline disposition before it is time to cook dinner for my sweetie.

Recipe:
Grapefruit and Miso glazed salmon on Jasmine-tea rice with roasted radicchio:

The recipe here will serve six, so unless you’re having guests over for Valentines Day reduce the fish and radicchio portion of the recipe. The rice recipe is difficult to reduce with respect to the liquid volume so plan on having left overs to turn into sticky rice, rice balls or whatever your bitter heart desires. The radicchio can be baked on the lower third of the oven and can stay in while broiling the fish to keep hot. The tannins in the Jasmine tea present a slightly bitter flavor also, that is nicely offset by the addition of sweetened coconut milk.

For the Radicchio:
Quarter three large heads of radicchio, leaving the base intact, and place into a bowl of cold salted water for 30 minutes.
Dry off the radicchio and toss the quarters in olive oil.
Gently separate the leaves and sprinkle shredded mozzarella in between.
Drizzle balsamic vinegar on and in the crevices of the radicchio quarters.
Bake for 30 minutes at 375° (or until otherwise softened).

For the Fish:
Whisk together:
1/3 c. yellow miso (red works too)
2 Tb grapefruit juice
1 Tb mirin (Japanese rice wine)
2 Tsp. soy sauce
1 Tsp dark brown sugar
1 Tsp grapefruit zest

Line a baking sheet with aluminum foil and preheat the broiler.
Coat the baking sheet with some olive oil and place six 6 oz. salmon filets on the sheet, skin side down leaving room between the filets.

Paint the miso mixture evenly onto the tops of all fish filets. Place the fish 6” under the broiler. Allow the fish to broil undil the tops have become golden and caramelized (about 5 minutes). Loosely cover the fish with foil and continue to broil an additional 5 minutes until cooked through.

For the Rice:

Bring to a boil 1 ¾ c. water. Steap a jasmine tea bag in the boiling water for three minutes. Remove the bag, reduce water to a simmer and add 1 ¼ c. jasmine or long grain rice. Cover and cook over low heat until the rice is tender (about 15 minutes). Allow the rice to rest for an additional 15 minutes. Add in ¼ sweetened coconut milk and fluff with a fork.


Balsamic vinegar reduction:
In a small sauté pan reduce ½ c. balsamic vinegar and 2 Tb sugar to ¼ c.

Be sure to warm your plates in the oven for a few minutes. Serve the salmon on top of the rice with the radicchio wedges to the side. Finish off the plate with a drizzled of balsamic vinegar reduction.

Tasting the Intangible: published 02/03/2011

Some cultures perform(ed) ritual cannibalism believing that the consumption of the dead would bestow the vitality associated with the organs eaten. I do not suggest gnawing on your casketed uncle’s brain to gain his keen stock market sense but here, describe looking toward your food for the soul of the cook.

I had just gotten off the BART at Powell station in Union Square, San Franscisco; starving and looking for a quick lunch that would be delicious but not take a chunk out of my wallet. Being unfamiliar with the city, I turned to the Yelp application on my iPhone for help. Searching through restaurants filtered by the least expensive, I was drawn to a place called Crepe o Chocolat, holding four stars based off of 238 reviews (my overall opinion of yelp will be addressed in a future column).

The woman behind the counter was exotic looking with a mild French accent. She was abrupt with the answers to my questions and I would have left if I was not otherwise famished. Looking behind her, I noticed a handwritten chalk board sign reading “arugula salad: $7.00” and ordered the seemingly simple salad. Sylvie, I found out later she is called, turned her back to me and in the fashion of the Muppets’ sweetish chef, tossed some ingredients in a bowl with gesticulation. She turned to present me an overstuffed cardboard to go container and fork, took my seven dollars and said nothing.

I walked outside the cafe, opened the container and almost fell out of the chair when I saw heaping amounts of scarlet quinoa mixed with the bright arugula. I had low expectations for the containers’ contents based on Sylvie’s curt disposition but seeing this beautiful display, my mood quickly changed. I have always loved the grain as a substitution for rice or cous cous and seeing it before me put an immediate smile on my face.

Quinoa, pronounced “keen-wah”, is known for its high protein and low carbohydrate content. It also contains all eight essential amino acids humans do not produce. With these characteristics, it has been known as a “super-grain” or as “the mother grain” to the Incas who were first to discover its benefits.

Working my way deeper into the salad I was presented with more hidden treasures of braised brussel sprouts, roasted baby eggplant and a thick hummus like dressing. Each bite made me happier than the last as the flavors and textures danced in my mouth. I don’t know what spices she used or techniques were applied to the ingredients but what I could tell was there was a bit of her culinary spirit present in each bite; that I was eating a tradition special to her which left me with a feeling in my heart that is very hard to describe.

I look back at Sylvie’s rough customer service skills as a nuance unique to her. It made the lunch more special thinking that she was probably just as quirky as I am and what a relief I did not have to take a bite out of her arm to be satiated with her culinary skills. I hope that you will or have had a truly moving Foodie experience such as mine; instilling an intangible flavor to your heart, mind and soul.

Basic quinoa preparation:

Rinse thoroughly 1c. quinoa.
In deep large skillet or kitchen pan heat 1Tb olive oil over a medium heat until shimmering. Add in Tb minced garlic and sauté until just golden. Add in the rinsed quinoa stirring constantly until the grains are slightly browned and separated. Stir in 2c. chicken (or vegetable) stock and bring to a boil over high heat. Once boiling, reduce the heat so the liquid is at a simmer and continue to cook until the liquid has been absorbed (about 15 minutes). Fluff the quinoa with a fork and salt to taste.

Two-step variation for a dryer, fluffier quinoa:
(I think this preparation is best with scarlet quinoa that looks fine without the browning step that is included in the above preparation)

Rinse thoroughly 1 ½ c. quinoa rubbing through to separate the grains. Do this with the quinoa in a sieve that is set in a bowl of cold water. Rinse the quinoa in a couple changes of the water for a thorough cleanse and separation.

Boil the quinoa in a 4 qt. sauce pan with enough water to cover the grains for 10 minutes. Drain the quinoa in a sieve and rinse with cold water. In the same sauce pan, bring about 2” of water to a boil. Set the sieve containing the quinoa onto the saucepan being sure the water does not touch the bottom (if you do not have a sieve that sets on the top of the sauce pan, a cheese lined colander will work also). Cover the quinoa with a thin kitchen towel and lid being sure the edges of the towel are not hanging over so they won’t burn. Steam the quinoa for 10-15 minutes until fluffy. Remove the quinoa to a bowl and toss with olive oil and whatever other herbs or spices you would like. Quinoa can be served hot as a side, or chilled and mixed with a salad or made into a cold dish as you would a pasta pesto &c…