Wednesday, April 27, 2011

Curing a Boring Menu: published 04/21/2011

Most Holidays I can think of encompass foods that are saturated in tradition whether it is familial, religious or secular. For me Easter encompasses all three, each lending a particular aspect to the annual brunch I throw. I also incorporate foods of another religious celebration because of the diversity and respect it contributes to the overall meal: Passover. This Jewish celebration of freedom from slavery normally falls close to Easter and is readily recognized but I feel it is less understood than the Easter story. I was originally going to write an Easter specific column but with the aforementioned thought, I thought I would outline Passover for the non-Jewish reader.

I am not Jewish nor am I an expert by any means but I have participated in about a dozen Seders and admire the passion and extreme wealth of ancestral brotherhood associated with it. A Seder is the name of the meal eaten at sundown on the first day of Passover and literally translates to “order” or “sequence” for good reason. During the meal, participants recount the story of Exodus through religious readings from the Haggadah and use specific foods on the Seder plate to symbolize different aspects of their troubles and ultimate freedom from Egyptian slavery.

In the story of Exodus, God sends ten plagues over Egypt to show his power and ultimate want for the freedom of the Jews. These plagues are recognizable in celluloid accounts of the End of Days (think locusts and frogs raining from the sky) and in fact the entire story of Exodus is portrayed again and again in films. The final and most extreme plague was the death of all the first born sons (which would include the pharaoh’s). The Jews were instructed to slaughter a spring lamb and smear the blood above their doors; indicating to the sweeping Angel of Death to “Passover” the abode, sparing the Jewish children.

Other aspects of the Exodus are presented on the Seder plate which can vary slightly depending on sect but maintain homogeneity in the symbolism: First, raw vegetables such as celery, parsley or endive are dipped into salt water that represents the tears cried during the enslavement; next is a lamb shank that is there representing the paschal lamb sacrificed to save their first born; a boiled egg is used to symbolize the mournful reminder of the destroyed temple; unleavened bread, or matzo (probably the most recognizable), shows the haste in which the Jews left Egypt allowing no time for their bread to rise; bitter herbs, such as horseradish, are eaten to remind the participants of the cruel and bitter treatment endured while enslaved; and lastly a mixture of fruit wine and nuts, called Haroset, resembles the mortar used while building the pyramids.

I have made a Haroset for a Seder and also use it as chutney for roasted lamb on Easter. I mix together 2/3 cups dried figs, 2/3 cups dried apricot, 1/3 cups pitted dates all finely chopped with 1 1/3 cups toasted-chopped walnuts and ¼ cup Manischewitz. I like to season the mixture to taste with cinnamon, cayenne and ginger and substitute a Riesling when making it for a non Seder fare.

Of course you cannot fill up on matzo and bitter herbs, so once the readings are over and remembrance is giving to the ancestral strife, it’s time to eat. Many aspects of the Seder plate can be incorporated into the Passover meal such as matzo ball soup, horseradish mashed potatoes, braised lamb shanks, or a parsley and endive salad. Another item frequently on the table and also present at my Easter is fish. I will normally poach a whole salmon and doll it up a la the ‘90’s but another (and much easier) option is to cure some salmon at home. I like to use roasted beets (included recipe) that stain the outer edge of the fish with a nice bright red that contrasts nicely with the pinkish-orange hue.

Whether Easter or Passover, Christmas or Hanukkah, or Kwanzaa for that matter; look to other cultures and religions for your meals’ inspiration. Food is argued to be the building blocks of cultural evolution and I can think of no better way to broaden your mind and pallet. Perhaps this Easter you might sneak in some Seder ingredients of your own.

Beet Cured Salmon:

This recipe will have to be pre planned as it takes 4 days to cure.

Dry Mix:

Combine:

¼ c. salt

¼ c. sugar

2 Tb crushed white peppercorns

Zest of: 2 lemons, 3 limes and 1 orange

Tsp curry

Aside: Roast 2 large beets wrapped in foil with olive oil at 450 degrees for 45 minutes. Cool, rub off the skins and finely grate.

Take a ½ inch thick, 3 pound, boneless salmon filet with the skin on and cut in half width-wise.

Apply the dry rub evenly to the flesh of both halves.

Place a single layer of fresh dill sprigs on one half of the flesh and place the other half on top so that the flesh of both halves are together.

In a pyrex, lay down enough plastic wrap that will cover the bottom and overlap the sides by about half the width of the pyrex.

Sprinkle ½ of the grated beet on the bottom, add the salmon, sprinkle the remaining beet on top and pour in ¼ c. vodka.

Wrap the fish tightly with the plastic wrap and weigh down with another pyrex filled with soup cans or a brick.

Refrigerate for 4 days and flip every 12 hours.

Once cured, rinse off all excess dry rub and dry the salmon.

To serve: slice the salmon thinly width-wise with some softened cream cheese and endive spears.

Hey Mary: published 04/07/2011

As a lighthouse guides a ship through the fog, so too does the idea of the Bloody Mary guide those through the fog of a hangover; out of their sleeping quarters and off to brunch. And I’m assuming after the White Party, Bloody Mary sales will be up and drinkers may even look like the scary legend of a tear, blood and makeup-smeared ghoulish woman peering back at you in the mirror of a darkened bathroom.

Bloody Mary’s come in all shapes and forms these days: made with bourbon, served with beef jerky, celery-salted rims, skewers of grilled shrimp. The derivations are many but the end results are the same, a drink that acts almost as a meal to those who might be a bit nauseous to the idea of solid foods. And depending on the ingredients chosen, this liquid meal is providing the nutritional requirements for stamina throughout the day. The recipe provided uses V8 juice which is loaded in vitamins and minerals.

But since everyone’s tastes differ all so slightly, if you are having a brunch at home, I like to have a build your own bloody Mary bar. I provide a moderately spiked and unassertive base-mix and also side bottles of the Mary mix contents and vegetables on the side. Specific items include but are not limited to: different types of hot sauce including Cholula, Tabasco and the smoked chipotle sauce from Trader Joe’s; other sauces and condiments such as Worcestershire, prepared horseradish and whole grain Dijon are good to have also. For the produce accoutrement I include pickled green beans, raw cucumbers, pickled cauliflower and carrots, celery and romaine hearts, olives, and wedges of lime and lemon.

For a Bloody Mary bar, be sure to provide plenty of ice and maybe even little signs for the vegetables. You could go further and make two or three different mixes for your guests to choose. Do not forget straws, cocktail napkins, a pepper mill and a dish of celery salt to rim the glasses if desired. And the most important thing, in my opinion, is having a shaker handy so that the Mary’s can easily be homogenized, versus the mess of trying to stir all those amazing ingredients with a straw.

I developed the recipe provided by having a bloody Mary tasting party. I invited over eight people on an early Sunday afternoon in 2006 and had pre-prepared four separate mixes. I made note cards with tasting notes; ascribing a 1-5 with respect to the heat, acidity, sweetness, salty, etc. and provided room for personal notes. This party was a hoot. I provided some of my favorite brunch fare and received the input to make the best Bloody Mary for all my friends at the next brunch gathering.

I hope you will all be safe while gallivanting around this weekend. Don’t forget to pre-fill those flasks, program the taxi cab numbers in your phone, and pre-set your alarm clock. And most importantly, don’t forget that a sick day taken the monday after the White Party may be regarded as an obvious hangover day. Have fun and enjoy your bloody’s.

Bob’s Ultimate Bloody Mary:

This bloody Mary mix is thicker than the usual but still quite drinkable. The recipe will serve about 20-25 people so reserve it for a party or scale it down for individual consumption. This is a hybrid of 4 separate recipes I tried and tasting notes from my friends. Be sure to let your guests know if you choose to pre-spike it.

4 cups V8 (I prefer the antioxidant variety if available)

4 cups Clamato Juice

Tablespoon prepared horseradish

2 teaspoons very finely grated onion

2 tablespoons Tabasco

4 tablespoons olive juice

2 juiced lemons

2 juiced limes

1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce

8 halved and chopped celery hearts

1 teaspoon celery salt

Homogenize the above ingredients with an immersion blender (or in batches using a counter blender)

Stir in 3 cups vodka

Serve with stalks of celery hearts and a celery-salted rim (if desired)

Bobby is Back

Hello food fans. I took a brief hiatus from the blog but now I'm back and presenting.

Thursday, March 31, 2011

Cukes not Nukes

In the next few weeks, if not already, we will see the beginning of the cucumber season that will last us through the summer. Being common to almost all Americans, the cucumber probably does not receive the recognition it deserves and falls easily to the background. Here, I look at different uses for the vegetable aside from placing rounds over the eyes to reduce heavy bags or the cold cucumber salad.

Cucumbers, or cukes as my grandmother called them, are part of the gourd family which is funny to me because they are softer skinned with such a soft flesh. For me, the cukes’ high water content and subtle melon flavor are the contributions that make them so refreshing. Aside from pickling and eating raw in salads or plain with some salt at the taco shop, I like to juice cucumbers. The water is then used in many applications such as cocktails and lemonade, emulsions for a fancy summer dish, a braising liquid for fish or used to make sorbet.

To juice a cucumber, simply peel off the skin, cut it into rounds and puree using an immersion blender or counter blender. The pulp and liquid once sieved will produce approximately ½ cup of juice for each common cucumber. An English cucumber, which is longer with less seeds, will give slightly more.

My two favorite cocktail recipes using cucumber are both gin based but vodka could easily be substituted. The first: I infuse a bottle of gin with cucumber flavor by soaking peeled, chopped cukes in the gin for three days then strain. Pour the gin over ice with the juice of half a lime and some simple syrup. I shake the heck out of it then top it off with club soda. I assure even someone who doesn’t like gin will fall in love. The second gives a stronger punch: I make a traditional gin martini using dry vermouth and Hendrick’s gin, which already has notes of cucumber, and muddle two cucumber rounds in the shaker with a very small sprig of thyme. After shaken and strained into a chilled martini glass, I garnish with a floating sprig of thyme and a cucumber round cut to fit on the side of the glass.

It may seem counter intuitive, and a little pretentious, to use cucumber water in a hot dish but used as an emulsion or cooking liquid, the cucumber water adds its flare to a nice fish dinner (recipe included) and wows your guests. I found another hot dish that uses the flesh of the cucumber written by James Beard in his book Beard on Food. He suggests peeling then cutting the cucumber into matchsticks (julienne cut), squeezing the water out of them with a kitchen towel and steaming them in butter with tarragon and lemon juice. I have tried this process a couple times which is very mild in flavor and best served as a starter garnished with sorbet.

The sorbet I make with the cucumber water is a throw back to Bath and Body Works’ line of cucumber and melon scented products. First make a simple syrup using ½ cup sugar, ½ cup light corn syrup and ¾ cup water. Once chilled; mix the simple syrup with 1½ cups cucumber water and ½ cup midori then apply to the ice cream maker per the manufacturer’s instructions. Once hardened, the sorbet is great on its own or as a garnish for a gazpacho. I have also seen it served with peppered, seared ahi called “Fire and Ice”.

We have looked at cucumber water used in drinks, as dessert and a savory main dish. I hope these examples have opened your mind to a new realm of cuke use and you will use the many days of spring and summer ahead to experiment. I know that I will keep myself refreshed with a cucumber cocktail and busy in the kitchen looking for other ways to utilize the many varieties I will find at the farmers’ market.

Pan Braised Hallibut with cucumber water emulsion:

In a small sauce pan sauté 2 tablespoons shallot until translucent.

Add in 2 teaspoons white pepper, 1 cup cucumber water, 1 cup chicken stock,. Bring to a simmer and reduce the volume by half. Remove from heat and swirl in 8 tablespoons of cubed butter.

Once the butter has melted, transfer the liquid to a blender, add in ¼ cup chicken stalk and blend to emulsify, about 30 seconds. Season to taste with salt and toss in 2 tablespoons chopped tarragon, mix with a spoon and set aside.

Start with 4 halibut steaks about 1 ½ inches thick. Pat dry and sprinkle with salt and pepper. In a heavy, oven-proof skillet, heat one tablespoon of vegetable oil until just before it smokes. Add the fish and allow to brown over the high heat for about 2-3 minutes. Turn the fish over and add in enough of the cucumber emulsion to cover the bottom third of the fish. Transfer the pan to the middle rack of a 400° oven and continue to cook for an additional 5 minutes. The fish is done when the flesh is opaque all the way through.

Serve the fish over risotto, or lentils in a shallow bowl with some of the cucumber emulsion, fresh chopped tomato and grilled asparagus. Garnish the top of the fish with a tarragon sprig and enjoy.

Friday, March 25, 2011

No Spring Chicken

Last weekend was my birthday and with it the reminder that I am not getting any younger. Reflecting on life and age, I looked to staples I have in my life such as family, friends and my love of cooking. I also thought of culinary staples for the column and decided that roasting a chicken was a good process to describe as an essential for any home cook becoming more August. So using the “spring chicken”, which I am not, let’s roast a bird.

The easiest method to roast a chicken is to use salt, herbs and butter as a rub. I use about pound of butter (which is greater than most recipes but yields a delicious bird) brought to room temperature mixed with lots of salt, dried thyme, pepper and lemon zest. You can incorporate any herbs and spices you like for a more specific flavor profile but I think simple is best. The butter mixture is used as a rub to massage the entire chicken; under the skin, over the skin and in the cavity of the bird. But before we can give the chicken a nice butter massage, we must first prepare it for use.

This is the most daunting aspect of a roast chicken but goes quickly after some practice. Begin with a completely clean and clear, non-porous, work surface close to the sink. Open the chicken package from the drumstick side in the sink. Turn on the cold water to a medium stream so it does not splash around the outer sink area. I have larger hands so grab the chicken by both drumsticks with one hand while I pull away the packaging with the other. Remove the giblet package from the chicken with your free hand and begin to rinse the bird thoroughly inside and out. Use paper towels to pat down the chicken with your free hand using as many as necessary to completely dry the bird inside and out then place on the work surface.

Although not necessary, I like to smooth butter underneath the skin as well as on top of it which ensures very moist meat. Being careful not to tear the skin, gently insert the handle of a spoon (or your finger) underneath the skin of the breast at the neck end and slide it back and forth breaking the seal between the two. Slide a tablespoon of the softened butter mixture under the skin of each side of the breast and massage it evenly under the surface. Repeat the process with the chicken thighs and legs using ½ tablespoon beneath the skin. The remaining butter can now be massaged on the outer surface of the bird thoroughly and evenly.

The last step in preparing the bird is stuffing and trussing. I recently watched an episode of the French Chef with Julia Child where she binds the bird like something out of an S&M movie then spanks it on the ass (no joke) which I assure you is unnecessary. First stuff the cavity of the bird with roughly chopped aromatics such as carrot, onion and celery. Take the small wing tips and bend them so that they are tucked underneath the neck end of the bird. Lastly, using kitchen twine, tie the legs as taunt to the body as possible crossing them at the ankle like a lady. You can spank the bird now if you wish but will not add anything to the flavor.

Once prepared for the oven, roasting the bird is easy. There are a couple choice methods I use depending on the size and my mood: The chicken can be placed on a flat rack in a shallow pan and cooked with little basting and one 180 degree turn half way through cooking. If you do not have a flat rack, a single layer of thickly chopped carrots and onions tossed in oil will do the trick. For a more evenly browned bird, place it in a V-rack and roast it in a deeper pan. I start with the bird on its side and rotate it 3 times until it is breast side up where it will finish roasting, registering an internal leg temperature of 175 degrees when done. If you find the bird to be browning too quickly, a loose aluminum foil tent will protect the skin as the meat finishes off.

Each year my birthday gets easier and easier to manage as will the roasted chicken with practice; yielding a wonderfully browned specimen speckled with spots of seasoning and juicy, flavorful meat. Perhaps I’ll start to massage myself with butter to secure my suppleness after being bound and smacked on the bottom to celebrate the next year of my life. So with Julia Child in mind, I bit you farewell with, “Bon Appetit”.


Simple Roasted Chicken:

Preheat the oven to 425 degrees and move the top rack to center.

Aside mix together:

6 tablespoons softened butter and one teaspoon each of:

kosher salt

freshly ground black pepper

dried thyme

lemon zest

Prepare one whole chicken (4-5 pounds) as described in the column, being sure any excess fat is pulled away from the neck cavity. Under each side of the breast skin, smooth one tablespoon of the butter mixture. Smooth ½ tablespoon under each thigh and leg. Sprinkle the chicken with a scant amount of salt and pepper, inside and out, and rub down with the remaining butter mixture Fill the cavity of the bird with unpeeled onion quarters, some thickly chopped carrot, two (optional) lemon quarter and some small celery stalks. Truss and place on a flat rack (or layer of thick cut onions and carrot) in a roasting pan and roast for 45 minutes. Rotate the pan 180 degrees and continue to roast for an additional 30-45 minutes periodically checking the browning of the skin. If the skin is becoming too brown, use a piece of tinfoil to loosely cover the breast cinching it to the sides of the roasting pan so it is not in direct contact.

Take the temperature of the chicken in the thickest part of the thigh after the last 30 minutes. The chicken is done when the temperature registers 175 degrees (cooking times will have to be adjusted for larger or smaller birds). Allow the chicken to sit covered for 15. The internal temperature will rise 10 degrease out of the oven and the juices will evenly redistribute through the meat.

Carve the chicken and serve with your favorite starch and vegetable. I prefer roasted potatoes that I throw in the oven with the bird the last 30 minutes and some pan sautéed zucchinis.

Friday, March 18, 2011

Green Thumbs are in Fashion this Spring: published 03/17/2011

Form vs. Function seems to be an omnipresent choice in my world: shoes, clothes, kitchen organization…vegetable planting. With spring next week, I will face a new wealth of these choices; a whole quarter of my closet to choose from again, spring cleaning, organizing and what kind of vegetables I will grow. Of all these choices, I have come to find that vegetable planting (like Ikea) can be a perfect marriage of both form and function.

I did not always think that the last statement could be true. In Massachusetts, we always had a vegetable garden but it wasn’t always the prettiest thing to look at. It wasn’t until the Spring of 2009, when I initiated an urban raised-bed garden on the back patio of California Cuisine, that I became painstakingly aware that an edible garden could (and in this case HAD TO) be aesthetically pleasing. We called it the “Avant-Garden” and by careful planning, diligent maintenance and 300+ ft3 of soil grew over 20 different types of vegetables.

Not everyone will have the space, time or desire to command such an intensive feat and I’d prefer you forego the leggy-herb garden and topsy-turvy upside down planters of past seasons. Instead, this year, try planting some simple, ornamental, edible, and container friendly vegetables combined for beauty while producing edible goods. The components are simple: a well designed container, soil, sunlight, plants and minimal care.

I prefer square containers made of redwood (plastic works too), at least 12” x 12” x 12” (any dimension larger is fine) having adequate drainage holes. One in the middle does not cut it; they need to be evenly spaced over the bottom surface area. Line the bottom with chicken wire purchased and cut to size at the hardware store. Fill the bottom about 2” deep with river rocks that will facilitate drainage. Lastly, fill the pot with pre-fertilized “vegetable” potting soil to just beneath the rim. These types of containers are ideal for larger, fruit bearing vegetables such as eggplants and tomatoes.

I go to the Hillcrest Farmer’s market to buy starter vegetables for planting. The growers are very knowledgeable and will tell you precisely what kind of light and soil the plants need. I prefer to grow vegetables that require full to medium sun to make my life easier. For small-apartment container gardening, I find that the most visually stimulating and easy to maintain are a combination of Malabar spinach, Asian varieties of eggplant and red-chard.

Malabar spinach is not part of the spinach family but named so because of its similar taste and appearance. It produces beautiful deep purple berries during its life cycle and instead of growing close to the soil like traditional spinach, Malabar spinach grows as thin red vines and works very well up trellises. With time, the spinach will fill a square trellis (plant 3-4 equally spaced in the container described) and act as an edible border for a street or condo facing balcony. Sauté the Malabar spinach as you would any other dark green or serve raw in salads.

Asian varieties of eggplants are good patio plants not only because they don’t generally grow over 3’ tall but continually produce both flowers and small fruit throughout the season. Choosing multiple heirloom varieties for several different containers provides the growing space color diversity without the hassle of different growing conditions. Be sure to pick the fruit when it has reached three-quarters its full maturity to encourage new flower growth and provide you with the main ingredient for the included recipe.

Red-chard can be planted alone in a slightly smaller container than the one described or as a border for either the Malabar spinach or eggplant. The chard will use the top soil while the larger plants root deeper, called underplanting, utilizing all the soils nutrients. The red-chard produces very dramatic red stalks against its dark green leaves filling in the perimeter of the planting container in a very short period of time. Once mature (about 10” long leaves) cut the chard 4” above the soil and it will grow back multiple times throughout the growing season.

As with all plants, they will only grow as well as they are provided for, please do not neglect watering them. In the heat of the summer, patio vegetable plants will probably need to be watered daily before the heat of the noon sun. Stick your finger deep down there. If the soil is dry more than 4” below the surface, its time to spray ‘em down. Water the soil until it is completely saturated and water is draining from the bottom holes.

While choosing to till the soil, design an edible patio garden or wear white shoes before Memorial Day let’s keep in mind the balance of form and function. Looking for an equilibrium between the two in our lives and, perhaps, in ourselves during this time of new growth and emerging life.


Pan seared baby eggplant with herbed goat cheese spread:

With the mention of California Cuisine (1987-2009), I was reminded of this dish they served when I first started working there, under Chef Chris Walsh, in 1999. This is a simple derivation from memory to show off the true flavor of the small, sweeter eggplant.

For the eggplant:

Pre-heat an iron skillet over high heat.

Leaving the stem intact: carefully slice a baby eggplant lengthwise in 1/4” slices. Salt, pepper and oil the fruit being sure to coat all the exposed surfaces without breaking the stem. Fan out the eggplant and apply to the grill or skillet. Cook until the eggplant is darkened to golden brown. Turn the eggplant and cook until the same coloring is achieved. Set aside on an oven proof sheet and repeat with as many eggplants as desired. Transfer the eggplants to a 350° oven and warm until the fruit reaches the desired softness and temperature (approximately 5 minutes). Serve a whole eggplant per person with one heaping tablespoon of herbed goat cheese spread.

For the goat cheese spread (serves 6):

In a small bowl mix together:

5 ounces softened goat cheese at room temperature

2 teaspoons fresh chopped thyme

½ teaspoon lemon zest

1 garlic clove finely minced

2 teaspoons olive oil

¼ teaspoon salt (or to taste)

¼ teaspoon pepper

Thursday, March 10, 2011

Everything is going to pot: published 03/10/2011

The essence of a one-pot meal is that it is economical, dishwasher friendly and (if the recipe is right) brings people together. In this time of a subdued economy, the one-pot meal has brought my household savings and communion over the stove; both of which provide relief from what can otherwise be an unnerving time. So, with catharsis at stake, the choice of the pot in which the meal will be made is of utmost importance.

I bought my first Dutch oven in 2006 and have not stopped using it since. Aside from the sauté pans, this is the most used piece of equipment in my kitchen. I use it for sauces, risottos, soups, deep frying, browning meats, braising and even making rice. Its qualities are the same as those found in a cast iron skillet because beneath its shiny enameled exterior is in fact cast iron which conducts heat evenly; its temperature reduces little when contents are added and it can go from stove top to oven.

The Dutch oven wins out over the cast iron skillet because of its high sides and smooth surface. The former quality, allows for the one pot meal (where the skillet is good for only one dish really). It also utilizes quite a few cooking methods from start to finish. One can sauté aromatics, brown meat, deglaze the pot, then put a lid on it and move it to the oven where it will finish cooking with a slow braise. One of my favorite one-pot dishes (presented here) uses all these methods and has been repeated time and again by friends because of its ease in preparation and wealth of flavor.

The choice of a Dutch oven is easy, be sure it is made of cast iron and has a quality enamel seal. I have seen aluminum stock pots sold under the name of a Dutch oven so buyers beware! The other nuances of Dutch ovens are cost and design which are subject to the cooks pocketbook and preferences. Mine is an avocado green, 6 quart, Mario Batali Italian Essentials weighing in at 15.2 pounds and a price tag of $89.99. Also, the lid has self basting spikes which allow the steam to condense back into the pot during cooking. Both the lid and price is what won me over the Le Creuset which rings in at $230 sans the “basting” spikes.

Whichever Dutch oven you choose and recipes that are made in it, know that it will stand as a cornerstone of the kitchen; providing a place for food friends and family to commune. And during rough times, it is this that keeps my moral up and stomach full.

Chicken Bouillabaisse:
This recipe is derived from an Ina Garten recipe on The Barefoot Contessa and although these contents are not that of a traditional bouillabaisse, the recipe protocols are the same.

In a 6 quart Dutch oven over medium heat melt 2 tablespoons butter with 2 tablespoons olive oil. Increase heat to medium high and add in 6 chicken thighs (about 2 lbs) smooth side down. Brown the thighs on both sides (about 5 minutes per side) adjusting the heat as necessary, until golden brown and fond has formed on the bottom of the pot. Remove chicken thighs to a side plate, reduce heat to medium and add to the pot one large diced onion. Sauté the onions, stirring occasionally, until translucent and slightly golden (about 10 minutes). Add in 4 chopped cloves of garlic and continue to sauté 3 minutes.

Separate the contents and liquid from a 14.5 ounce can of diced tomato.

Add in the diced tomato and sauté over high heat until the tomato has darkened in color (less than 5 minutes) adjusting the heat so that the onions and garlic will not burn.

Deglaze the pan with ½ cup dry vermouth, releasing all brown bits from the bottom of the pot with a wooden spoon. Add in 14 ounces chicken stock, canned tomato liquid, ¼ teaspoon saffron threads, one tablespoon fresh thyme, and the zest of ¼ orange. Bring the liquid to a simmer; add back all the chicken thighs in a single layer being sure they are submerged (adding more chicken stock if necessary). Put the lid on the pot and transfer to the middle rack of a 375° oven. Bake for 45 minutes

In the meantime make a faux rouille and crostinis:

Mix together:
¼ cup mayonnaise
¼ cup sour cream
2 teaspoons lemon juice
2 minced cloves of garlic
½ teaspoon paprika
Salt and pepper to taste.

Cut ¼ to ½ inch slices (on the bias) of a French baguette. Arrange in a single layer on a baking sheet and paint (or drizzle) with olive oil. Set aside.

If you like a thicker stew, make a roux to add to the liquid:
Gently melt 2 tablespoons butter in a small sauté pan until the foam subsides. Add in 3 tablespoons flour and sauté over medium heat until just barely browned. Set aside.

Remove the dutch oven to the stove top uncovered. Adjust the heat so that the liquid is at a simmer, add in the roux and simmer until thickened.

Place the bread into the oven and bake until they reach the desired crispness (about 4-6 minutes for my liking).

To serve: remove a chicken thigh to a shallow bowl using thongs. Spoon bouillabaisse liquid over the chicken thigh and top (in the middle) with a tablespoon of the faux rouille. Place three crostinis on the side of the bowl and serve.