A much underused vegetable available local year round in San Diego is the artichoke. Initially, the prehistoric appearance is intimidating but once this column is read, will be as easy to prepare as a side dish of mashed potatoes.
The two most common types of the globe artichoke found in our markets are baby and adult. Baby artichokes can be steamed, sautéed, braised and fried after the outer leaves are removed exposing the bright green inner leaves. Adult artichokes require a little more work because of their size but give a far earthier flavor once steamed plain or stuffed.
Baby artichokes are eaten whole as long as cooked until very tender. The adult artichoke is a little more involved with respect to consumption: each of the outer leaves have a bit of “meat” on the base which is scraped off using your top teeth. A plain artichoke leaf can be dipped in butter or mayonnaise while a stuffed artichoke will distribute whichever flavors you chose for the filling.
Once all the leaves have been plucked and consumed of their “meat”, there remains the artichoke heart which is a bit like the prize at the bottom of a Cracker Jack box. The heart can be eaten whole with your fingers or cut with a fork and knife. Either way is a feeling of accomplishment but before get to the “heart” of the matter, the vegetable requires some preparation.
Cleaning the artichoke:
Once cut, the exposed surfaces of an artichoke will begin to oxidize, turning the flesh brown. Prevent the discoloration by having a bowl of cold, acidulated water close by; that is water that has had some lemon or vinegar mixed into it. Drop the artichokes in the water once they are cleaned or rub the surface with a halved lemon if they begin to brown too quickly.
Cut off the top ¼ of the artichoke using a serrated knife.
Snap back the outer most layers of leaves until you get to the very pale green ones.
Using kitchen shears, cut off any remaining hard, pointed tips from leaves.
Using a vegetable peeler or paring knife, shave off the outer layers of the base (and stem if still attached) until the softer flesh beneath is exposed.
For baby artichokes: cut in half length wise and remove any fuzz or purple leaves from the center. They are now ready to cook. For adult artichokes: invert the vegetable top down on your work surface. Gently push down in a circular motion spreading all the leaves away from the center. First pull out the purple leaves using your fingers as best you can then remove the remaining purple leaves and fuzz with a soup spoon or melon-baller.
I believe that the Jerusalem artichoke deserves a notable mention too. Also know as a Sunchoke, it is not an artichoke at all, instead a tuber from the sunflower family. It has a nutty-sweet flavor that is nice in salad and soups as well as numerous other applications. I bring it up here so that you may impress your friends by identifying this erroneous moniker the next time you are in the produce section.
Included here is a soup recipe using both globe and Jerusalem artichokes, giving an overall roundness to the flavor profile. Hurry up and prepare it before spring is here and hot soups are out.
Cream of Artichoke(s) Soup:
You will want to purchase 3 large globe artichokes with the longest stems you can find.
First squeeze the juice of ½ lemon into a large bowl of water and drop the lemon half in. Reserve the other half of the lemon to rub down all cut pieces of the artichoke and stem before dropping them into the acidulated water.
Working one at a time, cut off the stem of an artichoke. Using a vegetable peeler, strip away the outer layer of the stem until the pale core is exposed. Continue cleaning the artichoke as described in the column text. It is important to remove a bit more of the outer leave layers for this recipe so the soup will not be too fibrous. Here, cutting the artichoke into 8 wedges facilitates the removal of the purple leaves and remaining fuzz. Continue the process with the remaining two artichokes.
Peel ½ lbs of Jerusalem artichokes as you would a carrot and cut into ¼ inch pieces.
Using a 4-6 quart heavy pot or dutch oven, heat 2Tb butter and 2Tb olive oil over medium heat until the foam subsides. Add in:
½ c. diced onion
¼ c. diced celery stalks
and the Jerusalem artichoke pieces.
Sauté until tender (about 5 minutes)
Add in 1Tb chopped garlic and continue to sauté until the garlic is just golden (about 3 minutes)
Add in the trimmed artichoke wedges and stems drained from the acidulated water. Stir to coat all ingredients and add in a Tb more of oil if necessary. Continue to sauté until the Jerusalem artichokes are crisp and the globe artichoke pieces begin to slightly brown (an additional 5 minutes).
Add in ¾ c. dry vermouth, increase heat to medium high, release any browned bits from the bottom of the pot and reduce the volume by half (about 5 minutes).
Add in 4 c. of chicken stock (reference “stock”ing up at bobbyrpresents.blogspot.com) and simmer until the artichoke wedges are VERY tender which will take about 30 minutes. If you like a thicker soup, reduce the chicken stock volume to 3½ c.
Remove from the heat and puree the soup either in the pot with an immersion blender or in small batches using a counter blender being extremely cautious with the hot liquid.
Return the pot to medium heat and add in: 3/4 – 1c. heavy cream, depending on the consistency you like, plus salt and pepper to taste.
Thursday, January 27, 2011
Saturday, January 8, 2011
A Well Seasoned Veteran
While shopping for a cast-iron skillet, I found myself looking for the thickest bottom with the lowest weight (seriously). I now use this as a joke with respect to boyfriend shopping and luckily have found both, a perfect skillet and a perfect man.
What struck my interest to go after a cast-iron skillet? Maybe I was bored with my sauté pans or maybe I wanted to get back to basic, time-tested cookware. I definitely have enough pans in my kitchen and needed to asses the productivity this item would bestow. So, looking at the many things that I could do with the cast-iron, I was drawn by the overall usefulness and ubiquities this kitchen tool presents.
Aside from its simple yet elegant aesthetic, the cast-iron skillet is a kitchen work horse and a (personal) piece of nostalgia. It can be used to create almost everything in the kitchen that would otherwise require multiple pieces of cookware: Cornbread, soufflés, upside-down cakes, dumplings, seared meats and all things breakfast. The later item is where the nostalgia kicks in; growing up on a farm in Massachusetts, almost all our breakfasts were prepared in a cast-iron skillet. First, the bacon was cooked, rendering the fat that polymerizes with the metal surface, continually “seasoning” the pan. Then the eggs would be fried in the fat, spooning the residual grease over the tops of the eggs as to not have to flip them. It’s a wonder I did not grow up a fat kid.
Seasoning the pan is of much interest and importance to the maintenance and non-stick quality of the surface. Seasoning is nothing more than baking fat into the, otherwise, porous surface of the metal; creating a smooth coating that also prevents rust. This can be done by initially coating the pan with a thin layer of solid fat (I prefer bacon fat or lard but Crisco will work too), bake the pan upside down in a 350° oven with the windows open because it will smoke a little, for one hour.
Although purchased pre-seasoned and seasoned again at home, food materials have still been sticking to the pan mildly. This will subside after more time spent cooking fatty foods, the use of oil and proper cleaning. After use, I use water and a scrub brush to remove the residual food stuffs. After every use and gentle cleaning, rub the pan with a drizzle of olive oil and a pinch of coarse salt using a paper towel.
As mentioned before, when choosing a cast-iron skillet, you want to find one that has the thickest bottom but also the lowest weight. Although all are fairly heavy, one that is overly heavy can be cumbersome to a smaller cook when they need to swirl butter or even clean it. As for the bottom, the cast-iron skillet acts as an equilibrating liaison between the heat of the range and the food that you are cooking. The material itself conducts and holds heat, contributing an evenly heated work surface. The thicker the pan, the more heat it will hold, dropping fewer degrees in temperature when food is applied. I found a 12” Lodge Logic skillet at Crate and Barrel for $27.00 weighing in at 7.2 lbs with a bottom thickness of 5.5 millimeters.
With the greater amount of heat that the skillet will hold, it is important to adjust your cooking temperatures accordingly. This usually means using a lower heat for a longer time which will require a bit more patience. But any well seasoned veteran of the kitchen, like the cast-iron skillet, will persevere and withstand the test of time.
Cast-Iron Skillet Frittata with Bacon, Spinach and Parmesan:
Although my youth breakfasts were mostly fried or scrambled eggs, I now like to do something a bit fancier. The finished bubbling-browned frittata here is enough to feed eight people a conservative portion or a moderate breakfast/brunch (or even lunch) for six. I served it for some friends and my lover, with mimosas, when he was down for New Year’s weekend.
Pre heat broiler to low with the rack 6” from the heat source.
Heat a 10-12’ cast-iron skillet over medium-high and add in:
1 lbs bacon cut into ½ inch squares, stirring occasionally with a wooden spoon until just crisp. Remove with a slotted spoon and pour off all but ¼ c. of the fat. Reduce heat to medium-low, wait until the temperature drops, and sauté 3 minced cloves of garlic until barely golden*.
While cooking the bacon, rinse, remove stems and rough chop one large bunch of adult spinach.
In a separate bowl combine:
12 eggs
1 ½ c. half and half
¾ c. powdered parmesan cheese (picked through for lumps)
Small pinch of salt (the bacon will salt the dish greatly)
Tsp ground pepper
*Add in the spinach once the garlic is sautéed, turning over in the oil and cooking until barely wilted. Add in the egg mixture and the cooked bacon pieces, stir with the wooden spoon to combine and cook over medium heat until ¾ of the outer circumference is set (about 20 min.). Sprinkle the top of the frittata with ¼ - ½ c. thinly SHAVED parmesan cheese. Transfer the skillet to the broiler and allow to broil until the top is set and golden brown (about 7 min.). Allow to cool slightly before cutting it into slices like a pie. I served mine with some roasted fingerling potatoes, chopped parsley and sriracha hot chili sauce.
What struck my interest to go after a cast-iron skillet? Maybe I was bored with my sauté pans or maybe I wanted to get back to basic, time-tested cookware. I definitely have enough pans in my kitchen and needed to asses the productivity this item would bestow. So, looking at the many things that I could do with the cast-iron, I was drawn by the overall usefulness and ubiquities this kitchen tool presents.
Aside from its simple yet elegant aesthetic, the cast-iron skillet is a kitchen work horse and a (personal) piece of nostalgia. It can be used to create almost everything in the kitchen that would otherwise require multiple pieces of cookware: Cornbread, soufflés, upside-down cakes, dumplings, seared meats and all things breakfast. The later item is where the nostalgia kicks in; growing up on a farm in Massachusetts, almost all our breakfasts were prepared in a cast-iron skillet. First, the bacon was cooked, rendering the fat that polymerizes with the metal surface, continually “seasoning” the pan. Then the eggs would be fried in the fat, spooning the residual grease over the tops of the eggs as to not have to flip them. It’s a wonder I did not grow up a fat kid.
Seasoning the pan is of much interest and importance to the maintenance and non-stick quality of the surface. Seasoning is nothing more than baking fat into the, otherwise, porous surface of the metal; creating a smooth coating that also prevents rust. This can be done by initially coating the pan with a thin layer of solid fat (I prefer bacon fat or lard but Crisco will work too), bake the pan upside down in a 350° oven with the windows open because it will smoke a little, for one hour.
Although purchased pre-seasoned and seasoned again at home, food materials have still been sticking to the pan mildly. This will subside after more time spent cooking fatty foods, the use of oil and proper cleaning. After use, I use water and a scrub brush to remove the residual food stuffs. After every use and gentle cleaning, rub the pan with a drizzle of olive oil and a pinch of coarse salt using a paper towel.
As mentioned before, when choosing a cast-iron skillet, you want to find one that has the thickest bottom but also the lowest weight. Although all are fairly heavy, one that is overly heavy can be cumbersome to a smaller cook when they need to swirl butter or even clean it. As for the bottom, the cast-iron skillet acts as an equilibrating liaison between the heat of the range and the food that you are cooking. The material itself conducts and holds heat, contributing an evenly heated work surface. The thicker the pan, the more heat it will hold, dropping fewer degrees in temperature when food is applied. I found a 12” Lodge Logic skillet at Crate and Barrel for $27.00 weighing in at 7.2 lbs with a bottom thickness of 5.5 millimeters.
With the greater amount of heat that the skillet will hold, it is important to adjust your cooking temperatures accordingly. This usually means using a lower heat for a longer time which will require a bit more patience. But any well seasoned veteran of the kitchen, like the cast-iron skillet, will persevere and withstand the test of time.
Cast-Iron Skillet Frittata with Bacon, Spinach and Parmesan:
Although my youth breakfasts were mostly fried or scrambled eggs, I now like to do something a bit fancier. The finished bubbling-browned frittata here is enough to feed eight people a conservative portion or a moderate breakfast/brunch (or even lunch) for six. I served it for some friends and my lover, with mimosas, when he was down for New Year’s weekend.
Pre heat broiler to low with the rack 6” from the heat source.
Heat a 10-12’ cast-iron skillet over medium-high and add in:
1 lbs bacon cut into ½ inch squares, stirring occasionally with a wooden spoon until just crisp. Remove with a slotted spoon and pour off all but ¼ c. of the fat. Reduce heat to medium-low, wait until the temperature drops, and sauté 3 minced cloves of garlic until barely golden*.
While cooking the bacon, rinse, remove stems and rough chop one large bunch of adult spinach.
In a separate bowl combine:
12 eggs
1 ½ c. half and half
¾ c. powdered parmesan cheese (picked through for lumps)
Small pinch of salt (the bacon will salt the dish greatly)
Tsp ground pepper
*Add in the spinach once the garlic is sautéed, turning over in the oil and cooking until barely wilted. Add in the egg mixture and the cooked bacon pieces, stir with the wooden spoon to combine and cook over medium heat until ¾ of the outer circumference is set (about 20 min.). Sprinkle the top of the frittata with ¼ - ½ c. thinly SHAVED parmesan cheese. Transfer the skillet to the broiler and allow to broil until the top is set and golden brown (about 7 min.). Allow to cool slightly before cutting it into slices like a pie. I served mine with some roasted fingerling potatoes, chopped parsley and sriracha hot chili sauce.
Tuesday, January 4, 2011
Diet Rehab
The time period just after the turn of the year always cracks me up. Every food magazine boasting healthy recipes for 20XX, new exercise regimes at every turn, a spike in new or renewed gym memberships and an increased attendance at AA meetings. Of all these things, the tag line “Eat Better in 2011” on the cover of Bon Appetit reached out to me the most.
Eating better is not necessarily a complete change of your diet but can be an alteration of the diet one already eats; slowly incorporating subtle changes that are practical, plausible and tasty may be the key to fulfilling the goal. Instead of a 12 step program, to eat better one could, focus on ingredient quality, portions, and the environment in which the meals are eaten.
When was it that we forgot that the periphery of the supermarket is the best place to shop? If shoppers focus their basket contents to this region, it supplies fresher meat, breads, dairy and vegetables than the processed foods occupying the bulk of the center. And as a side note, processed foods boasting “low fat” will usually be higher in sugar than their regular counterpart.
There is a general theory called the French Paradox which presents the conundrum that, although French culture eats rich food high in fat, they have lower incidence of obesity and heart disease than Americans. The consensus is that the French eat less food more frequently and the food consumed is of better quality, less sugar and fewer processed ingredients. The easiest way to apply this to a diet is to include more vegetables and less meat and starch.
The inclusion of more vegetables to the plate immediately reduces the caloric intake and increases the nutritional content of the meal. Underused vegetables, easy to prepare and very good for the liver, are dark greens such as kale and chard. They can be braised in some stock or sautéed in oil with salt to substantiate the meal. An easy recipe is presented here in the side box.
Whether as a supplement or an addition to your diet, drinking juiced fruits and vegetables will increase the amounts of nutrients to your uptake naturally, foregoing supplements that may or may not be able to be absorbed by your body. And not all juicing requires a specialized fruit juicer. Many recipes that have a liquid base such as orange or pineapple juice can be easily made using a counter top or hand held immersion blender.
At the Farmer’s Market a guy sells juiced dark greens with whole apple and apple juice called GreenFix Organic Smoothie. The greens are Kale, Dandelion, Collard, Chard, Spinach, Romaine Lettuce, and Parsley. Also included are banana and Flax seed. I buy one 32 oz. bottle each Friday at the Mission Hills Farmers’ Market that lasts me the four days of its shelf life.
Eating on the go is probably one of the most deleterious habits to a healthy diet. When your mind is multitasking during food consumption, it is not free to asses your body’s doneness. When on the go, the only goal is to consume what you have in hand to fill you up; meaning, you will eat everything in front of you because that is the only goal. No enjoyment, no time spent for you. If you must eat on the go, use a homemade smoothie or the GreenFix from the farmers’ market to supply the necessary nutrition.
I suggest reading In Defense of Food by Michael Pollan as an easy to understand manifesto of how to eat better. It has greatly helped me understand and improve my eating habits as well as supply many wonderful references for further reading. I hope this column sees you well and all your resolutions are successful.
Braised Greens
One bunch of dark greens at the super market will be enough for three people. The only caveat to the greens is that they initially take up a lot of space in the pan until they are heated through and reduce in volume.
Run a knife down the sides of the greens’ stalks, separating the stalks from the leafy product.
Half the stalk lengthwise and run your knife down the stalk chopping ¼ inch thick pieces.
Roughly chop the greens and set aside.
In a large sauté pan heat 3Tb oil over a medium high heat until shimmering. Add the stalk pieces and sauté until tender, about 5 minutes.
Add in 2 minced cloves of garlic and sauté until slightly golden, about 2 minutes.
Add in ¼ c. of chicken or vegetable stock, turn heat to high and add the leafy greens. The greens will probably overflow over the sides of the pan but. Throw a lid over the greens and let sit undisturbed 3 minutes. Remove the lid, give a good turn with thongs and reduce the heat to medium low. Continue to braise until the leaves are wilted. Sprinkle with salt and pepper and serve.
Eating better is not necessarily a complete change of your diet but can be an alteration of the diet one already eats; slowly incorporating subtle changes that are practical, plausible and tasty may be the key to fulfilling the goal. Instead of a 12 step program, to eat better one could, focus on ingredient quality, portions, and the environment in which the meals are eaten.
When was it that we forgot that the periphery of the supermarket is the best place to shop? If shoppers focus their basket contents to this region, it supplies fresher meat, breads, dairy and vegetables than the processed foods occupying the bulk of the center. And as a side note, processed foods boasting “low fat” will usually be higher in sugar than their regular counterpart.
There is a general theory called the French Paradox which presents the conundrum that, although French culture eats rich food high in fat, they have lower incidence of obesity and heart disease than Americans. The consensus is that the French eat less food more frequently and the food consumed is of better quality, less sugar and fewer processed ingredients. The easiest way to apply this to a diet is to include more vegetables and less meat and starch.
The inclusion of more vegetables to the plate immediately reduces the caloric intake and increases the nutritional content of the meal. Underused vegetables, easy to prepare and very good for the liver, are dark greens such as kale and chard. They can be braised in some stock or sautéed in oil with salt to substantiate the meal. An easy recipe is presented here in the side box.
Whether as a supplement or an addition to your diet, drinking juiced fruits and vegetables will increase the amounts of nutrients to your uptake naturally, foregoing supplements that may or may not be able to be absorbed by your body. And not all juicing requires a specialized fruit juicer. Many recipes that have a liquid base such as orange or pineapple juice can be easily made using a counter top or hand held immersion blender.
At the Farmer’s Market a guy sells juiced dark greens with whole apple and apple juice called GreenFix Organic Smoothie. The greens are Kale, Dandelion, Collard, Chard, Spinach, Romaine Lettuce, and Parsley. Also included are banana and Flax seed. I buy one 32 oz. bottle each Friday at the Mission Hills Farmers’ Market that lasts me the four days of its shelf life.
Eating on the go is probably one of the most deleterious habits to a healthy diet. When your mind is multitasking during food consumption, it is not free to asses your body’s doneness. When on the go, the only goal is to consume what you have in hand to fill you up; meaning, you will eat everything in front of you because that is the only goal. No enjoyment, no time spent for you. If you must eat on the go, use a homemade smoothie or the GreenFix from the farmers’ market to supply the necessary nutrition.
I suggest reading In Defense of Food by Michael Pollan as an easy to understand manifesto of how to eat better. It has greatly helped me understand and improve my eating habits as well as supply many wonderful references for further reading. I hope this column sees you well and all your resolutions are successful.
Braised Greens
One bunch of dark greens at the super market will be enough for three people. The only caveat to the greens is that they initially take up a lot of space in the pan until they are heated through and reduce in volume.
Run a knife down the sides of the greens’ stalks, separating the stalks from the leafy product.
Half the stalk lengthwise and run your knife down the stalk chopping ¼ inch thick pieces.
Roughly chop the greens and set aside.
In a large sauté pan heat 3Tb oil over a medium high heat until shimmering. Add the stalk pieces and sauté until tender, about 5 minutes.
Add in 2 minced cloves of garlic and sauté until slightly golden, about 2 minutes.
Add in ¼ c. of chicken or vegetable stock, turn heat to high and add the leafy greens. The greens will probably overflow over the sides of the pan but. Throw a lid over the greens and let sit undisturbed 3 minutes. Remove the lid, give a good turn with thongs and reduce the heat to medium low. Continue to braise until the leaves are wilted. Sprinkle with salt and pepper and serve.
Wednesday, December 29, 2010
A = (3√3÷2) ∙s2
Before Mastering the Art of French Cooking, food terms such as coq au vin, boeuf bourguignon, mirepoix, pot-au-feu, or even crème brulee were as esoteric to Americans as the column title this week. After its boom in popularity for nearly four decades, classic French cuisine, and with it fine dining, have again fallen out of foodie vogue. Now appreciated by those with a specific interest and knowledge, newer generations stray away from establishments offering fantastic service and painstakingly rich-delicious fare. Quelle Dommage!
Walking south on 5Th after a cocktail at Number One on Fifth Avenue, watching the buildings slowly grow taller as downtown approached, my date and I found ourselves at Hexagone. Referring to the six sided shape of France whose surface area can be calculated using the formula in this column’s title, Hexagone presents an atmosphere and French fare that is both elegant and comforting: Fine dining service, rich pan sauces, and classic preparations presented beautifully on white plates against tables clad in starched white linen. Although not for everyone, I continually hear from friends that they miss the fine dining that our neighborhood(s) once possessed.
Located in Banker’s Hill, on the corner of 5th and Laurel, Hexagone’s “L” shaped layout provides guests two separate areas to enjoy. Dining in the immediate front room would feel a bit more personable with the bar and table proximity while the length that runs down the west side of 5th is more intimate and out of the way. This section seems the better choice for a large party to reserve for a function but an even better choice for a pair of lovers to enjoy dinner together if no large parties are around.
Sitting adjacent to one another on the banquet of a corner table, we began with bubbles. It struck me funny that I noticed how the Champagne matched the golden-beige window treatments that framed the windows facing the busy street. We enjoyed the bubbly and the conversation with our waiter as we discussed and decided on dinner.
To start, I had to have the veal sweetbreads. It is so infrequent to find them on any menu; I order them whenever I see them. These were served on a veal demi glaze topped with a very tender chantrelle and cremini mushroom ragout. The crisp exterior of the sweetbread hid the smooth texture of the meat beneath and was an amazing combo with the textured mushrooms and intense pan sauce. A welcome reprieve from the abundance of sissy starters that have gained foodie sex appeal but I guess there is always a time a place for everything.
The second course was a good buffer between the rich starter and the entrees. My date ordered a spinach salad with grilled shrimp, tomato, and hearts of palm. I felt it necessary to try the French onion soup, well, because I was in a French establishment. It was sweet and very cheesy as it usually is. Both were good but overshadowed by the flanking courses.
Our main courses were really well played. I ordered the special: A filet, rare, on a truffle demi, served with brussel sprout leaf and haricot vert salad, and roasted fingerling potatoes. My dinner companion had the lamb shank nicoise on a white bean cassoulet. I did not find out where they source their meats but both were incredible; the lamb in its flavor and the filet with its texture. I especially liked the side of brussel sprout leaf and haricot vert. The blanched leaves of a brussel sprout are a very uncommon accompaniment yet gave a great texture and bright flavor contrast to the otherwise deep demi glaze.
Our bubbly lasted through until the entrees where we both had a glass of Chateauneuf-du-Pape suggested by the bartendress. Stuffed, we did not choose to enjoy desert which is now to my chagrin. I have been dying to get back to Hexagone and try their Tarte Tatin (which is basically a caramelized upside down cake) if only to round out my experience at the restaurant.
Though no longer having much sex appeal to the common diner, yet infused in almost all Western food encounters, the tradition of French cuisine and the essentials of fine dinning will continue to be omnipresent in our American cuisine. So, after being pampered by the service and satiated with the food, I would say that Hexagone has the right equation.
A gift that keeps on giving: published 12/23/2010
Really, make this even for New Years!!!
We have many gifts that are not recognized as such because they do not posses a receipt or the gift tag reading “To: Suzy, Love: Santa”. This column is a gift from me to those of you who enjoy reading it and it is also a gift to me with respect to the enjoyment I get writing it. This is just the most blatant example, literally in front of our faces, but what of others? I don’t want to be too trite but good health, friends, the fact that its 80° as I’m writing this in December are all gifts I have right now.
I used to feel that homemade gifts were pretty hokey, especially food specific ones. As time goes on, I still think that there are ones that are hokey but there are ones that are truly well deserved. Take, for instance, a family traditional recipe: It is something that is time honored and appreciated by the giver and then passed on to the recipient who will hopefully like it as much as you and pass it on to someone else.
I like to bring a food or beverage item to a holiday party and give a handwritten recipe card as the physical gift. I have done this in the past with an Eggnog Recipe passed down to me from my grandmother. She said she had originally found it in a Home and Garden magazine in the ‘70’s and has been making it ever since. The side recipe has been adjusted from the original to fit my specifications of more brown booze and less cream but it is the spirit that is passed down with it.
Though very impressive and amazing in taste, a house made eggnog can be a bit daunting in its preparation. I was given a recipe a few years ago for an almond-chocolate liqueur that is far easier to execute and, unlike eggnog, will keep in the fridge up to two weeks so can be given as a present in addition to the handwritten recipe card. Simply combine the following ingredients, put in a sealed bottle, and attach a ribbon: 1c. Non-dairy creamer, 14 oz. condensed milk, 1 ¾c. Whisky, 2 Tb. quality chocolate syrup, tsp pure vanilla extract, tsp almond extract, tsp instant espresso dissolved in water.
House-Made Eggnog:
This recipe will serve 30 people conservatively. You will need a large container with a sealed lid. The use of milk and ½ and ½ instead of heavy cream makes this version lighter and easier to drink. It is very boozy but after the first few sips, goes down quick and smooth.
2 dozen eggs separated
It is very important here that no yolks get into the egg whites. I think the best way to separate the eggs is to simply use your hand and allow the whites to flow through the cracks between your fingers into a small bowl. You can then toss the yolks into a larger bowl and the collected whites too, as long as there is no yolk present in the smaller bowl.
Beat the egg yolk in a stand mixer with the paddle attachment on low until all the yolks have been broken.
Slowly add in:
4c. confectioner’s (powdered) sugar, then increase the speed to medium high. Beat the mixture until the yolks turn a pale yellow. About 7 minutes.
Aside, mix together:
1c. spiced rum
1c. peach schnapps
1c. amaretto
2c. bourbon
3c. brandy
6c. ½ and ½
8c. milk
Combine the liquid mixture with the egg mixture in a sealed container and steep, shaking every 30 minutes or so, for 2 hours.
Using the whisk attachment of the stand mixer, begin to beat the egg whites on low in a very clean bowl with a teaspoon of lemon juice. Once the whites have begun to froth, slowly increase the speed of the mixer until at medium high. Beat the whites to a stiff peak (meaning the whites hold a point that does not flop over if pulled up with the whisk).
Incorporate 1/3 of the beaten egg whites to the liquid mixture using a rubber spatula. Using a circular over hand motion, fold the whites into the liquid until completely combined. Then add in the remaining whites and continue to fold them into the liquid gently as not to deflate the stiff peaks.
Allow the mixture to sit for at least 12 hours.
The Eggnog will keep, tightly sealed, up to 4 days.
You Say Potato, I Say Vodka: published 12/02/2010
In the immortal words of The Nanny theme song, it was ”style and flair” that got Fran Drescher the gig as nanny in the Sheffield’s home. So too, with the addition of style and flair to a common house gathering, can get you the gig as all-star host or hostess (hopefully sans the nasal voice) of a kick ass Cocktail Party.
I have been a guest at, and have hosted, some pretty amazing cocktail parties over the years but I have been to some egregious ones too. So, as I was putting a cocktail party together last week for my best girlfriend’s birthday celebration, I found myself outlining the elements and essentials one needs to make (or break) the party. Though a small list: atmosphere, food, cocktail supplies, and guest choice, any one of these items chosen poorly will surely throw your party off kilter and each contains many subtopics for delineation, however there will be one string that can tie them all together and that is the cocktail party theme.
Now don’t go out and buy a bunch of tiki items for a “winter beach party” theme (unless you really want to). When I develop ideas for parties I usually lean toward more abstract elements such as color and texture. One of my Christmas cocktail parties was planned with purple ostrich feathers and gold leaf in mind. Another, “baby cheetah” and no I was not high. Other elements that are a bit more concrete could include: a music genre, artist, song, time period, or even a book. Regardless of the inspiration is the ultimate maintenance of the idea in atmosphere, food and libation making you the ultimate party dominatrix (insert sinister laugh here).
Atmosphere: I could never touch on all elements associated with atmosphere nor should I try here since it is a food column but there are certain things I feel are the easiest to manipulate and are essential for me. I like to have a lot of candles burning with minimal if not any artificial light (except in the kitchen). I personally prefer a more sedate music choice such as jazz or the newer “lounge” mixes. A silent visual on the television can also provide a subtle distraction. I invite a mix of people that I know won’t be awkward and will socialize well. They don’t necessarily all need to be acquainted, as it’s nice to meet new people, but I use my best judgment with respect to individual personality types. Lastly, it is important to specify attire. You do not want a shorts and flip flop clad guest to feel out of place in a room full of cocktail dresses. For the most recent party I played Nina Simone with Metropolis, silent on the television in a tea-light lit apartment full of people dressed “sophisticated”. Easy, simple and fun.
Food: While developing this portion of your cocktail menu it is important to think three tiered. The first being stationary food plate(s) coupled to hors d’oeuvres. Having stationary food allows the guests to nosh on their own accord when they first arrive and start to socialize. The hors d’oeuvres provide an elapsed food experience during the cocktail party time frame. The second is the ease in preparation; you will want most everything prepared in advance so that you can enjoy the party too. Lastly is food volume with respect to time. A cocktail party is not designed to provide a meal but keep in mind that if you plan to throw it at six, guests may not have eaten dinner and be hungrier than at cocktail party with an eight o’clock start time.
For my stationary plate, I usually choose a wedge of brie topped with warmed compote whose ingredients match the season served with a couple roasted heads of garlic (that will make the place smell GREAT by the way) and some toasted crostini and crackers. I chose to make a persimmon and cranberry compote for the most recent cocktail party. Other stationary items I like to make are: steamed heads of artichoke with a house made aioli (mayonnaise); a soup is a nice self serve item (it can be kept warm in a crockpot but be careful of spillage and color of soup with respect to the chosen evening attire!!!); terrines and pates are simple to eat but require a bit more pre-party preparation; lastly, a plate of assorted cured olives or crudités is a very simple stationary item and can be purchased from your local market’s olive and salad bar. However elaborate or simple you choose, the stationary food is now out of your site and mind so that you can focus on the hors d’oeuvres.
I think the most manageable amount of hors d’oeuvres to plan on is three. Selecting choices of meat, vegetable and fish base will cover the gamete of picky guests’ dietary restrictions and gives a nice variety to those that will eat every one. I usually plan to do two “rounds” of each hors d’oeuvres, staggered to last the first third or half of the projected party time frame. Of course there are hors d’oeuvres that can be prepared and assembled hours in advance, but I like to give myself something active to do during the party so I usually have all my items prepared and separated into their respective containers (this is called mise en place in French cooking) so that I can assemble them, quickly, during the party. The last hors d’oeuvres I did were: shrimp and fennel ceviche on endive spears, seared fillet on a crostini with arugula and aioli, and small servings of butternut squash bisque.
Depending on the theme and space, you can choose to tray pass or set out the hors d’oeuvres in strategic places so that all guests can access them from where they are currently located. The later requires more trays with less food on them to cover the whole area of the party where the former can be placed on one tray and distributed to all the guests by someone carrying it around (I usually choose to do this myself but you could always outsource to a willing friend). Of course, all this is assuming you have serving trays. If you do not, many things in the kitchen can suffice including a cutting board or cookie sheet lined with a linen napkin. Be creative and don’t forget to provide cocktail napkins (or a close facsimile thereof).
Cocktail: I prefer to have a signature cocktail served to everyone as they arrive. Guests can bring booze they prefer or even decline the cocktail (how gosh) but the initial distribution is fun and initiates that they are in the hands of a good host. Wine spritzers are a good choice for ease, budget and general (non) intoxication of the guests but are not the most fancy of beverages. I used one at the aforementioned birthday celebration that mixed gewürztraminer, green tea, ginger ale and peach schnapps.
If you have a friend who considers themselves a mixologist, solicit them for cocktail recipe advice. If they have come up with the cocktail recipe, then they may be eager to bartend at the party too. While developing the cocktail flavor, keep your foods in mind giving a profile that will maintain the mood. There are so many artesian Liqueurs on the market now that you may have difficulty choosing. Great Liqueurs I have used often are: Canton (ginger flavor), St. Germain (elderflower infused brandy), Benedictine, Chartreuse and Poma (pomegranate flavor). The nice thing about Liqueurs is that they are not the primary ingredient in a cocktail so, although the bottle might be expensive, you will have quite a bit left over for the next endeavor. Under used mixers such as ginger ale, lemonade, iced rooibos or green tea, or coconut milk can also dress up otherwise boring cocktail.
Once the ingredients are decided, you’ll need ice. ICE, ICE, Baby!!! Did I mention ice? I have been to so many parties, cocktail or not, where the ice has run out or wasn’t even there to begin with. Cocktails need ice, whether provided or brought by guests, so stock the freezer or cooler to the brim, store it in sink; I don’t care how just have lots of ice and then enjoy a libation to help loosen up after all that planning.
So you have the idea, the outfit and the friends but not the digs to supply your ultimate vision. Why not throw a “mock”tail party at a local lounge type establishment that can provide the food, drinks and ambience. I was at the Tractor Room recently enjoying some small plates and cocktails on the patio when this idea struck me. I love the lighting, music and ultimate feel of the whole place and on the corner of the patio is a table that seats four next to a raised table that seats two (with a heat lamp in between) which would accommodate six to eight people comfortably chatting while sitting and standing on a not too busy night.
The Tractor Room has an array of game meat inspired small plates and sharable entrees that can be snacked on while drinking cocktails ordered from a very elaborate menu. When I was there last, my companion and I shared the mushroom and chicken liver pate followed by a duo of pheasant and rabbit sausage skewers. I have enjoyed the pate many times before and was not disappointed this evening. The pate itself is sealed under clarified butter until you pierce the layer with your knife and get to the creamy, rich, mousse-like consistency served in a cast iron bowl. The pate has a few crostinis as a delivery service from plate to mouth and some caramelized shallot and tomato on top but what I enjoy most is the massive quarter loaf of artisan grilled bread that should be ripped apart by hand. Truly inspiring the “breaking of the bread” with friends.
The sausage skewers were equally satisfying, satiating a different degree of my inner foodie: both sausages had a qualifying texture and subtle difference to their gamey taste. I can only describe the rabbit as being more smoky and “dark” in flavor than the pheasant while both were complemented by a creamy gorgonzola cheese and a roasted tomato confit on the plate. The skewers were also accompanied by polenta croutons that gave a contrast in texture to the tender meats and soft cheese-tomato mix.
From past visits, I have always liked their boar stew (can be made with buffalo as well), beef tenderloin skewers, and salmon served on a cedar plank. I think my preferred cocktail has left the menu but they were happy to reproduce it for me on my last visit. It is made with gin, dry vermouth, green chartreuse and a thyme sprig shaken then strained in a martini glass.
After the last cocktail party, Thanksgiving and Christmas around the corner, I probably won’t be planning another party chez moi for a while. But I’m sure I’ll find myself at the Tractor Room with more friends soon for an impromptu “mock”tail party to ease the holiday bustle with amazing cocktails, company, atmosphere and food.
Roasted Garlic
So simple and so delicious. Make this recipe to serve alone on toast points or as a side to a cheese plate. For 12 people:
Cut the tops off of 4 heads of garlic keeping the head intact while removing any excess paper.
Place each head of garlic on an aluminum foil square, drizzle with a tablespoon of oil and 1/8 teaspoon salt.
Wrap seal each aluminum square by simply squeezing together at the top making a little packet of each head.
Place directly on the upper over rack and place a tray on the lower to catch any dippings.
Roast garlic 45 minutes at 450° then let cool.
Serve warm with thinly sliced baguette rounds that have been drizzled with olive oil, sprinkled with salt and toasted in the oven for about 10 minutes.
Leftover-Makeover: published 11/25/2010
With the amounts of people that come over to my place for the holiday and the prerequisite that all bring Tupperware with them, the only thing usually left over is a hangover and the need for some nerve pills. But I’m not like everyone, and I’m here to address what to do with your leftovers instead of the usual (and delicious) ultra layered manwich of turkey, stuffing, mashed potato, cranberry sauce, and gravy. I mean, let’s face it, leftovers are boring (especially Thanksgiving Day leftovers). But I know what’s not boring, a makeover. So here, let’s try to give these homely refrigerator rejects a new image, bringing them to brilliant from the banal.
Let’s start at the beginning: Prepared at the abode while listening to Christmas music (a family tradition I cannot do without), was an orange-mustard and apple cider basted turkey, apple-walnut stuffing, chestnut and cauliflower gratin, a house made green bean casserole (cream of mushroom soup from scratch atop sautéed green beans and topped with frizzled leeks), a roasted vegetable stew (baked in a sweet pumpkin), whipped yams, and lastly pumpkin, apple and pecan pie. All these items are now staples on my holiday table yet all began as foodie experiments over the years. Now, yearly, cooking with my best friend in the kitchen, we focus on “our” traditional menu items while never ruling out a new dish or different preparation to an existing. As with this article, perhaps you will find a new tradition by experimenting with the thoughts and recipes included. I don’t want to leave anything out here, so also on the table brought in by friends were: two roasted ducks, garlic mashed potatoes, brussel sprouts with lardon (fatty bacon pieces), caramelized shallot-cranberry sauce and a bourbon-spiked mulled apple cider. Jealous much? So, who cares what was on my table? What was on your table? I will assume, at the very least, you have leftover turkey, mashed potatoes, yams, and stuffing.
A complete makeover requires more than just what you have in the closet and makeup bag. Too, with a Thanksgiving leftover-makeover, you might have to purchase some items that are not in your cupboards and look toward The Joy of Cooking for some inspiration. The turkey will lend itself nicely to a variety of dishes: Soups and stews such as Tortilla, Turkey Vegetable, and Mole; creamed turkey is the base for multiple recipes including tetrazzini, a la king, pot pies, and casseroles; the turkey can also be used as the content for a derivation of the shepherd’s pie that also utilizes those mashed potatoes as the topping; or more interestingly, used in a fall inspired spring roll which sounds a bit oxymoronic but could be wonderful with some roasted carrot slivers, cabbage, green onion and a soy-cranberry dipping sauce (thanks to Chef Todd Atcheson of California Cuisine Catering for this idea). With all the ideas included in this article, thoughtful adjustments may have to be applied depending on your ingredient list and preparation.
My suggestion for the yams leans more avant garde: I think that a sweet potato (sounds better than “yam”) ice cream is both intriguing and ingenuitive. Because the leftover yams are already spiced and partially sweetened, the only thing left to do is incorporate some dairy and egg yolks then apply the mixture to your ice cream spinner. This recipe is based on using whipped yams (If you have baked yam wedges, you will need to puree them before use). First: puree 1.5c. whipped yams and ½c. whole milk using a food processor, stand or immersion blender (the latter is the most convenient). Then, in a sauce pan, combine: 2c. heavy cream, 1c. whole milk, ¾c. light brown sugar and heat over medium, stirring occasionally until sugar has dissolved and the liquid is hot. Slowly pour 1c. of the hot liquid into a side bowl containing 5 beaten egg yolks, whisking constantly. Slowly add the egg yolk mixture back to the hot liquid and cook, stirring constantly, until the mixture has thickened and coats the back of the spoon (about 8 minutes). Never let the mixture come to a boil, this will curdle the yolks. Strain the mixture through a sieve and incorporate the sweet potato/milk puree. Chill until the mixture is just above freezing. Apply to the ice cream spinner per manufacturer’s instructions then harden in the freezer at least 6 hours. Ice cream can be served alone, with candied pecans or caramel (or both) on top, or a small scoop as the garnish on a butternut squash soup.
Albeit not as interesting or technically difficult to execute as the above ice cream, I think my idea for the leftover stuffing makeover is the real winner here and the most user friendly, so Bobby R. presents (drum roll, drum roll, fanfare): An Ultimate Savory Bread Pudding. A bread pudding utilizes two very easy ingredients: stale or dry breads and a custard mix. After it has sat on the dinner table, the counter, then stored in the fridge, I’m assuming that your leftover stuffing will be pretty dry and hopefully you still have some eggs and dairy left over in the fridge. I like to make savory bread puddings for a few reasons, the first being that they are wicked easy to prepare and easily feed a small crowd. You can (thoughtfully) incorporate a slew of items that you might have laying around the counter, fridge or pantry that include but are not limited to: dry mustard, herbs, Tabasco, Dijon, tomatoes, fennel, artichoke hearts, cooked bacon, or even left over (raw) greens such as spinach, arugula or kale. My only caution with using leftover stuffing in the bread pudding is with respect to what kind you have made. A turkey giblet and oyster stuffing bread pudding does not sound as appealing as one made with sausage and caramelized fennel. But hey, whatever floats your boat, right? Depending on how much stuffing you have left over, you may have to substantiate the bread content with a stale baguette or rolls (whether left over from dinner or purchased). If using purchased bread, dry it out (sliced) in the oven on 250° for about 20 minutes. You could also adjust the recipe to the amount of stuffing you have with your choice of baking dish. Here, I choose a deep Corning ware that could very well be swapped out for a 9”x 14” x 3” Pyrex. Use the recipe below as a guide to the amount of custard you will need with respect to bread when adjusting it to your specific needs.
Realistically, the above recipes sound good in theory but not in practice. The last thing I want after Thanksgiving is a heavy meal and the leftovers will keep until Sunday brunch (or Monday, if in industry) chez vous. So, let’s take Friday and Saturday off, get out of the neighborhood, do a little shopping, a light lunch, nice dinner and some drinks to help that hangover wane. Let’s start in Ocean Beach, looking for nick-knack like items at any of the antique stores or get your pot-head friend a bong or patchouli at The Black followed up with oyster shooters, fried baby octopus and a bloody mary at South Beach Bar and Grill. Jaunt just east on the 8 freeway to Fashion Valley mall where you can get in a good game of “elbow granny” within the crowd. Sneak away to Bing Crosby’s and enjoy a martini with their Steak Tartar and Baby Spinach Salad. End the day in Downtown visiting the Levis Store at Horton Plaza and Urban Outfitters on 5th and G St., catch a quick film across the street at The Reading Cinemas Gaslamp 15, followed by a nice dinner over at Confidential on 4th and E St. or the new Searsucker Restaurant, as reviewed in last weeks dining section, on 5th and Market.
Whatever you choose to do, at the very least, I hope you are off the couch and away from the Food Network’s “leftover” themed lineup, shedding some of the calories and anxiety either out in the city or active in the kitchen. At the end of the day (here, that day being Thanksgiving), I try to relish in the nostalgia of past traditions and excite myself with the idea that I might be building a new tradition while this is being read. Cheer’s to the beginning of the holiday season, however it might be celebrated.
Made-Over Thanksgiving Stuffing Bread Pudding
For the custard mixture, combine:
5 eggs
2 ½ c. half and half
1/3 c. honey
(The following ingredients are variable with respect to your stuffing’s flavor profile):
2 tsp orange zest
2 tsp Dijon
10 dashes of Tabasco
1 ½ tsp pure vanilla
¼ c. grated parmesan cheese
Combine all ingredients using a whisk
Using a serrated knife, cut a challah loaf (available Fridays at Bread and Cie or the gay Ralph’s) width wise into ½” slices. Line the sides first then bottom of a 2.5 qt. round or oval baking dish. Cube the remaining challah slices and mix into your leftover stuffing for a 50:50 ratio providing enough to fill the remainder of the baking dish. Pour the custard mixture over the bread. Using clean hands, press down on the contents to release the air from the challah bread. Fill the baking dish to the top with the custard mixture and let set for 15 minutes to one hour. Bake the bread pudding on the middle rack of the oven at 350° for one hour (or until the top is puffed and golden brown). Allow to cool 15 minutes and top with a drizzle of maple syrup before serving. If you were not lucky enough to pick up a challah loaf, a baguette or rolls will do in a pinch.
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