Bold and Beautiful: published 05/17/2011

Whether you chose to plant in early March or have been anticipating their arrival in the markets, heirloom tomatoes are beginning to peek their misshapen; bulbous little heads out at us all over town. Almost grotesque in their beauty of multicolored stripes, smoky purple hues and vibrant greens and yellows, these amazing fruits’ quantity will only multiply as the summer ensues, much like the asexual reproduction of adding water to a gremlin. But unlike the gremlin, the addition of bright light (and the beautiful weather we have been having) will only increase the prosperity of these adorable little monsters.

Heirloom varieties of fruits and vegetables traditionally refer to specific genetically evolved characteristics within the family that distinguish them from their cousins such as specific disease resistance, flavor, color and shape. Aside from the most commonly sold tomatoes are heirloom varieties of eggplant, squashes, and even radishes or beets to name a few. As the heirloom’s popularity has increased recently, the criteria for classification has become inversely proportional; allowing varieties whose phenotyope might suggest an heirloom quality to be called so while the genotype begs to differ. But who cares really except for the most orthodox of fruit and vegetable enthusiasts, if it looks cool and tastes good, nobody’s getting hurt and probably isn’t the wiser.

My focus is on heirloom tomatoes because they are the first to appear, are the most diverse and continually present throughout the season. When ripe, the tomatoes have subtle flavor differences from each other and an apparent sweetness that is lacking in the more traditional Roma or Vine Ripe sold the year through. The best way to find out the differences is to simply taste them yourself, raw with a sprinkle of salt to cut the acidity. You will soon be an expert at differentiating between the Cherokee Purple, Yellow Brandywine, Green Zebra or Moskvich varieties.

Heirlooms are also cultivated as cherry-sized tomatoes. Trader Joe’s has a great variety pack right now sold for $3.00 a pint that I use for the included recipe. The variety pack is nice because it distributes a far greater spectrum of color and more flavors than using slices of the larger varieties and often is less expensive per pound.

These aesthetic beauties will dress up any of the traditional dishes you would have otherwise used raw red tomatoes for such as a Caprese or House salad, but why not go further into more elaborate preparations that will show off both the beauty of the ingredients and the inventiveness of the cook. One such idea is using the basic flavor profile of a Caprese salad and making it into an heirloom tomato tart with pesto and mozzarella. Use a pre-bought 9 inch pie shell and bake as directed after cracking black pepper on the bottom, take ¾ pound thinly sliced mozzarella, ½ cup pesto and 2 pounds sliced mixed heirloom tomatoes that have been separated into thirds and layer evenly to build the tart which is then eaten room temperature. You could even pour an egg and cream mix over the tart and bake it as a quiche!!!

Other ideas include pureeing the tomatoes and adding them to a bloody mary mix or hollowing the tomato into a cup and baking it filled with a summer vegetable succotash. I went a step further with the tomato, deciding I wanted to turn it into a dessert. Usually made with stone fruits, a tarte tartin is a traditional French dessert that would be the equivalent of a caramelized upside down tart. Since stone fruits will not be available until the fall and I love a tarte tatin, I have developed the included recipe using the traditional technique of caramelizing fruit with sugar and butter but substitute heirloom tomatoes as the star ingredient.

Dressing yourself and your dishes up in color this summer provides all witnesses with a sense of levity, confidence and charisma. Although the look of Southern Californians may be perceived as homogenous, we know that we are all as different on the inside as the heirloom tomato boasts on the outside. Being bold is what nature intended so I plan to follow suit inside and out.

Heirloom Tomato Tarte Tatin:

I had really bad luck using ceramic ramekins while testing this recipe. Instead, I swapped to a 6 ounce pyrex soufflé cup that browned evenly, allowed me to see that the bottom was not burning and gave a nice, domed dimension to the dessert.

Peirce the skin of 2 pints heirloom cherry tomatoes with a pairing knife. Squeeze the tomatoes with your fingers over the sink to get rid of the seeds.

Butter 6-6 ounce soufflé cups with ½ tablespoon butter each and sprinkle the bottom with a generous ½ teaspoon granulated sugar.

Divide the seeded tomatoes evenly between the soufflé cups, place in a baking pan, loosely cover with foil and bake at 350 degrees for 45 minute.

Remove the foil and press down on the tomatoes with the bottom of a glass or spoon to mold them into the cup. Bake uncovered for an additional hour.

Meanwhile, roll out enough pastry dough 1/8 inch thick and make 6-4 inch circles. Poke the circles with a fork and refrigerate.

Remove the soufflé cups from the oven and place the pastry rounds gently on top (they should overlap). Using a butter knife, tuck the sides of the dough down around the baked tomatoes.

Increase the temperature to 425 degrees and bake for 15 minutes until the pastry is golden.

Allow to sit for 10 minutes before running a knife around the edge and unmolding onto a plate. Serve warm with fresh made whipped cream and a half of a cherry tomato as a garnish.

Blossoming Into Quite the Pansy: published 05/05/2011

Growing up, every year for Mother’s Day I would go to the nursery with my grandmother and pick out potted flowers. There was a space reserved in the yard specifically for my mother and me to plant these gifts in, for lack of imagination as a toddler, her Mother’s day garden. The garden contained both annuals and perennials, any of which were chosen by me for their aesthetic alone. I look back fondly on this garden and recall that as I grew older, I became more aware of my choices and also ever more aware of my Mother’s unabashed love for these simple tokens from her son.

Recounting the varieties that were available early May in Massachusetts, it occurred to me that many of my colorful choices were ones that I see (and use) today as edible flowers: Johnny Jump Ups, Marigolds, Impatiens, Chrysanthemums, Geraniums, Snapdragons, Violets, and of course her gay son would also give Pansies. Other edible flowers were present outside of the garden in the yard such as the lilac tree I used to make forts in, the squash blossoms in the garden, the apple blossoms in the orchard and the rose bushes my grandmother planted in the front of the house. It wasn’t until my early 20’s, 3000 miles away from home, that I realized the abundance of, otherwise, underused flora at my disposal.

Of course there are a few flowers used regularly in the American diet that are probably overlooked such as the chamomile flowers in herbal teas, the dried lavender contained in that bottle of “herbs de provence” and (more specific to southern CA) the hibiscus flowers used to make jamaica. Also, there is that bottle of rose water in the back of your pantry, found in any supermarkets’ international isle, which you purchased for an endeavor you’re still unsure of. But common now, too, is the small rectangular plastic package containing a variety of the edible flowers I had planted in my Mum’s garden, tucked away to the far left of all the other pre-packaged herbs.

The most straight forward uses for the package of assorted flowers would be to toss into a light spring salad or use as a garnish on any of your dishes for color (especially dessert). But once you start to separate the package and identify its contents and do some internet research, more specific uses will open up. Dried flowers with strong flavors such as the nasturtium, marigold and lavender are wonderful for infusing simple syrups that can be added to cocktails or plain sparkling water. I also like to use these dried flowers to infuse desserts with a cream base such as the recipe included or another of my all time favorites; squash-blossom crème brulee. More sturdy petals such as the rose or violet can be candied at home or purchased candied from specialty food shops.

The most important thing about purchasing and using edible flowers (fresh or dried) is that they are 100% organic. Flowers will hold pesticides in their petals that cannot be washed out so be sure to ask the counter clerk, florist, or farmer’s market vendor before making your selection. Another good rule of thumb: never put anything on a plate that is not edible! This may seem too straight forward a tip but I just wanted to put it out there; it should be assumed that anything put in front of me with a fork in hand will go into my mouth.

I miss my Mother often and the garden we shared so long ago but comforted with my memories every time I enjoy the edible flowers we had planted together. I’ll probably send her some inedible flowers to brighten up her New England day while I enjoy the warmth of our amazing climate. I encourage you to explore other uses for flowers, to call your Mum, to have your cake and eat it with flowers too.

White Chocolate Lavender Mousse with white pepper short bread:

This recipe serves about 10 people but keeps well for up to a week so can be used later or given to a friend (or your mother). The white pepper shortbread delivers a nice flavor and texture contrast but can be omitted for ease. Instead combine the mousse in layers with macerated fruit creating a lovely foole/trifle dessert.

For the Mousse:

Bring ½ cups heavy cream to a simmer with 2 tablespoons of dried lavender. Reduce the heat to just below the simmer and steep the lavender until the desired flavor strength has been reached (about 7 minutes) then strain. Keep in mind that the flavor will be diluted once the recipe is finished.

In a metal bowl, pour the heated heavy cream over 12 ounces of white chocolate chips. Place the bowl over a pot of barely simmering water and stir occasionally until completely combined.

Dissolve 1 package of unflavored gelatin in 6 tablespoons hot water. Stir in the dissolved gelatin to the chocolate mixture until combined.

As the chocolate mixture cools slightly, whip to a stiff peak: 2 cups heavy cream and ¼ cup confectioner (powdered) sugar.

Fold in ¼ of the whipped cream to the tepid chocolate mix until combine. Very gently fold in the remainder of the whipped cream using a rubber spatula and an overhand motion as to not deflate the whipped cream but incorporating fully.

The best way to distribute the mousse is to place in pastry bags before it is allowed to chill but a storage bowl will do in a pinch and the mousse can be spooned out later.

Chill for at least 4 hours before serving.

For the shortbread:

With a large fork or pastry blender combine:

1 stick of butter at room temperature

¼ cup confectioner sugar

¼ teaspoon vanilla

2 teaspoons white pepper

1/8 teaspoon salt

Blend in 1 cup sifted flower until just mixed.

Roll out the dough between two pieces of parchment paper until 1/8 inch thick.

Remove the top sheet of parchment, prick generously with a fork, place the dough (still on the bottom parchment) on a cookie sheet and bake at 375 degrees for 15 minutes. The shortbread is done when the edges are golden brown and the center is still slightly soft.

Using a cookie cutter or knife, cut the shortbread into the desired shapes but do not remove until completely cooled. The shortbread will be pretty fragile.

To Serve:

Place the shortbread on a plate and pipe or, using two spoons, shape the mousse as desired onto the shortbread. Decorate the dessert with fresh fruit and top with a drizzle of warmed honey.

Swine and Dine: published 04/28/2011

There is an inherent fear of cooking white meats that I have gotten over long ago using a meat thermometer until I was completely comfortable estimating doneness by texture. Case in point the other day someone commented that the chicken I had served was very tender and delivered the comment not as a compliment but as a reservation to its doneness. Jeesh, give me a break! Pork, classified as the other white meat, is no exception to this skepticism.

Pork is less cooked in the home kitchen because it does not lend itself to being overlooked if overdone. Chickens in the market today are so plumped up with saline solutions etc., that even if overcooked are still edible with only relative dryness. Pork, on the other hand, when overcooked takes on an almost greenish-grey color and dries out so much that getting it down the hatch could be classified as a gastronomic Olympic sport.

The stigma is so great that it expands beyond the home kitchen and into the restaurant. In my years of restaurant service I have had to coax many-a-guest towards pork menu items, knowing they were delicious and prepared to perfection, that the guest was originally dismissive of (not to mention better than other options). I hope this coaxing broke the clients’ bubble of apprehension and allowed them to experience more of restaurants’ menus.

That is not to say that restaurants will not try to execute pork-centric dishes and fail. It is important to chat with your waiter about any dish you will order when dining out but even more important if leaning toward pork. Some restaurants will serve thick pork chops at medium rare, perfectly fine for consumption but a deal breaker for some. Any waiter should know all the ins and outs of every dish’s contents and preparation. If they are unsure of the final dish choose something different (or ask for a different waiter).

With pig on the brain and its execution on the line I found myself at Tre Porcellini in Hillcrest to see how they would fare against my humble opinion of pork preparation. Tre Porcellini, opened in late December 2010, translates to “three little pigs” and identifies as a modern Italian bistro. My first visit was in early January when I tried their (almost) eponymous dish, Trio Porcellini, featuring glazed pork belly, a pork chop milanese and a slice of slow roasted pork shoulder.

Pork belly is one of those underused cuts that have gained notoriety in recent foodie vogue. It contains two layers; the top is crisp and sweet from the oven roasted glaze while the bottom is fatty and filled with flavor that melts on the tongue to distribute its flavor to every taste bud. I have often hooked an otherwise apprehensive eater on this cut by tasting them on it without divulging what it was.

A Milanese style pork shop is thin, breaded and pan fried like my grandmother used to make and was the favorite of the table once we all began sampling each other’s dishes. The bread crumbing was light and allowed the true pork flavor from the chop to combine in a duo of texture and flavor. The dish provided me with comfort in each bite that was an apparently specific device of Chef Roberto Gerbino.

Gerbino was kind enough to share the recipe he uses for his slow roasted pork shoulder. A cut that is inexpensive and packed with flavor, otherwise known as pork butt, it can be cooked at home with relative ease and gain you approbation. Gerbino mixes 3 ounces each of salt and light brown sugar to rub the roast down. This is refrigerated for 12 hours then rubbed off before being sprinkled with coarsely ground pepper and pierced with a paring knife to insert slivers of fresh garlic. The roast is tied tight with kitchen string before slow roasted at 275 degrees for 5 hours. The internal temperature of the pork should register 155 degrees when done (the target temp is 165 but will raise 10 degrees after 15 minutes out of the oven).

During subsequent visits I found pork snuck into other dishes under esoteric guises such as speck (smoked prociutto) and guanciale (pork cheek) to name a few. Beyond pork, Tre Porcellini makes all of their pastas in house and sources local vendors for produce and breads. I have had the pleasure of tasting many items, all done to perfection that include: the “mac and cheese” risotto which is smoothed through with cheddar and parmigiano and finished off with truffle oil and champagne, the braised veal ravioli is flavored with a rich mushroom sauce and served with a marrow filled shank as an accoutrement. I wish I had enough room to go on and on but I think you get the gist.

While maneuvering the menu, pay special attention to items that have the pink pig next to them; they are classified as house specialties and you can taste the love. Aside from house specialties, Tre Porcellini offers discounted beer, wine and appetizers during happy hour daily from 4-7, lunch specials and pre-fixed dinner options. You can find Tre Porcellini at 1417 University Ave. (next to Baja Betty’s) and additional information on their website: treporcellini.net.

Whether a few experiments in the kitchen with pork roasts and a meat thermometer or a visit to Tre Porcellini; I think all you little wolves will be coming around to blow the doors in; throwing out (or making) reservations for pork.

Curing a Boring Menu: published 04/21/2011

Most Holidays I can think of encompass foods that are saturated in tradition whether it is familial, religious or secular. For me Easter encompasses all three, each lending a particular aspect to the annual brunch I throw. I also incorporate foods of another religious celebration because of the diversity and respect it contributes to the overall meal: Passover. This Jewish celebration of freedom from slavery normally falls close to Easter and is readily recognized but I feel it is less understood than the Easter story. I was originally going to write an Easter specific column but with the aforementioned thought, I thought I would outline Passover for the non-Jewish reader.

I am not Jewish nor am I an expert by any means but I have participated in about a dozen Seders and admire the passion and extreme wealth of ancestral brotherhood associated with it. A Seder is the name of the meal eaten at sundown on the first day of Passover and literally translates to “order” or “sequence” for good reason. During the meal, participants recount the story of Exodus through religious readings from the Haggadah and use specific foods on the Seder plate to symbolize different aspects of their troubles and ultimate freedom from Egyptian slavery.

In the story of Exodus, God sends ten plagues over Egypt to show his power and ultimate want for the freedom of the Jews. These plagues are recognizable in celluloid accounts of the End of Days (think locusts and frogs raining from the sky) and in fact the entire story of Exodus is portrayed again and again in films. The final and most extreme plague was the death of all the first born sons (which would include the pharaoh’s). The Jews were instructed to slaughter a spring lamb and smear the blood above their doors; indicating to the sweeping Angel of Death to “Passover” the abode, sparing the Jewish children.

Other aspects of the Exodus are presented on the Seder plate which can vary slightly depending on sect but maintain homogeneity in the symbolism: First, raw vegetables such as celery, parsley or endive are dipped into salt water that represents the tears cried during the enslavement; next is a lamb shank that is there representing the paschal lamb sacrificed to save their first born; a boiled egg is used to symbolize the mournful reminder of the destroyed temple; unleavened bread, or matzo (probably the most recognizable), shows the haste in which the Jews left Egypt allowing no time for their bread to rise; bitter herbs, such as horseradish, are eaten to remind the participants of the cruel and bitter treatment endured while enslaved; and lastly a mixture of fruit wine and nuts, called Haroset, resembles the mortar used while building the pyramids.

I have made a Haroset for a Seder and also use it as chutney for roasted lamb on Easter. I mix together 2/3 cups dried figs, 2/3 cups dried apricot, 1/3 cups pitted dates all finely chopped with 1 1/3 cups toasted-chopped walnuts and ¼ cup Manischewitz. I like to season the mixture to taste with cinnamon, cayenne and ginger and substitute a Riesling when making it for a non Seder fare.

Of course you cannot fill up on matzo and bitter herbs, so once the readings are over and remembrance is giving to the ancestral strife, it’s time to eat. Many aspects of the Seder plate can be incorporated into the Passover meal such as matzo ball soup, horseradish mashed potatoes, braised lamb shanks, or a parsley and endive salad. Another item frequently on the table and also present at my Easter is fish. I will normally poach a whole salmon and doll it up a la the ‘90’s but another (and much easier) option is to cure some salmon at home. I like to use roasted beets (included recipe) that stain the outer edge of the fish with a nice bright red that contrasts nicely with the pinkish-orange hue.

Whether Easter or Passover, Christmas or Hanukkah, or Kwanzaa for that matter; look to other cultures and religions for your meals’ inspiration. Food is argued to be the building blocks of cultural evolution and I can think of no better way to broaden your mind and pallet. Perhaps this Easter you might sneak in some Seder ingredients of your own.

Beet Cured Salmon:

This recipe will have to be pre planned as it takes 4 days to cure.

Dry Mix:

Combine:

¼ c. salt

¼ c. sugar

2 Tb crushed white peppercorns

Zest of: 2 lemons, 3 limes and 1 orange

Tsp curry

Aside: Roast 2 large beets wrapped in foil with olive oil at 450 degrees for 45 minutes. Cool, rub off the skins and finely grate.

Take a ½ inch thick, 3 pound, boneless salmon filet with the skin on and cut in half width-wise.

Apply the dry rub evenly to the flesh of both halves.

Place a single layer of fresh dill sprigs on one half of the flesh and place the other half on top so that the flesh of both halves are together.

In a pyrex, lay down enough plastic wrap that will cover the bottom and overlap the sides by about half the width of the pyrex.

Sprinkle ½ of the grated beet on the bottom, add the salmon, sprinkle the remaining beet on top and pour in ¼ c. vodka.

Wrap the fish tightly with the plastic wrap and weigh down with another pyrex filled with soup cans or a brick.

Refrigerate for 4 days and flip every 12 hours.

Once cured, rinse off all excess dry rub and dry the salmon.

To serve: slice the salmon thinly width-wise with some softened cream cheese and endive spears.

Hey Mary: published 04/07/2011

As a lighthouse guides a ship through the fog, so too does the idea of the Bloody Mary guide those through the fog of a hangover; out of their sleeping quarters and off to brunch. And I’m assuming after the White Party, Bloody Mary sales will be up and drinkers may even look like the scary legend of a tear, blood and makeup-smeared ghoulish woman peering back at you in the mirror of a darkened bathroom.

Bloody Mary’s come in all shapes and forms these days: made with bourbon, served with beef jerky, celery-salted rims, skewers of grilled shrimp. The derivations are many but the end results are the same, a drink that acts almost as a meal to those who might be a bit nauseous to the idea of solid foods. And depending on the ingredients chosen, this liquid meal is providing the nutritional requirements for stamina throughout the day. The recipe provided uses V8 juice which is loaded in vitamins and minerals.

But since everyone’s tastes differ all so slightly, if you are having a brunch at home, I like to have a build your own bloody Mary bar. I provide a moderately spiked and unassertive base-mix and also side bottles of the Mary mix contents and vegetables on the side. Specific items include but are not limited to: different types of hot sauce including Cholula, Tabasco and the smoked chipotle sauce from Trader Joe’s; other sauces and condiments such as Worcestershire, prepared horseradish and whole grain Dijon are good to have also. For the produce accoutrement I include pickled green beans, raw cucumbers, pickled cauliflower and carrots, celery and romaine hearts, olives, and wedges of lime and lemon.

For a Bloody Mary bar, be sure to provide plenty of ice and maybe even little signs for the vegetables. You could go further and make two or three different mixes for your guests to choose. Do not forget straws, cocktail napkins, a pepper mill and a dish of celery salt to rim the glasses if desired. And the most important thing, in my opinion, is having a shaker handy so that the Mary’s can easily be homogenized, versus the mess of trying to stir all those amazing ingredients with a straw.

I developed the recipe provided by having a bloody Mary tasting party. I invited over eight people on an early Sunday afternoon in 2006 and had pre-prepared four separate mixes. I made note cards with tasting notes; ascribing a 1-5 with respect to the heat, acidity, sweetness, salty, etc. and provided room for personal notes. This party was a hoot. I provided some of my favorite brunch fare and received the input to make the best Bloody Mary for all my friends at the next brunch gathering.

I hope you will all be safe while gallivanting around this weekend. Don’t forget to pre-fill those flasks, program the taxi cab numbers in your phone, and pre-set your alarm clock. And most importantly, don’t forget that a sick day taken the monday after the White Party may be regarded as an obvious hangover day. Have fun and enjoy your bloody’s.

Bob’s Ultimate Bloody Mary:

This bloody Mary mix is thicker than the usual but still quite drinkable. The recipe will serve about 20-25 people so reserve it for a party or scale it down for individual consumption. This is a hybrid of 4 separate recipes I tried and tasting notes from my friends. Be sure to let your guests know if you choose to pre-spike it.

4 cups V8 (I prefer the antioxidant variety if available)

4 cups Clamato Juice

Tablespoon prepared horseradish

2 teaspoons very finely grated onion

2 tablespoons Tabasco

4 tablespoons olive juice

2 juiced lemons

2 juiced limes

1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce

8 halved and chopped celery hearts

1 teaspoon celery salt

Homogenize the above ingredients with an immersion blender (or in batches using a counter blender)

Stir in 3 cups vodka

Serve with stalks of celery hearts and a celery-salted rim (if desired)